Help-Lighting!

Horseman2475

New member
I am having a 30x30 steel garage built. How many fixtures? Flourescent bulbs, do I need?

Thanks, Gary. Also plug and light switches?
 
More than a few people, including myself are going to reply with something similar to "you can't have enough." Put as many as you are willing to pay for in the new garage. Possibly even think about installing some of the more exotic lighting that you get on road lighting lamps and gas stations. You can even think about putting lights on the walls to give more possible angles for viewing. 3-4 banks of flourescents, a few high wattage haolgens and a few high wattage incandescents should be enough for one car.
 
The rule I always use for flourescent lighting is 1 fixture per 10 square feet of ceiling (provided your ceiling is not taller than 15'). You want it nice and bright.



30x30 = 900sf / 10sf = 9 fixtures (48" double tube utility). Space them on 10' centers.



That might be slightly over kill. You could probably go with 6. But with only 4, I'm afraid you'd be working in the dark.



PS... If your ceiling is taller than 15', you'll need to suspend the lighting.
 
Neothin said:
More than a few people, including myself are going to reply with something similar to "you can't have enough." Put as many as you are willing to pay for in the new garage. Possibly even think about installing some of the more exotic lighting that you get on road lighting lamps and gas stations. You can even think about putting lights on the walls to give more possible angles for viewing. 3-4 banks of flourescents, a few high wattage haolgens and a few high wattage incandescents should be enough for one car.



Agreed, totally. You should have a wide variety of lighting options, as different types of light show different surface defects. And yeah, you can never have too much when it comes to lighting. You want it so bright in there that when you walk outside on a sunny day, you have to take OFF your sunglasses to see because it's so dark. :rofl OK maybe not....
 
One more vote for mixed lighting- get some some ceiling mounted high-wattage incandescents too. And definitely put some fluorescent tubes on the walls.



You *won't* have enough no matter what you do :D My setup was OK until I got LASIK, now I wish I had more...and I have a *lot* of lights. But I also have a high ceiling and didn't suspend the fluorescents due to aesthetic issues (I know, I know :o ).



Have *banks* of lights switched (not just all on/all off) so you have options as to which are on/off. I have a total of five switches for fluorescents and three for incandescents in a ~44'x44' shop.



Outlets- Have more than one circuit or you'll eventually plug in enough draw to blow breakers. Have GFIs since things'll get wet.
 
Accumulator said:
Outlets- Have more than one circuit or you'll eventually plug in enough draw to blow breakers. Have GFIs since things'll get wet.



Yeah good point. You also may want to have a couple 220v. outlets available if you ever decide to do any welding, or if you think you'll ever want to use an electric shop heater.



And speaking of heat, a hot water heater or supply line wouldn't be a bad idea, either. :chuckle:
 
You also may want to have a couple 220v. outlets available..



Yeah, *my* turn to say "good point" :D The higher voltage stuff totally slipped my mind! I have 220-240V for the dryer and compressor and one more untapped/roughed in just in case (the electrician wrote "welder" on the box, reading my mind). It's *so* much easier to do it during construction even if you don't think you'll need it. When I started shopping for a compressor I realized that the 240V models were the way to go.



And yeah, the more systems you can have "dedicated to garage duty" the better. Draining your house's hot water tank while washing a car isn't too swell.
 
Luster said:
That might be slightly over kill. You could probably go with 6. But with only 4, I'm afraid you'd be working in the dark.

I was just thinking having 4 directly over where the car will be parked. But like I said before, more won't hurt.



And about that hot water heater idea, that's great! You'll quick access to heated water for interior carpets, pad cleaning, etc. If you go that route you may even want to set the water temp higher than the normal multi-use water heater (which i think are set to 110). A drain in the floor would be a good idea also, but I don't know the building codes for these (I know accumulator had issues with his contractor when he wanted to put a floor drain in).
 
Neothin said:
I know accumulator had issues with his contractor when he wanted to put a floor drain in.



Actually, that was one thing I *didn't* have issues with :D Especially when I specified the oil separator like they use in commercial garages, everything went great- the contractor got a bit more work and the zoning board and building inspector were pleasantly impressed with my ecological consciousness.



I have small floor drains in the garage bath and by the compressor and a long trench-type drain down the middle of the shop. A cleanout at the end of the trench and a manhole for access to the separator (which I won't need in this lifetime).



The big thing is to think of everything *before* they start building. See what you can afford and at least get things roughed in (especially water/air lines and wiring).



I looked into adding some more ceiling mounted lights (metal halides) and it woulda been a monumental undertaking. You don't want to go back into the walls/ceiling/etc. once things are built, so do all the thinking early in the planning stages.



I was just thinking having 4 directly over where the car will be parked...



One area in the back of the shop (below the second story office) has a normal-height ceiling. I have the Jag stashed there with six 8' tubes positioned more or less over its parking spot. IMO you'd want a lot more light if you were gonna do any detailing there.
 
Accumulator said:
I looked into adding some more ceiling mounted lights (metal halides) and it woulda been a monumental undertaking. You don't want to go back into the walls/ceiling/etc. once things are built, so do all the thinking early in the planning stages.



This is exactly why I would either use a "drop ceiling," or no ceiling at all. Painted, exposed metal rafters wouldn't be an all bad thing, if nothing else it would provide an industrial look along with easy access to everything.



BTW where in NE Ohio are you located, Accumulator? I'll be in Alliance, OH (near Canton) in March on business... if you didn't mind a visitor I might have to swing by and see your setup. It sounds insane :getdown
 
Shiny Lil Detlr- Check your PMs.



I went with a cathedral ceiling for a number of reasons, some of them questionable. There are a few practical/functional downsides to say the least, but it's nice looking :o I had the "no ceiling" in my previous shop, an old Ford dealership building that was built in the '20s. Very cool looking, easy to hang stuff, but it was a *real* pain to clean those rafters!
 
Accumulator said:
Shiny Lil Detlr- Check your PMs.



I went with a cathedral ceiling for a number of reasons, some of them questionable. There are a few practical/functional downsides to say the least, but it's nice looking :o I had the "no ceiling" in my previous shop, an old Ford dealership building that was built in the '20s. Very cool looking, easy to hang stuff, but it was a *real* pain to clean those rafters!



Got it, thanks.



That's a good point about cleaning the rafters, too.... hadn't thought about that part of it. :think:
 
Thanks for the information. Printed out your answers and will show it to the electrician that is doing the work. I really appreciate your help.
 
Glad to be of help. As I said, this is one of those things you want to get right the first time. You might want to run your semi-finalized plans past us and see if there's anything you might oughta rethink. I was certain I had everything figured out when we built the current shop...heh heh famous last words :o



Oh, and the ceiling mounted incandescents should hang down, they should *not* be in cans. Recessed lighting isn't what you want for swirl spotting. Electricians generally don't know from swirls ;)
 
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