Gonna use the rotary for the first time tomorrow.

superchargedg

superchargedg

Twin Turbos
After using the flex 3401 for quite awhile i am going to try my cheap chicago rotary.I have pretty bad cobwebs on the hood so i was thinking of useing a pfw with some m105 i just got or do you think i should start with something less agressive.The flex hardly did anything with pfw and menz ip the last time i tried it and the painter said the hood has rock hard paint.

Give me some suggestions guys as this will be the first time with the rotary.:waxing:
 
I started using my Makita a while back. Not that hard. Just pay close attention to what your doing, keep speed down and just try to get a feel for how it operates. It is not as scary as it sounds.
 
To get the feel of it I would not start with M105. Its very aggressive and you have to work it at a minimum of 1500rpm for it to be effective which isnt ideal for a first go with your rotary, plus it just flashes way to quickly. Start off with a something milder like 106FF, its great to use because it has a long work time and you can see the stages of breakdown. Spread it slow and just work your way up to no more than about 1200rpm I would say. Move up to SIP or something equal if you need more cut.
 
Well after about 4 hours with the different steps all i can say is wow.I have never seen a polish flash faster then m105.I was using a cheap chicago rotary but it did not matter as the m105 flashed after about 15-20 seconds.

I went after it at about 1200rpm and i was using the rotary for the first time and i could not believe how fast this compound flashed.I will say in the short time i was able to use it i got about 90% correction on only 1 pass as i was a little chicken to do 2 passes.I did use a PFW pad with the rotary and used a lc white with po85d to get rid of the nasty holograms with my flex 3401.
 
Chicago Rotary FTW. Its the same RPM range as all other rotaries, and same voltage. Its just not made for commercial use.......
 
dsms said:
To get the feel of it I would not start with M105. Its very aggressive and you have to work it at a minimum of 1500rpm for it to be effective which isnt ideal for a first go with your rotary, plus it just flashes way to quickly. Start off with a something milder like 106FF, its great to use because it has a long work time and you can see the stages of breakdown. Spread it slow and just work your way up to no more than about 1200rpm I would say. Move up to SIP or something equal if you need more cut.
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*Very* much agree with this. Start with something as mild as you can. Even something like FPII which is milder than 106 (and a bit easier to use), on either black/blue/red finishing foam, or (you know it's coming...) Edge white finishing wool.



Don't worry about trying to perform any correction/polihsing/glossing. Just get the polish on the car and start using the buffer. You can do *many, many, many* passes with a polish like 106 or FPII and a finishing pad without ever worrying about the clear coat thickness. Just keep the RPM around 1k, and practice getting the buffer going where you want it to. Don't let it be the boss. It's all about keeping the weight evenly distributed on the pad. If it's not, it'll try and move one way or another all by itself. Once you get to the point where you have *complete* control over the buffer, and it's not hopping, and you know about how much polish is right, what it looks like when it's broken down, and when to remove it, you'll be ready to move up to a real medium duty polilsh. I still wouldn't jump to a true compound, and I *really* wouldn't jump straight to M105. Remember that stuff gives the *pros* a hard time. Get to know the buffer first. Take a few middle weight compounds for a test drive, then you could move up to 105, but I'd take some time (an hour or two) to read everything you can find about how to use it first.
 
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