Gonna Start Over - ?'s

norahcrv

I wish . . .
I'm facing a 4 day weekend and thought I would use it to re-do my cars. I have an '04 Honda CR-V and an '85 Civic Wagon. Both are "beige" in colour, although the V is metallic, where the wagon is not.

Neither one has been washed since Memorial Day weekend, but I've been maintaining them with weekly S & W, followed by QD+ every other week.

It hurts my eyes to look at them in the direct sun, and the garage lights don't show any swirls, nor does the portable halogen work light. Is it possible that I've managed to avoid the swirl scourge?

Here's my plan of attack:
Wash w/Mullet Wash (or Megs GC wash)
Clay
Mullet Wash again
PB SSR1 w/ PC & Megs Yellow polishing pad
PB PwC w/ PC & Megs Yellow polishing pad
PB Ex-P w/PC & Megs Tan finishing pad
wait 24 hours & re-apply, repeat after another 24 hours. Is it advisable to use the PC for these subsequent coats, or should I do them by hand?

If time permits, I might top with Natty's, but may hold off until our weather is consistantly below 100*.

Or if it arrives in time, I'll try the Liquid Souveran as a LSP. And substitute their Swirl Removers for the SSR as needed.

I'd like to make them as deep and reflective as possible on a light colour, in addition to giving the paint as much protection as possible.


Any suggestions / improvements would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks a lot,

Norah

PS - Sorry, just noticed how long this is!
 
Shine a flasklight up close on it at night. You can see swirls that way. Or a single incandescent bulb overhead in an otherwise dark garage.
 
What ever you do , don't forget some pics . :bigups Have fun ! Happy detailing

Oh yeah I forgot to add. Before & After's please .
 
On Honda paint, I doubt it, but who knows. You could try the halogens in a garage or try some sunglasses. :) I would be willing to bet that there is at least some minor marring just from touching the paint.

Your plan sounds great to me!!!

I would apply the subsequent layers of EX-P by hand.

PICS!!!!!

Have fun!!
 
Thanks guys, I will try to get some pics, but I'm not very good with the digital camera. I'll try to get my son to take some tomorrow night before I start.

Also, any tips for my first usage of the PC? Besides start with a car I don't care about - not an option!

I'll try the flashlight in the garage tonight.

Norah
 
norahcrv,

I think your plan sounds very good. I agree with the others though............ if you are going to apply multiple layers of LSP's, I would only apply the first coat with the PC......... next layers by hand.

On my wife's 04' white CRV, she likes SSR1 followed by EX-P! :bigups
 
One last (maybe) question - I don't have a leaf blower - has anyone tried a hair blow dryer on low heat to blow the water out of the crevices, etc. to prevent drips? Any thoughts or alternate suggestions?
 
I wouldn't use a hair dryer............ it would take too long, and might heat the paint up a little too much!
 
Norah - Do you have an air compressor? You can try that instead of a leaf blower to push water out of crevices.
 
Great idea, Marj, but I only have a "battery driven, tire inflater" thingy. I don't know if there's anyway to get a "good flow of air out of it - enough to force water out of the crevices.
If I have a chance tomorrow, I'm going to stop by WalMart and check out their $20 blower. You'd think that "drips" wouldn't be such a problem here in the desert, but they still happen!
Norah

PS - It finally rained on my V tonight - first time since before Memorial Day - PB (PwC, EX-P maintained with bi-weekly QD+) is beading beautifully!! But I'm still going to redo it all this weekend with the PC!
 
You shouldn't need to use anything to blow the water out of the cracks. Just open the trunk and get a towel or absorber or something and wipe them out. Its as easy as that. I've never used a leaf blower on my car and I've never had a drip. I dry the whole thing. Every part of it. That includes the trunk and door jambs. If you dry those areas then you don't have much to worry about. The only spot left that water could hide is around the door handles.
 
I always have some water drips coming out of the mirror housing, license plate brackets, and vent trim. However, I don't usually go through the trouble of using any "air power" for drying. I open all the doors (including the hood and trunk lid), dry all the accessible areas with a MF work towel, then close all the doors. The act of closing the doors will jar much of the remaining water out of the crevices. I'll follow up with a quick pass with a waffle weave towel to soak up the errant drips.
 
Thanks Marj & Fuzz,
I never used to "blow them out", but reading on here, it seemed that "everybody" does. Glad to hear that is not the case - I really don't need to spend any more money right now, so I'll go with your recommended method.
Norah
 
OK - one MORE question . . .

before I start:
Will the washing & claying remove all old product, or should I AIO after the wash after the claying?
Thanks,
Norah
 
Re: OK - one MORE question . . .

norahcrv said:
before I start:
Will the washing & claying remove all old product, or should I AIO after the wash after the claying?
Thanks,
Norah
Are you still planning to go the SSR1, PwC, EX-P route? If so, you don't need to use AIO. SSR1 will remove previous products.
 
Thanks, I just finished washing & it DOES need claying(did the "baggie" test), so we're waiting for it to cool off in the garage before we start that. In the meantime, Bryce is washing the "practice" hood in prep for PC practice. I think we'll try the AIO on that first. Then the Pinnacle products . . .
 
norahcrv said:
Thanks, I just finished washing & it DOES need claying(did the "baggie" test), so we're waiting for it to cool off in the garage before we start that. In the meantime, Bryce is washing the "practice" hood in prep for PC practice. I think we'll try the AIO on that first. Then the Pinnacle products . . .
Are you using the new Pinnacle swirl removers? If so, I would think that they should also be able to remove old products. AIO might not be necessary here either.
 
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