Hazing with every polish on black '11 Tacoma?

S

SpoolinNoMore

New member
Yesterday I did a paint correction on a black 2011 Tacoma and was getting *heavy* hazing with 205/green pad, 205/MF pad, 105/MF pad, 105/orange pad, d300/MF pad, UNO/MF pad, UNO/orange pad, UNO/green pad, and DCP/blue pad. All of my attempts were with a primed pad that was fresh, washed, and blown with air. The hazing didn't go away with 25% IPA left to dwell and wiped away, nor buffed off with OID. I did not allow the polishes to dry up either, but that is what the hazing looked like (it matched the orbital pattern from my GGDA).



After all of these polishing attempts on different speeds, pressure, and techniques on this insanely soft paint, I ended up reaching for megs UC as a hail Mary (I could never get this stuff to compound nicely at all). On an orange pad it finished up perfectly clear, unlike any of my previous polish/pad combos I had tried on my test spot.



Has anybody had an experience like this before? This was the first paint I've came across that was this difficult to find the right combo for...
 
Stupid soft paint makes you the test pilot. :hairpull What works for someone else may not work for you and vice versa. Some of my best results on super-soft black have involved working assbackwards, ie: a cutting pad with a finishing polish or a finishing pad with 105. Since UC/orange worked for you I'm a bit surprised you didn't have any luck with 105/orange earlier. :shrug: Whatever works.



How'd you fare applying/removing an LSP without marring? I use super-soft WWs on my soft black spritzed with M34. Every MF with the slightest nap left marks. My black problem child got Opti Coat using Anthony Orosco's shop towel/gloved foam method. Seems to be much more swirl resistant. YMMV.



TL
 
The vehicle is actually returning today to get a dawn foam (to remove oils) and OC treatment. I'm pretty sure I'd lose my mind if I had hazing with an LSP as well :).
 
Its a crazy situation to be in and those paints are dispicable!



I find using a single-system polish like P1 is good, just changing the pads. I start with rotary but polish and finish with the OR. Finishing means buffing increasingly lightly until the residue has more or less disappeared. Then apply a solvent-based Nano Sealant like Crystal Diamond Glaze with a DA and heat-gun to cure it so again there is pretty much nothing to buff off with a MF.
 
Spoolin, I feel your pain.



I have much the same problem with mine at the moment, My truck had a custom paint job 18 months ago and the painter did a less than average job I have sag under the clear coat and there was not enough catalyst used in the clear. To the point that sanding marks and paint defects are easily seen and the moment you remove one 10 more show up.



I have spent the last two full weekends trying to fix the scratches and marring in preparation for Nitro Seal however the more I work on it the worse it gets. To the point now that merely resting a MF towel on the surface leaves marks. I have tried every combination, Uno, menz, OP, CG, Megs etc new pads old pads new towels inc a couple of suede nothing worked with out leaving marring.



My next and final step is to use a cleaner with a chemical abrasive and hope that works. Other than that the simple truth is I have no other option than to get it re flow coated, I just have not found the time to be with out the truck for 3 or more weeks.



Sadly I think it's time to give up on it.



On a positive note Nitro seal looks awesome (if you can look past the damm marring)









Daniel
 
I'm glad it seems like it's the insanely difficult paint and not me or the products I've been using. I need another polish like I need another hole in my head but I was afraid I didn't have a vast enough supply of polishes >_
 
No it's not just you,



My biggest problem is I have an event at the end of the month were I need the Truck as close to perfect as it can be and now I'm back to square one with little option to fix it in time. lol best I can hope for now is it rains all day at the event, with out the sun no one will ever no haha



O well
 
TLMitchell said:
Stupid soft paint makes you the test pilot. :hairpull Some of my best results on super-soft black have involved working assbackwards, ie: a cutting pad with a finishing polish or a finishing pad with 105. TL
Click to expand...



Sorry to the OP for the thread jack



TL I'm really glad you mentioned the above as it was not something that came to my mind, I ended up using a worn out orange CG Hex logic pad with 85RD and it seemed to be the only thing that worked. The finish is not as jeweled as I would like, but atleast it cleaned up the hazing and marring nicely.



Thank you



Cheers Daniel
 
Woody Wax said:
Sorry to the OP for the thread jack



TL I'm really glad you mentioned the above as it was not something that came to my mind, I ended up using a worn out orange CG Hex logic pad with 85RD and it seemed to be the only thing that worked. The finish is not as jeweled as I would like, but atleast it cleaned up the hazing and marring nicely.



Thank you



Cheers Daniel
Click to expand...



You're welcome. You may want to give a compound that finishes well a try with a red or gold finishing pad. 105/crimson works well with a light touch to amp things up using the assbackwards approach.



Haven't tried it yet but some high end detailers are singing the praises of Sonax Nano Paint Cleaner for finishing. It's got some wax in it so I guess it'd be more of an AIO than a paint cleaner but I've seen some folks have turned out impressive results on notoriously soft finishes. Todd Cooperider did a product review on it on his Detailed Image blog a while back.



TL
 
TLMitchell said:
You're welcome. You may want to give a compound that finishes well a try with a red or gold finishing pad. 105/crimson works well with a light touch to amp things up using the assbackwards approach.



Haven't tried it yet but some high end detailers are singing the praises of Sonax Nano Paint Cleaner for finishing. It's got some wax in it so I guess it'd be more of an AIO than a paint cleaner but I've seen some folks have turned out impressive results on notoriously soft finishes. Todd Cooperider did a product review on it on his Detailed Image blog a while back.



TL
Click to expand...



I would have liked to jewel it, but I didn't want to push my luck as it was jewelling it that got me in to the trouble in the first place and to be honest I am reasonably happy with the end result and I have since applied Poxy which looks awesome.



autoaesthetica said:
What from the diminishing abrasive category have you tried thus far? All the polishes from the OP's post are non diminishing.
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Mike, There is a lot of history with this paint and kinda a long story. Short version custom paint that has been flow coated and the paint/painter has a few issues from poor application to lack of catalyst creating super soft clear, and sag during the flow coating. Every time I get deeper into the clear coat the softer it becomes.



The biggest problem I faced was lack of time and no real option to pick up other products to use. I had to use what I had with me which included the following. Uno, Menz (203, 106ff, 85rd) Chem guys 1.5, pro polish, I even tried a swirl remover. KAIO, Poor boys SSR and a few other. Pads from yellow through to blue and red.



When uno didn't work I went to 85rd on black pad which left hazing, it wasn't until I read TL's post on working backwards that I tried most combination only to find the best result I got was from a worn out CG hex in orange and 85rd. Lol trust me I had tried almost every combination and for some reason the worn out pad just worked. it's not perfect but it's good enough to attend the event this weekend coming.



Cheers Daniel
 
Woody Wax said:
I would have liked to jewel it, but I didn't want to push my luck as it was jewelling it that got me in to the trouble in the first place and to be honest I am reasonably happy with the end result and I have since applied Poxy which looks awesome.







Mike, There is a lot of history with this paint and kinda a long story. Short version custom paint that has been flow coated and the paint/painter has a few issues from poor application to lack of catalyst creating super soft clear, and sag during the flow coating. Every time I get deeper into the clear coat the softer it becomes.



The biggest problem I faced was lack of time and no real option to pick up other products to use. I had to use what I had with me which included the following. Uno, Menz (203, 106ff, 85rd) Chem guys 1.5, pro polish, I even tried a swirl remover. KAIO, Poor boys SSR and a few other. Pads from yellow through to blue and red.



When uno didn't work I went to 85rd on black pad which left hazing, it wasn't until I read TL's post on working backwards that I tried most combination only to find the best result I got was from a worn out CG hex in orange and 85rd. Lol trust me I had tried almost every combination and for some reason the worn out pad just worked. it's not perfect but it's good enough to attend the event this weekend coming.



Cheers Daniel
Click to expand...



Thats crazy Daniel, but I too have seen similar. Sometimes(as you have noticed) softer paints respond better(for whatever reason) to milder polishes with firmer pads. I always try to think that the firm foams act as a "support" to the polish, whereas softer finishing pads give wayyy to much and add a little to much "variability"(I guess maybe I mean physical flex) for the polishes and they end up being just dragged all over.



Glad to hear you are getting it sorted though - good grief.
 
I did a 2 step on a 4 runner and had some hazing issues as well. Not as bad as you describe but I couldnt get it to finish down right. After a number of combos what worked was UNO on a white lc pad and I primed the pad with D300. It makes for a real nice combo. Minimal if any dusting and a nice finish. Sometimes I find when I have hazing I am getting lazy and letting up on the pressure on my final section passes. The pad spins a bit faster and seems to leave some hazing.

My only theory is as the pad accelerates and I lighten the pressure possibly some clumps of polish return to the surface of the pad and leave micro-marring or hazing. Just a theory. Usually when I go back and use even pressure throughout my working area it goes away.
 
Now. The name HD finish will change to HD 1 step I believe. HD UNO finishes PERFECT. HD FINISH has enough cut to use it as an all in one. But wait until 3D replies. This is just what I heard.
 
tdekany said:
Now. The name HD finish will change to HD 1 step I believe. HD UNO finishes PERFECT. HD FINISH has enough cut to use it as an all in one. But wait until 3D replies. This is just what I heard.
Click to expand...



I don't care what they call it as long as they have the finished product in my hands by yesterday! Seriously though, I can't wait.
 
tdekany said:
Now. The name HD finish will change to HD 1 step I believe. HD UNO finishes PERFECT. HD FINISH has enough cut to use it as an all in one. But wait until 3D replies. This is just what I heard.
Click to expand...



Thomas,



I heard much the same thing, although I think they should just call it HD 1 :D



I was under the impression it is meant to be an AIO with a true abrasive, but I could be wrong. you know how these Chinese whispers go lol



Cheers Daniel
 
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