Having trouble with 2k grit

S

solekeeper

New member
Hey guys, been using HD cut and Adapt for my cutting purposes in the shop after we sand cars with 2k grit.


 


 


I'm using hd cut with my wool pad, but it's still taking forever to remove the defects. And i can still see hazing left behind..


 


 


 


I have a feeling i need something more abrasive, to really knock down the 2k grit marks and after that start refining. (I don't need 100 percent correction).


 


 


 


I'm looking to change HD out for maybe Menzerna? It needs to be body shop safe and not make a whole heap of dust. Those are my only requirements. Ideally, i'd like a componud (with wool) then a polish (with 2 foam pads) for darker colored cars, and done.


 


Possible?
 
What speed are you running your buffer? With the amorphous silica used today, vs the old crystiline silica, the abrasives break to quickly at any speed over 1750. 1200 to 1400 is better, other wise the particle break down quickly to a polishing size particle.


Another advantage of the lower speed is that you do not create excessive heat in the paint film. The new re-finish materials do not take kindly to skin temps about aprox 140F.
 
solekeeper said:
I have a makita, running it at level 2-3.


 


i use 2 when i foam... slower when finishing down.
Click to expand...


Don't know what that RPM would be. Give it a turning it down to your finishing speed and watch to see if it cuts better.
 
Menzerna FG400 will annihilate the 2k grit scratches and finish down nearly LSP ready.  That is my go-to when busting up really bad swirls and removing sanding scratches.  With a rotary, I cut at about 1200-1400 rpm and finish down at 1000.


 


- Patrick
 
HD Cut seems very pad-dependent; it wasn't nearly as aggressive (on normal marring, Audi clear) as I like with the foam and MF pads I used.  It was suggested that I use different pads.
 
pmnewton said:
Menzerna FG400 will annihilate the 2k grit scratches and finish down nearly LSP ready.  That is my go-to when busting up really bad swirls and removing sanding scratches.  With a rotary, I cut at about 1200-1400 rpm and finish down at 1000.


 


- Patrick


 


 


 


 


which wool pad would you reccomend?


 


I saw the FG, and i thought it sounded good.. i also saw menzerna has power gloss which has  4.5 cut according to their chart.


 


Does anyone else have thoughts on the FG400?  I don't want to waste money again. I need these sandscratches knocked OUT.
Click to expand...
 
solekeeper said:
 



which wool pad would you reccomend?


 


I saw the FG, and i thought it sounded good.. i also saw menzerna has power gloss which has  4.5 cut according to their chart.


 


Does anyone else have thoughts on the FG400?  I don't want to waste money again. I need these sandscratches knocked OUT.
Click to expand...


 


I have used Power Gloss before.  It does cut hard but doesn't break down well.  It leaves noticeable marring behind.  The FG400 cuts almost as hard but finishes down very nicely.  Most of my experience with FG400 has been on a rotary with a cyan Lake Country foam cutting pad.


 


- Patrick
 
pmnewton said:
I have used Power Gloss before.  It does cut hard but doesn't break down well.  It leaves noticeable marring behind.  The FG400 cuts almost as hard but finishes down very nicely.  Most of my experience with FG400 has been on a rotary with a cyan Lake Country foam cutting pad.


 


- Patrick


 


 


 


 


Thanks for the repsonse again, so since you say the fg400 cuts as hard as power gloss, maybe i can use the PG with wool and really hammer it. Then i figured i can keep my HD adapt to follow up.


 


Also one more question, have you use megs105? how does the cut compare to PG?
Click to expand...
 
Why would you want to "really hammer it" if it doesn't require that aggressive of an approach?  Always use the least aggressive approach that will do the job.  I have never used Megs 105.  I used to use Megs products because they were easy to get at the local parts store but once I switched to Menzerna, I never looked back.  Not even once.


 


- Patrick
 
well my main problem was that i'am unable to knock out the sanding marks in my first step.. (i know this is not 100 percent possible obviously) i just want to level them down, then refine with a polish and 2 pads.


 


 


i'm going to do a bit more research on FG


 


 


 


 


you did say cyan pad provided sufficient cutting needs, i don't know why i feel like the foam won't? lol
 
solekeeper said:
well my main problem was that i'am unable to knock out the sanding marks in my first step.. (i know this is not 100 percent possible obviously) i just want to level them down, then refine with a polish and 2 pads.


 


 


i'm going to do a bit more research on FG


 


 


 


 


you did say cyan pad provided sufficient cutting needs, i don't know why i feel like the foam won't? lol


 


 


I think you should be able to get a good result with any of these pads - a foamed wool pad, electrified sheepskin, or the black wool pad from micromesh.   Basically, any 100% wool pad that's not twisted.  As a rule,  I don't use foam pads for cutting sandpaper scratch, not because it can't be done, but because wool cuts faster and the swirl marks aren't a very demanding problem.


 


Robert
Click to expand...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top