help for the ignorant.

jbar

New member
after a wash and spot claying i thought it would be a good opportunity to try out my pc. my intent was to remove spider webbing from a '95 grand prix trunk lid.



the product i used was 3m perfect-it II rubbing compound fine cut.i started out with an lc white pad, then to an lc orange pad. i had no luck in removing any of the spiderwebbing.



now would be a good spot to point out that i have read the "how to use the porter cable..." write up. i have also been reading for sometime here on the topic as well. for some reason i have not gotten a grasp of the necessary requirements.



i started by spraying the pad with a qd. then applied the product in an "x" on the pad. after a couple of applications the pad began to cake/load up. product did not spread evenly before or after the loading up, as i expected. the surface was left smooth and slick but had no effect on the spiderwebbing.



any advice, or link to a similiar thread is appreciated.



thanks, jeremy
 
I don't really know much about the LC pads but maybe you should try PI III on a cutting pad? :nixweiss



Worst case scenario, I guess you could wetsand it if that compound doesn't work.
 
Let me ask some questions to find a solution-

1) What speed number were you using?

(4-5.0 is recommended)

2) How big an area are you trying to cover

(2-foot x 2-foot is recommended

3) How long were you working the polish

(Work the polish until â€Ëœalmostâ€â„¢ dry or when it changes to a thin, clear liquid (its not necessary to use until it becomes a powder or is completely dissipated)



As with all car care products use very little product and keep foam pad well -lubricated (distilled water spray) remember - when in doubt, use less.

Apply Machine Polish at the rate of approximately 0.5 to 1.0-inch per second.





A few pointers-the abrading ability of any polish can be changed by their application method (i.e. machine or hand application, speed and / or pressure used, using it wet or dry and / or type of foam composition (different foam compositions and / or densities have a differing abrading ability) Machine, foam pad and product; the work is approximately distributed, 60% product, 30% foam composition and 10% pressure applied and / or speed of rotation or oscillation.



I would suggest you re-read âہ“How -to use the Porter-Cable 7424 Polisherâ€Â�, by DavidB



Porter Cable 7424 DavidB



I hope this helps

JonM
 
jbar- You were on the right track. A true cutting pad will have a little more bite than the orange, but not all *that* much.



Oh, try not to breath the PI-II dust. Silica is carcinogenic, sorta the same way that asbestos is.



Sometimes the paint is just too hard for easy correction by PC. I've worked clearcoats for literally *hours* with PI-II FCRC/PC/wool at speed 6 with virtually no improvement in the marring. In those cases there's only so many options left.



Two that come to mind (in order of preference) are:



-Try the PC with a small backing plate and 4" pads. The smaller pads allow you to put more pressure on the PC without it "bogging" or "merely jiggling".



-Try a more aggressive product. But note that that will perhaps leave "micromarring" which might put you right back in the same place- with marring you can't remove with mild approaches. If you want to try this, look at the Hi-Temp line at TOL or perhaps 1Z Ultra/Extra. You might even try a small area with such a product *by hand*. Takes forever, but you can apply a lot of pressure by hand (force spread over only the surface area of your finger, for instance).



If those ideas doesn't work I'd say you need to move up to a Cyclo or a rotary. Sorta expensive step to take, so maybe you'd rather live with the marring. But I'd try the smaller pads and stronger products before you give up.
 
thanks for the replys.



as for speed used: i applied product at 2. then increased to 5.



area worked: definitly no larger than 2x2.



work time: after applying product on an "x" on the pad i would stamp the product on the panel to keep from splattering. then would spread product at 2. at this point it appeared to me that i wasn't using enough product because it didn't spread evenly. however, after i kept working the product it would spread as "i thought it should". at that point i increased speed to 5. i stopped working before it dried. then wiped with a mf.

towards the end of my practicing, the product would cake up on the surface shortly after increasing speed to 5.



im certain i wasn't keeping the pad well lubricated, seeing as i sprayed the pad only at the beginning. perhaps improving here will help my situation.



i certainly will reread the how to.



accumulater, thanks for the tips as well and for the product referrals. hopefully those tips will work, but it not i'll live with the marring.



apparently i've underestimated the work/knowledge required to produce the results i've seen here.



thanks again.
 
Back
Top