It’s more likely that you may have a water “volume problem� which is causing lower than desired “water pressure�.
If you’re on well water your pressure switch is probable set close to a 60-40 pressure range, turning off after building about 60 lbs of pressure in your holding tank, and back on when enough water is drawn from the tank to reduce the pressure below 40 lbs.
Most new water pressure tanks for wells are called “bladder� tanks, the water is pumped into a rubber bladder inside the tank, and when the tank is empty of water it will still contain compressed air (should be 2 lbs less than the cut on setting of your pressure switch).
Because you can’t compress water, you’ll need to have the compressed air in the tank to receive maximum “draw-down� (draw-down = the total gallons of water you will get from the tank before your pump turns back on in it’s 40-60 pressure range).
All bladder tanks will lose some of their compressed air over time, the more air they lose, the more water they will require to build enough pressure to reach the cut-off setting (60 lbs), likewise the less compressed air they have (under their cut-on setting) the less water you will get from the tank (draw-down) before the pump is turned back on.
In extreme cases where little to no compressed air is in the tank, a few drops of water released from the tank is enough to cycle the pump on, this is known as “short-cycling� and will burn-out a pump’s motor pretty quickly.
If you have city or well water, any volume restriction can impact your “pressureâ€�…the most common volume restrictors that can be found on hose bibs are devices for backflow prevention (the thing that is screwed on the end of your hose bib that acts a check valve).
They can be removed easily if the setscrew is not broken off, not so easy if it has been set.
Other volume restrictors can be:
Long runs of small diameter hose or pipe.
Bad gate values.
Dirty inline filters.
Dirty hose screens.
Bad check values.
Bad hose bib.
Anyway…
RET