Haziness after IPA wipedown

C

chris03tl

New member
Ive tried this a few times already....polish section, looks really nice. There is a little product leftover (Gtechniq P1), so I IPA wipe the section to clean it off. Looks fine.



Come back a few hours later, its all hazed over. If I repolish the section, even by hand, you can see its now crystal clear again and you can see the spot where I stopped re-polishing (because that part is still hazy).



Any ideas? The only thing I can think of is that my microfibers are contaminated somehow. Going to put them through a few more rinse cycles just to be sure.
 
GTechniq P1 is water soluble so an IPA wipe down is not needed.
chris01i30 said:
Ive tried this a few times already....polish section, looks really nice. There is a little product leftover (Gtechniq P1), so I IPA wipe the section to clean it off. Looks fine.



Come back a few hours later, its all hazed over. If I repolish the section, even by hand, you can see its now crystal clear again and you can see the spot where I stopped re-polishing (because that part is still hazy).



Any ideas? The only thing I can think of is that my microfibers are contaminated somehow. Going to put them through a few more rinse cycles just to be sure.
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I've tried removing P1 with a 12% alcohol solution and it seems like there is something remaining.



chris01i30- what dilution of alcohol are you using, what car is it (year, make, model, color)?
 
Did you wool pad this car? Or did you use a heavy cut compound? Is it black? We've found that even products that claim to have no silicone in them will still cover some haziness if they are not completely removed with an IPA. In our experience it is not the towel or a residue it is haze in the paint left behind in the compounding stage. I'm interested to hear if that's it for you or if it is another issue. Best case scenario it's something in the towel. Worst case go back with a light compound, then a mid polish with a mid pad, then light polish with finishing pad. We've had this issue with newer high gloss black Toyotas, but found that if we really break up the steps the final result is perfect.
 
I know P1 doesnt need an IPA wipe down, but I seem to be having some product left over/dusting, so I wanted everything completely clean before LSP.



Im using a 50/50 mix of IPA and water. I went with P1 on a 4" Excel Erasure light polish pad, followed up by a 5.5" Lake Country hydro tech crimson "ultra finish" pad. Then the IPA wipedown to remove any bits of leftover polish.



Doing this on a 2011 Infiniti G37, Malbec Black (basically black with maroon/purple metal flake)
 
Chris, I never IPA with P1 so I don't know about the hazing. Perhaps the alcohol is reacting with the P1.. dunno. After P1 I just do a wash and LSP.
chris01i30 said:
I know P1 doesnt need an IPA wipe down, but I seem to be having some product left over/dusting, so I wanted everything completely clean before LSP.



Im using a 50/50 mix of IPA and water. I went with P1 on a 4" Excel Erasure light polish pad, followed up by a 5.5" Lake Country hydro tech crimson "ultra finish" pad. Then the IPA wipedown to remove any bits of leftover polish.



Doing this on a 2011 Infiniti G37, Malbec Black (basically black with maroon/purple metal flake)
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Using a PC....want to learn rotary, but not on my shiny (well, sorta) new car.



Im not saying Im giving up, but I am starting over. Tomorrow Im going to give it another citrus wash at strip-wax levels, then Ill see what I have. If there is any haziness still present, I will re-polish. Cleaning all of the pads and rags tonight.



Ive had so much success working on other cars, I dont know why this is turning out to be such a nightmare. I figured P1 would be easier to work with than what I normally use (Poorboys SSR products), but no such luck so far.
 
I'd say it is the nissan paint - if you have been successfull on other colors and assuming that you used proper lighting to make sure that lighter colors don't hide the defects. m2c
 
5pointadam said:
Did you wool pad this car? Or did you use a heavy cut compound? Is it black? We've found that even products that claim to have no silicone in them will still cover some haziness if they are not completely removed with an IPA. In our experience it is not the towel or a residue it is haze in the paint left behind in the compounding stage. I'm interested to hear if that's it for you or if it is another issue. Best case scenario it's something in the towel. Worst case go back with a light compound, then a mid polish with a mid pad, then light polish with finishing pad. We've had this issue with newer high gloss black Toyotas, but found that if we really break up the steps the final result is perfect.
Click to expand...



Sorry I missed your reply.



The only thing Ive used on the car are 5.5" Lake Country Hydro Tech pads (orange "light cut" and red "ultra finish"), and 4" Excel Erasure (white "light polish", red "semi finish", black "ultra finish"). There were a few spots I went with a more aggressive 4" pad (yellow "cut"), but the haze is all over the car.



Interesting thing is that I spritzed a section of one panel with just water, then went at it with the white erasure pad. The P1 acted just like fresh product, I worked it in using fairly quick strokes, then wiped it down. Panel had zero haze left. Im wondering if there was still product left over causing the haze? Tomorrow Im going to wash the car and see what comes of it. If there is no haze left, then it was probably just leftover product. At this point Im not very confident thats the problem, but I guess its worth a shot.
 
Yeah, I saved my inherited 2001 i30 (ruby red metallic, so far from a light color).



Any suggestions on how to fix this? Really not happy right now, its not like the car is ruined, but starting with a brand new car it should be easier than this.
 
Well, things just got a little more complicated.



What looked like haziness actually seems to be micromarring. How, I do not know. New clean pads, new clean towels, etc. In the sun it looks hologramed, but since I havent hit it with a rotary, and nothing more aggressive than P1, Im not sure how it happened.



Now the big question is how I can get rid of it. I hit a small section with some more P1, did a quick pass back and forth. Wherever the P1 came off easily, it looks good. Where it did not, it looks "micromarred".



I wanted the car done this weekend, doesnt look like its going to happen, but any suggestions on OTC products to help out? M205 is now readily available so I can grab a quart of that if necessary.



Im really scared that I messed up the paint. Under halogens it looks like a little streaking/haze but out in the sun it looks like hologram hell.
 
D&D Auto Detail said:
If P1 is hard to remove then you did not break the polish down completely, or you used too much.
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P1 doesn't really break down as its already nano-sized particles.



As I said before, you don't need IPA when using P1 as P1 is water based, all you need is plain water.
 
I just went out and did a small test section. I let the polish work a little longer.....just until it almost started to get clear, and added a little more pressure. Before, I didnt let it get that far, as I didnt want to introduce marring from the product drying out. however, this time I may have gotten it. MOST of it came off quite easily, there are a few spots that did not, so I have to ask what to do about them.



The results are as expected. Pulled the car into the sun and you can see where I let the product go longer, crystal clear, right next to a section that wasnt done again and is still hologram-y.



So the only question left is what to do about small spots of product that didnt wipe off easily. I was worried I would streak the product across the completed section and maybe have to start over so I didnt want to spray water on them to wipe them down. Suggestions?
 
I didn't want to hurt your feeling before in case I came across judgmental, but my initial thought was that you may not have worked the polish long enough as you said you went "fast" back and forth. Slow down. The good thing is that if you perfect your game on black, all other colors will be easy. Invest in ez creme glaze as a final polish. It will clean the paint even if you skip wiping off the last polishing step. Detailing is like poker. You can learn it pretty quick, but it will take a lifetime to perfect. (I do not gamble)
 
tdekany said:
I didn't want to hurt your feeling before in case I came across judgmental, but my initial thought was that you may not have worked the polish long enough as you said you went "fast" back and forth. Slow down. The good thing is that if you perfect your game on black, all other colors will be easy. Invest in ez creme glaze as a final polish. It will clean the paint even if you skip wiping off the last polishing step. Detailing is like poker. You can learn it pretty quick, but it will take a lifetime to perfect. (I do not gamble)
Click to expand...



No hurt feelings here. I guess Im kind of re-learning things. I had no problem with the poorboys products on my i30 (which was still a very dark color), but P1 seems to be a new ball of wax. Im just glad I was able to get the results I want, even if it took longer, wasted product, etc. At least I learned. My goal is to stick with water based, because then I can go right to LSP (either Gtech C1 or C2)



As far as the video, its interesting to see that they didnt really run the product in very long, but they were also using a rotary which Im not. The best part was seeing the state of the product when they stopped. Not crystal clear, but just barely there. Also noticed they had marring leftover just like I did, which they said they would clean up with a finish pad. They were also using a much smaller section than I was, so I might cut down my section size (example: I was making my front drivers door 4 sections, now I will try making it 6 instead)
 
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