Help! Bought PC 7242xp

[phatkid77]

Ok.. YEARS ago when I had my silver mustang I used zaino (z2). Very old bottle
The other day did the hood of 2017 explorer (smoke quartz colour) and I was pissed. So much pressure to try and get even colour.. hard to explain but some spots were darker? Almost stained? Until I attacked with a lot of pressure

Well I’m old and don’t need the stress so impulse shopped last nite. Haha

Got the porter cable so I don’t butcher paint... then got country 5.5” backing plate and a couple white pads and orange invade something bad happens down the road...and on a friend that attends car shows recommendation I got chemical guys black light and ordered griots best of show quick detailer... after reading tho I’m thinking I should have got v36 or whatever it is and also v7 quick detailer... ce la vie
Ordered some new microfibre towels as well
Anyway......
since I bought it.... I want to use it more than a couple times a year I will use it on my CRV and explorer.. I’m guessing every two months?
So thinking I will wash and dry... polish with blacklight and I have collinite 476s Latin. Around here so top it with that....
now, I remember with zaino... the more coats the deeper the shine... what’s the word now a days?
Can I polish ontop of 476 a few washes later ? Or is that a waste? Just use spray detailer? Speaking of spray detailer.. can I spray my waffle weave when I’m drying my vehicles.. thought I read that here

Videos I watched. Polish with the white pad... you apply slow than turn the speed up with the same pad and that buffs it out. Correct?
I’m thinking for paste wax you apply with a different applicator and then toss a buffing bonnet on to remove.. or do by hand I guess

Any and all advice is certainly recommended!
Thanks
Phats


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[RaysWay]

Ok.. YEARS ago when I had my silver mustang I used zaino (z2). Very old bottle
The other day did the hood of 2017 explorer (smoke quartz colour) and I was pissed. So much pressure to try and get even colour.. hard to explain but some spots were darker? Almost stained? Until I attacked with a lot of pressure

I`ve never used Zaino but it sounds like the bottle had expired.

Got the porter cable so I don’t butcher paint... then got country 5.5” backing plate and a couple white pads and orange invade something bad happens down the road...and on a friend that attends car shows recommendation I got chemical guys black light and ordered griots best of show quick detailer... after reading tho I’m thinking I should have got v36 or whatever it is and also v7 quick detailer... ce la vie
Ordered some new microfibre towels as well
Anyway......
since I bought it.... I want to use it more than a couple times a year I will use it on my CRV and explorer.. I’m guessing every two months?

The frequency in which you use the products depends on how aggressive the product is. Think of the paint like your skin. Applying body lotion to your skin every single day is no problem because it`s not aggressive, whereas scrubbing your skin with steel wool everyday would get painful very quickly. Luckily Chemical Guys Blacklight is a very mild product so using it every two months is no problem, but I would use a less aggressive pad like a black or grey finishing pad. If you only have white and orange, use the white pad and be sure to prime your pad before use.

So thinking I will wash and dry... polish with blacklight and I have collinite 476s Latin. Around here so top it with that....
now, I remember with zaino... the more coats the deeper the shine... what’s the word now a days?
Can I polish ontop of 476 a few washes later ? Or is that a waste? Just use spray detailer?

Sure you can do that. Just keep in mind you`ll be polishing off the 476. I would normally just maintain the 476 with spray detailer until you`re ready to reapply 476.

Speaking of spray detailer.. can I spray my waffle weave when I’m drying my vehicles.. thought I read that here

Absolutely. Using a spray detailer as a drying aid is a great way to minimize any light scratching or marring during the drying process while adding some gloss and protection at the same time.

Videos I watched. Polish with the white pad... you apply slow than turn the speed up with the same pad and that buffs it out. Correct?
I’m thinking for paste wax you apply with a different applicator and then toss a buffing bonnet on to remove.. or do by hand I guess

Normally a pad is only used as an applicator. So it`s used to apply the product not remove it. Polish with the white pad, then grab a towel and wipe the residue off the paint. Same technique with the paste wax, or your can buy microfiber bonnets if you want to remove the residue with your machine, but I`ve always found it easier just to do it by hand unless you`re working on a large vehicle like a boat or RV.

 

[rlmccarty2000]

Please skip the Chemical Guys polishes. They are probably the worst on the market. I have all the CG polishes. I bought them when I first started and didn’t know any better. I’m trying to use up the CG V32 on headlights as I don’t really think it is fit for paint. Maybe I’m being harsh, but I think just about any other brand will provide better results. Not all CG products are bad and I am not slamming CGs whole lineup, just the polishes. V7 is a good QD, but as a sealant it does not last very long.

 

[Accumulator]

Ok.. The other day did the hood of 2017 explorer (smoke quartz colour) and I was pissed. So much pressure to try and get even colour.. hard to explain but some spots were darker? Almost stained? Until I attacked with a lot of pressure..

Yikes..that doesn`t sound good to me, I never use much pressure for. I suspect the paint needed decontaminated/cleaned, it might`ve actually *been* stained. If it`s never been decontaminated/clayed/etc. then it might be a good idea to do that before you polish.

..Got the porter cable so I don’t butcher paint...[and some othere stuf too]...

Heh heh, the *only* time I`ve ever burned paint in over 40 years of using every type of polisher...was with a PC Just sayin` to be a little bit careful.

since I bought it.... I want to use it more than a couple times a year I will use it on my CRV and explorer.. I’m guessing every two months?

I`d be pretty surprised if you like using it that much, and FWIW I don`t even use my polishers every two years. Shouldn`t *need* to and if you polish too often you`ll kill the clearcoat. Waxing by machine, which I *do* kinda like, isn`t always any better/easier/faster than just doing it by hand, but maybe you`ll like that and can get more use out of it that way.

So thinking I will wash and dry... polish with blacklight and I have collinite 476s Latin. Around here so top it with that....
now, I remember with zaino... the more coats the deeper the shine... what’s the word now a days?
Can I polish ontop of 476 a few washes later ? Or is that a waste? Just use spray detailer? Speaking of spray detailer.. can I spray my waffle weave when I’m drying my vehicles.. thought I read that here

Consider the claying/decontamination between the wash (or during it) and the polishing.

I wouldn`t try to top the 476S with anything and IME there`s little benefit from doing more than 2-3 applications of it even if you do a version of Spit-Shining.

Yes, using a Quick Detailer/Spray Wax while drying can be a good idea, just be sure to use one that`s compatible with your 476S (IME not all QDs are).

Videos I watched. Polish with the white pad... you apply slow than turn the speed up with the same pad and that buffs it out. Correct?

I don`t want to sound like a real [jerk], but you oughta have a much better understanding of the Polishing Process before you start.

It`s far too involved a subject for me to go over here/now, and different people learn stuff best via different methods; figure out what`ll work for *your* learning style and get a good grip on the subject. Some people learn well from watching videos or observing an expert do it, other people (like me) learn best by studying/thinking on it instead. So figure out what`ll work best for *you* before you start.

THEN it oughta be pretty easy to ask a few specific Qs and be all dialed-in when you start. It`s not *that* tricky, you`re basically just abrading the paint until it`s smooth (like sanding a piece of wood) and the polisher is just a "fast hand that doesn`t get tired". I bet it`ll be a *LOT* more gentle (i.e., less effective, or at least less efficient) than you expect; this step can take a while.

When you *are* ready to start, remember to pick a representative Test Spot and work that first. I`d do one small area and do it completely, right up to where it`s ready-to-wax-nice and make sure you`re all squared away before you do the whole car. Be sure to have good inspection lighting!

IMO it`s critical that you don`t do a whole lotta work only to find out you`d been doing something wrong. Catch any mistakes while they`re really insignificant and they`ll be easy to correct. THEN you`ll be able to do the bulk of the car without trouble. That`s why the Test Spot is so important.

OK, a few specific tips for polishing:

- Use the right amount of product, which will vary depending on what product/technique you`re using
- DON`T overwork the product, buff it off while it`s still a little wet unless you have a very good specific reason to do othewise
- DON`T work big areas. I seldom work the "standard" 2` x 2` size, that`s just too big for me when polishing
- Clean/replace your pads *VERY* frequently and I sure don`t mean after a whole panel. They get loaded up with cut-off clearcoat and dried polish

I’m thinking for paste wax you apply with a different applicator and then toss a buffing bonnet on to remove.. or do by hand I guess

Generally, you use a different pad/applicator/towel for different products/steps.

If you do use a bonnet to buff off the wax residue, you`ll need:
-Lots of those bonnets
-To do a follow-up by hand to get that last 2% of residue off (I always have to do that)

But yeah, doing the waxing by machine (don`t overwork the wax or use too much!) and buffing it off with bonnets on the machine can work great..even if, to me, it *does* usually seem harder/longer/more work than doing it by hand.

FWIW, IMO most people use a zillion times more wax than they need to, and make the whole thing much harder by doing so.

I always fog the surface of the vehicle with my breath when buffing off waxes. The tiny bit of moisture makes the buffing go better and I absolutely do that when using 476S.

 

[GearHead_1]

^^^ Pretty sound advice. ^^^

 

[pwaug]

Mike Phillips from AutoGeek has a book with all the steps in car care from washing to polishing to protecting the paint that would be a good investment.

 

[phatkid77]

Mike Phillips from AutoGeek has a book with all the steps in car care from washing to polishing to protecting the paint that would be a good investment.

That’s who I watched that just used the white applicator.
Put it on speed 1 and applied. Then put it to 6 and co tinier buffing until eventually it was gone.
I’m sure a final wipe with a hand micro is done as well
To me, apply a quick thin coat with the polisher then buff off with a different pad(s) and or microfibre


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[Accumulator]

That’s who I watched that just used the white applicator.
Put it on speed 1 and applied. Then put it to 6 and co tinier buffing until eventually it was gone...

Well, that`s how Mike uses that product on that car. I`ve haven`t done that for ages as it`s not appropriate for the stuff I use. Kinda surprised that he "buffed until ..it was gone", but OK...Mike knows what he`s doing and why.

I’m sure a final wipe with a hand micro is done as well

If you`re talking about *polishing* then it sure is! Gotta get that abrasive stuff off the paint.

To me, apply a quick thin coat with the polisher then buff off with a different pad(s) and or microfibre

For the LSP yeah, but not with compounds/polishes.

Just make sure you have a sufficiently thorough understanding of this stuff before you start. Like...you oughta be able to explain exactly what your every move will be, why you`re doing it that way, what might go haywire, and how to fix things if that happens. I mean you oughta be able to write a BOOK about the process before you ever start trying to do it.

E.g., Mike spread the product at 1, then worked it at 6 until basically gone, right? OK, WHY?!? I never do (two-thirds of) that and I know what I`m doing. I can pretty well guess why Mike did it that way, and I`m sure he could guess why I *don`t* do that. Get that level of understanding before you start.

 

[phatkid77]

I appreciate everyone taking the time to help me..
perhaps I’ll keep the speed under 4 and practice on friends cars


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[Accumulator]

I appreciate everyone taking the time to help me..
perhaps I’ll keep the speed under 4 and practice on friends cars藍


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Practicing on something, uhm...not critical...is a great idea!

But do all that [freakin`] studying first I know, I know..but I really am serious (now I`ll shut up about it though).

Don`t bother keeping the speed under 4 as it`ll just waste your time and frustrate ya. Speed 6 is really what you want for doing correction almost always.

Despite what Mike demonstrated, I`d *REALLY* recommend that you don`t work the product *too* long. IF you`re using a non-diminishing product, you can`t really stop and buff it off (and clean your pad ) too often; the biggest mistake that can cause is a lack of timely progress. BUT...if you`re using a product that breaks down then you gotta walk the fine line between working it long enough for the abrasives to break down vs. working it *too long* and leaving some hazing/micro-marring, getting dusting, and/or having it be hard to buff off the paint. Figure out the Work Time on your Test Spot.

You can`t stop and clean/replace your pads too often. Really.

Unless you`re SURE it`d be OK, keep your products off black plastic trim or they might stain it terribly. If in doubt, mask it off with quality masking tape (not the cheap stuff!).

I predict you`ll find that the correction happens slower/more incrementally than you`d like.."gee, this isn`t happening fast enough!"...but that way you`re not killing the paint. I`d aim for "a lot better" rather than "Autopian Perfect". After the first few hours I bet you`ll agree that`s good enough So doing a pal`s car oughta be a great way to start, hey...if you`re not charging for it they oughta be satisfied with any improvement!

Don`t forget about the claying/decontamination step though. Sometimes you can skip it, but for the first Big Detail on any vehicle, I`d expect it to be necessary.

 

[pwaug]

Here`s a link to the book by Mike that I mentioned above--- https://www.autogeekonline.net/foru...w-car-shine-paperback-book-mike-phillips.html

 

[phatkid77]

Here`s a link to the book by Mike that I mentioned above--- https://www.autogeekonline.net/foru...w-car-shine-paperback-book-mike-phillips.html

Thanks again guys.
Just read this article here
https://www.autopia-carcare.com/how...-machine-xp-by-porter-cable-car-polisher.html
So yes accumulator. I’m still studying.
My CRV is 2015 and 2017 explorer.
Charcoal and smoke quartz colour. So I’d say no major correction required...
definitely aiming for that’s better not perfect look.
I’m positive it will be just fine


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[Accumulator]

phatkid77- That all sounds great to me Yeah, I bet it`ll go fine too...other than taking longer than you`d like.

 

[phatkid77]

100% it will bug me lol. Impatient.
On the plus will get faster/more efficient over time. I hope. Haha.
Or I even thought maybe just do a panel or two at time. (Hood and front fenders one day and sides on another lol).
Phats


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[Accumulator]

100% it will bug me lol. Impatient.

Heh heh, now that everybody thinks I`m old I can say "ah, young man in a hurry"

On the plus will get faster/more efficient over time. I hope. Haha.

Heh heh#2, well...maybe. You wouldn`t *believe* how long it takes me to do this stuff!

Or I even thought maybe just do a panel or two at time. (Hood and front fenders one day and sides on another lol).

Yes *yes* *YES*! Great approach! Only challenge/concern is that the panels usually get some dust/etc. on them and getting that off without causing any marring can be tricky. What I like is to do a panel or two after each of a series of regular washes, then put an extra coat on everything after that`s all done (after another regularly-scheduled wash).

If you`re only dealing with one or two panels, IMO it`s easier to get through the job without becoming frustrated/etc. (which generally makes you [screw] up whatever you`re doing, at least if you`re like me).

Oh, and I`m glad I didn`t put you off with my lecturing (retired teacher here), I can come across as harsher than I intend

 

[phatkid77]

Lol. Admittedly I’m not handy but I do possess great common sense and rationale skills. 41yr old and over 20yr working as a correctional officer, a forum isn’t going to rattle me. Hah
If I had to think, maybe one line rubbed me wrong way, but as I said I’m not an idiot and can appreciate the underlying message which is trying to help. Hell, I’m not sure how long you’ve been here but I’m willing to bet numerous times when you’ve “tried” helping someone with advice they don’t listen and come back worse off??? So yeah.. some times some people need to here it more “direct” lol. Even then some don’t listen
On that note, hopefully I don’t come back with a help fix my screw up post. Haha

Also I’m an idiot and don’t convey things properly usually and suck at English. re read my post after reading your concern about dust... yeah I’m an idiot. I TOTALLY meant the one panel at a time would be AFTER car washes. Lmao. Not 4 days later on a dusty car. That would definitely be cringe worthy!


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[Accumulator]

phatkid77- Eh, sorry about whichever sentence rubbed you the wrong way, but if there was only one I guess I did OK.

And yeah..sigh..over the years I have indeed had folks blow me off and then ask for help about exactly what I was ranting about!

Nah, you`re not an idiot If you came across that way I probably wouldn`t be posting on this thread.

Twenty YEARS as a CO! Yikes, you have my respect..talk about a hostile (work) environment! Heh heh, IMO if you were an idiot or did *NOT* have common sense/etc. you could never have lasted so long in that profession. And you and I are absolutely on the same page about getting rattled by [stuff] on the internet where everybody`s 10` tall and bulletproof...gee, what`s an internet forum compared to your average day at work?!?

And I`m glad we were also on the same page about doing each section after a wash.

All sounds good to me!

 

[Accumulator]

Oh, one more thing ...don`t put too awful much pressure on that PCXP. I doubt it`ll ever happen, but every now and then somebody really leans on it and the *hollow* threaded shaft that holds the pad`s backing plate breaks. Yeah, the resulting jagged metal spinning around could do exactly what you`d expect. Whatever cost savings they get by making it hollow can really cost the user if that happens.

OOPS, yet another thing more! If the PCXP comes with a white foam pad (their older ones used to), don`t use it on your paint, save it for some household work or something. Just no good...but hey, it`s been forever since I bought my PCs and maybe I`m just wasting bandwidth.