Going to need some help with this one

W

wizardofahs

New member
Ok... well I made a post on the local import club's board to see if anyone had a car with color they might want some help with. A guy with a 91 talon responded. As you can see, the hood is pretty bad:



hood1.jpg


hood2.jpg


hood3.jpg




He sent me those pics and asked if there was anything I could do. As of now i'm not sure. It looks like it's really really oxidized. I'm wondering if there might be some good paint underneeth that. If anything it obviously isn't a show car, and it'd be pretty hard to mess it up any. If even a little progress could be made (like bringing some of the color back) i'd be up for it. What do you guys think? Has anyone tried something like this before? Do you think it will it be a PC + AIO, DACP + Rotary, or Rubbing compound kind of job?



Anyone have any advice? He's allready considering getting the whole thing repainted, but it'd be fun to see if there is any of this thats salvageable.
 
MMmmmmmm That looks like a great project car. AIO would probley work pretty good on it. But abrasives Would Also I think Diamond Cut with a rotary followed by DACP and AIO would make it look new. There was a Black Pick up someone posted with half the hood done looked like glass the other was heavly oxidized.
 
That's not even washed!



Well, what I'd do on that:



After washing, AIO! Yes, clean it!.

Then, clay and only then evaluate the condition.

Either heavy or moderate cut and then polish and all.
 
Where do you guys get your diamond cut and DACP from?



Haven't tried the rotary yet, but getting ready to. I have Menzerna, and just ordered some of the real abrasive 1z stuff. Think i might as well get DACP and Diamond cut while i'm at it and give them all a shot.



I was disapointed it wasn't washed too... the owner just took the pics and emailed them...
 
If you notice, the hood is damaged, but the tops of the fenders are not. Also, the milky white color is not consistant on the hood, the nose has much much less. This makes me wonder if this concern is an actual probem with the film build, and not oxidized.



It's impossible for me to tell without seeing the vehicle, but it's something to think about.
 
yea, it also looks like the paint is very dry. I had this problem with another older car that saw a lot of sun. The water would absorb into the paint and leave discollored spots that would evaporate. Same thing with products. He also said he tried some wax and stuff that just 'stained' the paint. Will definatly be an interesting one to work on.



I haven't seen it in person yet myself, thinking about giving it a shot in a week or two.



The film could be the attempt he made at waxing it last... maybe some dawn and hot water or clay will get it out.
 
First, about AIO, do a search for a thread by Jngrbrdman with these keywords in the search box: "power + aio". His results on a hideously oxidized red truck, using AIO, were truly astounding.



On the other hand, I recently acquired a 1970 Kharmann Ghia that was similar -- it was pink instead of red, and I expected it would require a new paint job. But BradB recently taught me how to use a PC, and I went at it with the PC, cutting pad, and 3M's Heavy Cut Rubbing Compound. I'm astonished at the gloss I have already (and I haven't yet moved down to less-abrasive polishes). But this was an old car, I was willing to cut the paint pretty agressively, feeling there really wasn't anything to lose.



jgv said:
Well, what I'd do on that:

After washing, AIO! Yes, clean it!.

Then, clay and only then evaluate the condition.

Either heavy or moderate cut and then polish and all.
Click to expand...

Hmmmm ... not sure I agree with the order of the process here, jgv. In general, I wash, then clay, then polish. How come you're suggesting AIO before clay? (That's NOT a flame -- just looking for more insight into processes and the thinking behind them.)
 
I might be able to answer that one, Lynn. What I have found on heavily oxidized cars is that claying is ineffective, because everything is rough. So you can't tell whether you are lifting anything or not. If you polish first, then clay, the paint will be smoother, and the oxidization removed, so the clay can do its job better.
 
Oh! I think I understand now. When I tackled the hideous Ghia, I realized the paint was so TERRIBLE :shocked that there really was no point in claying. Went right to RC instead. So I guess this is a case where you let the paint condition tell you to deviate from the process we use on reasonably-decent paint.

Thanks for the course-correction.
 
you said you've ordered the strong stuff from 1Z; do you mean the Ultra Polish? that's not exactly the strongest they've got. they've got some other stuff that's available only to professional detailing businesses. since i have both and have used both with a pc and rotary i'm here to tell you the Ultra Polish IMO works better. however, if you use the stronger stuff by hand it works wonders. not sure why it doesn't seem to work well with the pc or rotary. anyway, for something that bad i would suggest 2 coats of the Ultra Polish before adding a pure polish and then a protectant. for the 1st pass with the ultra polish i'd use a wool bonnet on a pc or a cutting pad on a rotary. 2nd step use a cutting pad on either machine based on results of your 1st pass. that hood looks really bad and i'm not sure you'll be able to make it look brnad new, but i've got no doubt you'll be able to get the color back with the 1Z product.
 
Yea, I ordered the Ultra Paint Polish from David. I have the other 3 1z polishes, but figured they wouldn't be as strong. Does anyone happen to know wich of the 4 polishes from 1z (the ones David carries) is comparable to AIO in agressivness?
 
Wow interesting info from everyone in this thread, thanks. :cool:



Is that car clear coated? I also noticed the fender difference, and hope that's not some kind of clear coat failure... Here's hoping there's some good paint still left under that mess, good luck Dr.Jones!
 
Dr. Jones said:
Yea, I ordered the Ultra Paint Polish from David. I have the other 3 1z polishes, but figured they wouldn't be as strong. Does anyone happen to know wich of the 4 polishes from 1z (the ones David carries) is comparable to AIO in agressivness?
Click to expand...



Neither. AIO cleans with it's solvents while the 1Z are polishes with abrasives on them.

I still thing there would be a great change just for washing.
 
Personally, I would attack that with a Light to medium cut cleaner, DACP (Swirl Removal), AIO (Final Polishing Step). But I do agree that a rotary might be necessary for something like that.
 
I'll toss in another plug for the 1z Ultra Polish. I think you'll be very impressed with it. The 1z line handles oxidation very, very well. I had a dark burgundy Camry a couple weeks ago that that had oxidation all over (not was bad as that one though :eek: ). Anyway, even with the CMA white pad (my yellow cutting pad decided to seperate from its velcro backing that morning :mad: ) the Ultra polish took all the oxidation off easily. Give it a shot before you buy anything else. I'd start with a cutting pad and work up to a wool if necessary. Follow with the 1z Paint Polish. Post pics!



Mike
 
Find a local auto paint store and get some heavy cut cleaner and I think the yellow pad on PC should be ok. You are going to have to clean the pad out a lot though.
 
it seems best to go with AIO first on a heavily oxidized finish then go from there. It might depending on the car be better to clean the paint and then clay.
 
I have to agree with 4DSC-looks like clearcoat failure to me. If that is the case (and I am pretty sure it is), the hood is a lost cause and only repainting will fix it.
 
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