Headlights restoration done the right way.

G

Gtasncdetail

New member
Hello this is my way of doing headlights. I used to restore headlights by sanding the clearcoat and then polished them to a clear finish, aftet that i would apply a sealent by hand, they would come out great but they would be hazed again with in a 2-3 months. So i came up with a different aproach.



First sand the clear coat until all imperfections are gone and work your way up to 1500 grit.

Then tape all around the headlight to avoid overspray landing on the paint.



Get an air brush and apply a a coat or two of whatever sealent of your choice the results would be better and will last longer then just compounding.



Some examples below..



Ps im on my phone so excuse my grammar.



Before



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After

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Before



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After



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Thanks for looking :)
 
Headlights restoration done the right way would be to reapply and actual headlight/plastic UV coating like the one applied at the factory. Not a wax or sealant....maybe you meant to say UV coating?
 
SEM makes headlight UV coating thats available in a spray can. Saw this out at SEMA and have yet to give it a try but it's on my to do list.
 
hotrod66paul said:
SEM makes headlight UV coating thats available in a spray can. Saw this out at SEMA and have yet to give it a try but it's on my to do list.
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Thanks Paul, for the heads up. Need to get some and give it a try.

I have been using most any urethane clear, as they contain some percentage of UV blockers, interesting to see if the SEM product contains a better grade and higher percentage.

Grumpy
 
Yes im sorry for the missunderstanding... I meant to say a sealent like a clear coat with uv protection. I have a formula that im testing to see how long it last. Its been on a car currently for 3 months if i see that it works for a year i will share it with all of you guys.
 
For those of you who do a lot of this sort of work, look into the portable masking unit at Autobody Toolmart's web site.

I have the big double paper roll unit, but the single roll (Astro #8234) is great for mobile guys as well as fixed operations. (Have the big one as I do a lot of painting, etc) There is another for a buck less, but does not have the handle for carrying.

The 18 inch paper works great, although the 12 inch will do fine. 12 inch, 3 rolls for $27.49, 18 inch, 2 rolls same $27.49. Will last the average detailer a year.

Next thing is to get a sleeve of the Hystik 3/4 inch "automotive" masking tape. depending on what you would use it for, there are two types, both are heat resistant so they don't leave a residue if they have to be left on for a few days, not so with the "big box" general purpose masking tape.

These tapes, for a sleeve of 12 rolls will cost for the low grade $18 and the better grade (I recommend moving up to this one) is $30 a sleeve.

Having a set up like this really speeds up the work, reduces overspray leakage, easier application and removal, you name it, it's a winner.

Grumpy
 
Ron Ketcham said:
For those of you who do a lot of this sort of work, look into the portable masking unit at Autobody Toolmart's web site.

I have the big double paper roll unit, but the single roll (Astro #8234) is great for mobile guys as well as fixed operations. (Have the big one as I do a lot of painting, etc) There is another for a buck less, but does not have the handle for carrying.

The 18 inch paper works great, although the 12 inch will do fine. 12 inch, 3 rolls for $27.49, 18 inch, 2 rolls same $27.49. Will last the average detailer a year.

Next thing is to get a sleeve of the Hystik 3/4 inch "automotive" masking tape. depending on what you would use it for, there are two types, both are heat resistant so they don't leave a residue if they have to be left on for a few days, not so with the "big box" general purpose masking tape.

These tapes, for a sleeve of 12 rolls will cost for the low grade $18 and the better grade (I recommend moving up to this one) is $30 a sleeve.

Having a set up like this really speeds up the work, reduces overspray leakage, easier application and removal, you name it, it's a winner.

Grumpy
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Great info Ron i will definitly check this out because honestly the longest part of the process is taping with news paper :p...
 
Another "little tip" regarding masking tape.

Each manufacturer has their own "adhesive" formula.

Which means that some brand of tapes will not properly adhere to another brand's tape surface.

3M is good stuff, but let's face it, a lot of their products are very pricey, so look for another brand of product that is by a long time manufacturer of quality products before spending money that could go else where in your business.

I have been very pleased with the HyStik tapes, for some time, even their "blue" tapes appear to me to be equal to the 3M.

Unfortunately in this little town I live in, the only off the shelf tapes are 3M, so I order on line and place a large enough order to justify the shipping costs.

Grumpy
 
drew935 said:
Will opti coat work as a sealant for the headlights? I will look around for SEM.
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No. But the new Opti-Lens they have coming out may have enough UV inhibitors in it, but you'd still have to polish the headlight as it won't fill in sanding marks like an actual UV coating/clear would. Have to wait until its release to be sure though.
 
Im hoping my formula will last over a year. We ll see what happens. Any more tips or suggestion about how to

Improve this are welcome.
 
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