Heavy Cutting Question

K

KnuckleBuckett

New member
I use a Flex 3401.



I sometimes need more cut than m105 and a purple foamed wool pad. However I would rather not wet sand if I can help it. I can usually get through these spots with multiple passes, however I would rather use the proper pad and product combo in the first place.



I know a few of you are going to say I need to go rotary. Yes. I understand. I will eventually. Just not ready yet! :chuckle:





Pad(s) and Product(s) suggestions?
 
KnuckleBuckett - I'm gonna guess that the M105 is more aggressive than 1Z Intensive (the harshest stuff I've used via PC). So..I think the next step up (exclusive of a rotary), it to do the wetsanding.



The 3.5" PFW pads (via PC) knocked out 2K and 3K sanding scratches with ease IME, and the sanding felt *safer* to me than repeated aggressive PCing. I'd expect the same to be true of your Flex/PFW/M105 combo, even with the larger size PFW pads.
 
You are not going to get much more agggressive then M105 and PFW, so like Accumulator said wetsanding would be your best bet.
 
Yep, next step up is a compound with a twisted heavy cut wool pad. Maybe there is a Presta compound more aggressive than 105 but probably not much more.
 
Autogeek or a paint supply store. The Megs Solo wool pads are 7 inches I think. Edge makes 8 inch velcro and 6 inch for the Edge adapter. Some Lowes carry the Makita 8 inch velcro backed wool pad.
 
I missed the point that you were using a flex, that was one of the reasons I use a rotary much more "flex"ability over the flex in my book.
 
Yeah, the use of a non-rotary Flex gives me pause when it comes to the twisted wool pads :think: I dunno...I'm willing to take some chances (hey, I did the PC/3.5" PFW experiment on my metallic carbon Denali XL!) but I don't think that *I* would use a twisted wool pad with anything but a rotary. At least not on anything I cared about.



Using a polisher is very different from wetsanding, but when it comes to taking off a lot of paint, I always feel like I have more control over what the sandpaper is doing. Had I listened to my painter and wetsanded the M3 (instead of rotarying it to death) it might not need paintwork quite so bady.



But then *I* am much more likely to just live with marring that would require these sorts of measures...but I guess that's another discussion for another thread at another time.
 
KnuckleBuckett said:
Why wouldn't one use twisted wool with anything but a rotary?
Click to expand...



It seems that the more aggressive a process is, the more likely it is to yield problematic results via non-rotary.



In this case specifically, *JUST IMO*, those strands of wool moving in a stricly circular matter (rotary) would yield very different results than the same strands moving in all directions (random orbital)...sounds less uniform for one thing. But hey, I'm just :think: here....it sounds to me like when I tried using ~6" regular wool pad on the PC...more hazing and hardly any more correction (compared to a yellow foam cutting pad).



I suspect that the foamed wool are a special case in that they aren't so particular with regard to which machine you use.
 
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