Hazing paint?

A

audio1der

New member
Tried polishing a reasonably well cared for White Mazda last night.

Started with #80 on white LC pad at speed 3.5, bumping up to 5 once it was worked in.

Not enough cutting power for some deeper swirls and scratches.

Moved up to orange LC pad with 3M 39002, same process.

Got rid of most imperfections, but left paint heavily marred/hazed.

Went back down to white pad with #80 which just could not get rid of all the marring/haze, not matter how many passes I made.

Only half the hood was done by PC, and you can see the difference between the clear, scratched factory finish and the smooth, hazed side.

Do I need a less aggressive glaze/polish to finish?

All the pads have only been used twice and are clean. The car was washed and clayed, then rinsed before polishing.



The surface was cool to the touch (started after dinner, and it was getting cool/dark outside) is the only possible problem I can think of!?

Please- ANY adice/ideas are welcome!



I'm so discouraged with the PC right now, it's close to being in the classifieds.:(
 
LC Orange pad with 3M Perfect It II Fine Cut Rubbing Comound (39002) is a pretty aggressive combo. Some times when I use a cutting pad and an aggressive compound I follow up with the same compound on a polishing pad. I think going from 39002 and LC Orange pad to Megs #80 on a LC White pad might have been to big a jump.



The above is assumeing you did everything else correct. Other wise it could have been a dirty pad, worked product too long or not long enough, etc
 
Haven't used the PI II RC (39002), but I have used the PI III RC with good results. It's my understanding that the PI II has more cut that the PI III.



One key is to make sure you work a small area (~2x2) and work it long enough for the abrasives to properly break down, otherwise it will leave a lot of hazing as you described. You may want to go over it with the RC again on the white pad and make sure you work it long enough to break it down (it will start to dust, and it takes longer than #80), then the #80 should do a better job of removing any haze that might remain.



Someone had this same problem last week with SSR2.5 and it turned out they were using way too much product, so you may want to experiment with that also.



White can be a very hard paint to work, and when I use PI III RC I usually follow with PI III MG which seems to have a bit more bite than #80.



Be careful with the PI II RC, one difference between it and the III series is the II series dust is bad stuff to inhale.
 
Yeah, what they said.



I *always* use the 39002 (and also 05933) with a polishing pad after using it with something more aggressive. This will usually leave a pretty good finish. *Then* step down to a milder product with a polishing pad.



I too always use PI-III MG (05937) after the 3M RCs, somehow I just never reach for the #80 :nixweiss
 
Eliot Ness said:


Someone had this same problem last week with SSR2.5 and it turned out they were using way too much product, so you may want to experiment with that also.



Click to expand...



I agree, Eliot Ness. Great advice. I went through the a little bit more is better phase...boy, was that mistake once using IP!



Also, I had problems once using a damp pad ...can't remember the details, but maybe I was using IP. Can't remember, sorry, but I never use pre-"dampened" pads since. Maybe someone else knows more about this.....
 
Thanks, all.

I'd like to try going over it again with a white pad and the 39002, letting it break down more than I was. I was not aware it was such a big jump from 39002/orange to #80/white.

I have used that combo on a couple of other vehicles, with 0 hazing. In fact, there was so little I might have been able to go right from Rc to LSP.

This is what makes the learning curve so steep...

I'll press on- thanks for the input.:nervous2:
 
Yeah, be sure to let it break down all the way, that makes a big difference.



audio1der said:
This is what makes the learning curve so steep...
Click to expand...



Not to split hairs (or otherwise be insufferable :o ) but you mean

"..makes the learning curve so *flat*..." ;) Although it sounds counter-intuitive, a steep learning curve is *good*, as it means lots of learning over not much time (since "learning" is the thing of interest, learning on "Y" axis, time on "X" axis is how it's usually presented). Ex-teacher here, used to explain that one to my students every semester.



Again, sorry if that sounds [INSERT derogatory adjective HERE]
 
And here I was so excited that you posted on my thread, when it was just to critique me:bawling:

I have a very un-waxed Jetta to do tonight, and I feel more comfortable with that paint; hopefully it gets my confidence back up.
 
Heh heh, yeah, aren't I a royal pain sometimes :D Actually, it wasn't *just* to be critical, and, well, think of it as "educating" rather than critiquing-that's the spirit in which it was intended ;)



Did you work on the Mazda some more? I was just thinking how much I liked working the clear on our MPV with 3M stuff. Next time you're buying products, you might try the PI-III (05933) instead of the 39002. If only because the dust from it isn't as harmful.
 
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