HELP!!! swirls after polishing

H

hngu7721

New member
This board had me hyped up to detail my fiancee's car this weekend, so after spending countless hours going through the suggestions, thought I had everything under control.



- Car is 2005 graphite blue Honda Accord with slight marring from car wash mittens. Only slight RIDS, nothing major



- Used 7424 with ORANGE LC pad (i also tride WHITE LC), but decided to stick with orange as it I'd heard it was more effective



Steps performed:

1. Wash

2. Clay w/ Blue Clay Magic

3. 7424 with Menzerna FPII and Orange LC

(i suspect this is where things went wrong. applied FPII to the pad in a "X" pattern and after distributing the polish to the panel ~18"x18" area, operated at speed 4 on PC. The polish seemed to break down OK, but I did notice that I'd worked it until it litterally disappeared; not much there to wipe off.)



4. KSG

5. Blitz



Everything looked GREAT at first, but it was cloudy/overcast in SOCAL this weekend so I really didn't get a chance to see the actual results until this morning! Now, there are swirls marks everywhere! I still don't know what could've possibly gone wrong, considering i followed the directions for using the polish to the T.



Any thoughts or suggestions as to how i can recover from this mishap? Anyone in the Long Beach/OC area willing to spend an hour showing me how to properly operate the 7424?



TIA
 
One thing to remember is the orange pad creates it's own micro abrasions and should be followed up with a less agressive pad...



So that is a contributing factor and you also may have overworked the polish to the point where you were dry buffing...



Another tip is to always work in well lit areas to inspect your work as you go...
 
Thanks for the thoughts.



Regarding "dry buffing"; what can i do to prevent this from happening in the future? Just how many times will i need to go back/forth on each panel prior to stopping and wiping off residue? I suspect my inability to gauge this is the contributing factor.
 
Good advice above. FWIW I probably would've worked at a higher speed on the PC as well. If you can follow up with FPII and a white pad, my guess is you'll remove the damage. Good luck...
 
hngu7721 said:
Thanks for the thoughts.



Regarding "dry buffing"; what can i do to prevent this from happening in the future? Just how many times will i need to go back/forth on each panel prior to stopping and wiping off residue? I suspect my inability to gauge this is the contributing factor.
Click to expand...



You definitely need another step after the orange pad. If you're Xing across the whole pad with Menzerna, I suspect you're using too much product as well. Breaking down that much polish with a PC had to take forever. You can always spray the pad with QD to prevent dry buffing, but this shouldn't be necessary for a PC with the right technique.
 
hngu7721 said:
Regarding "dry buffing"; what can i do to prevent this from happening in the future? Just how many times will i need to go back/forth on each panel prior to stopping and wiping off residue? I suspect my inability to gauge this is the contributing factor.
Click to expand...



Work smaller areas. You generally want to wipe the polish residue off while it's still a little wet; you only work it until the abrasives have broken down. But that shouldn't be a *huge* issue with the FPII because it's so gentle.



Try to determine if the marring is from misuse of the FPII or is *old* marring that you didn't get out. The FPII is a *VERY* gentle polish, and if you're using 6.5" pads with it you usually won't get much correction, so I'd sorta lean towards the latter explanation.



IMO the FPII and the orange pad are sorta mis-matched; the polish is too gentle or the pad is too aggressive, just not a combination I would use. I tend to use less aggressive pads even with *more* aggressive products, so IMO you need to use the FFPII with a polishing pad as your last polising step. And yeah, I *always* see an improvement when I follow an orange pad with something milder anyhow.



FWIW, I always work my polishes at speeds 5 or 6, and for any significant correction via PC I use 4" pads.



Try to determine if things are really OK *before* you apply the Klasse twins (which are pretty unforgiving of imperfect prep).



Oh, and Welcome to Autopia!
 
Accumulator, thx for the advice/suggstions.



I plan on reworking the car sometime this week and wanted to know if i can go straight to polishing. Do i need to prep the surface to remove the blitz/ksg?
 
toyotaguy said:
the polishing we will do will remove the wax you have on there, no need to do anything to it
Click to expand...



That's *usually* the case, but OTOH I've had situations where a healthy coat of KSG needed to be compromised before polishing would work well. When I tried to just polish through it, I got a tenacious residue that was a huge PIA to get off; when I IPAed it, no such problems. This doesn't happen all that often, but when it does- don't struggle with it, just use a solvent to make things easier.
 
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