Hard time with polished wheels...better way than by hand?

C

Crazy Quattro

New member
I just bought new wheels but the owner before me didnt take care of them too well.



Well i picked up some mothers billet metal polish, works great! But it takes a good amount of rubbing to get out the mess.I just use a mircofiber towel to put and take off. Took me an hour just to do one wheel and my hand is killing me.



Is there an easier way to do this?



Wheel is polished with a clearcoat if that helps. :)

You can see around the rivets how its sorta damaged. It comes off just takes a lot of rubbing.

http://www.acurainspired.com/gallery/data/7ef605fc8dba5425d6965fbd4c8fbe1f/986_p37406.jpeg
 
If the wheel is clearcoated, you don't want to use a metal polish on them.

Use a paint polish just like you'd use on your paint. You could also try a paint cleaner like Klasse AIO to clean them up.

And don't forget to seal them afterward to keep them from getting real dirty in the future.
 
I did try Klasse AIO but it didnt help too much. It smoothed it out but it didnt take out some of the marks like the metal polish did.
 
are those Iforged wheels, they look nice. I didnt think the Iforged wheels came clear coated thats why they dull so quick. Mothers Mag polish works well but does require some rubbing
 
6']['9 said:
are those Iforged wheels, they look nice. I didnt think the Iforged wheels came clear coated thats why they dull so quick. Mothers Mag polish works well but does require some rubbing
Click to expand...



im pretty sure they are clearcoated, the rag turned back when i put on the metal polish... :nixweiss



I will try the wheel cleaner, but would wheel cleaner work even if the metal polish hardly gets it off?
 
The black on the rag is likely aluminum that's been removed by the polish, suggesting the wheels are not clear-coated. Aluminum, like many metals, is black when in a finely divided form.
 
black rag=non-clear coated, no color change=clear coated



I'm currently contemplating the best way to polish my wheels. Previously, I'd polish them by hand with metal polish and a cotton cloth, and the aluminum would look good for a bit, but soon look more scratched. Recently, I've taken my rotary polisher with a 6" pad to my 14" wheels, and while it worked, the pad seemed a bit big for this particular task. ;) In fact, it worked particularly well, so I searched for something smaller. I found some 3" foam pads that attach to a drill at top of the line.com.



to clean up some spots I couldn't get in with my 6" rotary pad, I went at it with a foam applicator and the Hi-Temp Light Cut which I had used with the polisher as well. Although it took a while, I was able to polish the aluminum and got good results.



It looks like your wheels would be more difficult to polish with a 3" pad, but it would probably help and you could follow up in some spots by hand.



If you have a drill, it might be worth your $10 or $20 (depending on the number of pads you get and shipping, etc.) to get some stuff from TOL.

2638tn_img_0578-med.jpg
 
Ok so im not clearcoated and its ok to use metal polish on them?



If thats the case, then i shouldnt add Klasse AIO onto them either?



Freakin A this is confusing.
 
I'm going to confuse you more, okay? :sosad



Black can come from all the crud you're cleaning off with the polish.



If you polish an area that you already have clean, and it still comes out black, then its certainly NOT clearcoated.



When you polish something that is clearcoated, the part of the clearcoat you are removing is clear, thus your cloth is clear, simple as that. :)



-For built up brake dust, a good wheel cleaner should be used.

-For crud that the wheel cleaner can't remove, and if the metal is dull and needs polishing, a paint or metal polish should be used.



If Mothers Billet Metal Polish is working, I won't suggest anything else. I feel the Billet Polish is probably a better cleaner than Klasse AIO. Once you get the wheels Clean with Billet, then Protect them with AIO and/or another good sealant.



Sorry I can't write Short and Clear responses...I'm hoping to take some Technical Writing courses in college.
 
Ah, and wheel cleaner....I'll leave that to someone else, I haven't used anything on my aluminum wheels that didn't leave them dull after a while. Car soap and water are probably best along with a soft soft soft brush. I suppose I would probably spray stronger wheel/tire cleaner on the inside part of the wheel, and the tire, but clean the shiny face of the wheel with soap and water.



please note, I give advice with good intentions, but usually don't care/have enough time to 'do as I say'.



You're welcome, I hope it helps you with your very nice new wheels!
 
I've bought a little multi tool (like a dremel) with some buffing/ polishing tips for polished lips on my wheels.

Certainly works better than doing it by hand..... £30 ($45) well spent :).
 
What about P21S polishing soap. I'm very interested in comments from those that have used it for a while
 
Aluminium Wheel Polishing:

Uncoated (to test apply a mild polish, if the applicator turns black there is no clear coat or paint finish) if the wheels are clear coated see Cleaning Wheels and Tyres



Methodology:

·Ensure wheels and rotors are cool before applying cold water as this may cause the rotors warp. Hose off as much initial grime as you can. Rinse up into the wheel well to wash away road kill, mud and other debris.

·Use detailing clay to remove any imbedded contaminants

·Note- Clay is not recommended on wheels that do not have a factory clear coat or powder coat finish

·Remove road tar with a solvent

·Remove surface brake dust with a 100% acid-free and neutral pH wheel cleaner (P21S Wheel Cleaner) Agitate with a soft boarâ€â„¢s hair wheel brush and rinse with low-pressure clean water

·Magnesium or aluminium wheels can be polished with a water-soluble polish (Happich Semichrome Polish)

·For difficult to reach places use a felt polishing buffer on an electric drill (Dremal or Groit's Felt Polishing Cone Set)

·Apply a polymer sealant for long lasting protection (Zoopseal or Klasse All-In-One)





Polish Buffers-

Mushroom shaped buffers (with a ¼-inch mandrel) allow you to access tight spaces; these buffing wheels have fine-weave cotton, mushroom-shape that works faster than conventional felt bobs and also lasts longer. The 1/4" smooth shaft resists slipping in your drill chuck while its plastic ferrule prevents scratching the recessed areas of your work piece. The Facer Buffs are used for getting into tighter areas, 1, and 2 or 3-inch sizes available. (Eastwood's Mushroom Buff)

JonM



ZoopSeal



Other information resources- Eastwood Company, Caswell Plating Company
 
I would try a wheel cleaner like P21S to see how it works for your problem. P21S can tackle some major grime on wheels.



And since your wheels AREN'T clearcoated, feel free to use the Mothers metal polish all you want. That's good stuff.
 
Your best bet will be to remove and restore the wheels one at a time:



!) Remove from vehicle

2) Wash the front and back side with a safe wheel cleaner and a soft brush

3) Dry

4) Use a mechanical device like our PowerBall or the Flitz ball with some metal polish and a drill

5) Wipe the residue off with a microfiber towel

6) Repeat with a finer grade of polish for an even higher shine



The black is from a chemical reaction between the nickel present in aluminum and the chemicals in the polish. It means your rims are not clearcoated.
 
You may want to try the new Mother's PowerBall. I saw a demonstration at a car show and it seemed to work very well.
 
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