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turbochargedv8

New member
hello all

Im new to the auto detailing scene and im hoping to learn the basics and the proper technique. Let me first start off by explaining the situation i got myself in. I just bought a car thats been sitting for a while which has medium oxidation and water spots.

I would like to think of myself as mechanicly inclined but when it comes to auto detailing im in over my head as i came to realize the hard way:wall. I ran out to autozone and picked up a 7'' sander/polisher which appears to be made by great neck. It came with a backing pad and bonnet which didnt work to great.

I then ordered a hook and loop backing plate and these expensive foam pads from auto geek but have yet to try them out due to the fact that im not even sure if i should use this circular polisher or something else.

Im in need of some good direction tips and information to bring this paint back. Im ready to slow down and get the tools and preperation to do this thing right.

:thanks
 
Welcome to the site from Sonoma County CA


When you say sander and polisher...I don't think this is a orbital buffer..like a porter cable or is it?....Once we know that then some suggestions can take place...sounds like you are going to need to clay, or use a paint cleaner...maybe both..depending on how bad it is....some pics would also be helpful!
 
You really should practice using a rotary polisher before using it on a car you care about.

Oxidation and water spots can usually be handled with a dual action polisher which is much easier and safer to start out with.

Popst some pics if you can. i would like to see what your talking about.
 
I am thinking you picked up one of the random orbit polishers that you can;t change pads and such on. I could be wrong, but without some clarification I don't think anyone is going to be able to help regarding that.
 
Welcome to DC! You will learn tons of stuff here. If you could send some pics of your paint I'm sure that us folks here could help you with you pad/product selection.:)
 
I just took a few pictures of the paint and they may help. I just bought this camera and im still learning. With the flash the water spots and oxidation don't show up to well but here they are. Let me know if you all will need better pics.
hj.jpg

Picture006.jpg

Picture008.jpg

Picture003.jpg
 
turbochargedv8 said:
Here is a picture of the polisher i was using
http://i364.photobucket.com/albums/oo87/turbochargedv8/Picture004.jpg
Heres the compounds
http://i364.photobucket.com/albums/oo87/turbochargedv8/Picture005.jpg
New pads and backing plate i bought
http://i364.photobucket.com/albums/oo87/turbochargedv8/Picture006-1.jpg
http://i364.photobucket.com/albums/oo87/turbochargedv8/Picture007.jpg
Click to expand...


Your using a rotary...and the new attachments are solid!

The rotary is one of my go to tools in detailing...the better you get at it the more that you will use it

I would start to read up about some of the higher end compounds / swirls removers on this site...you'll get better results with the machine...
 
That looks like sulfur deposits to me and an acid treatment would probably be the quickest easiest way to deal with them.

This is what I use - Four Star ACC

It should do the job dilluted about 4:1 with water. Wear gloves. Apply it with something that won't scratch like a microfiber towel or pad. Do sections at a time rinsing well as you go. Allow it to dwell on the surface about 30 seconds. Do a final wipe and then a thorough rinse. It is possible to haze the windshield so I would stick to polishing that with a compound or something like this - DP Glass Restorer

This will not hurt your car as long as you do it section at a time and rinse well as you go. Then I would use a DA polisher or work on it by hand. The rotary needs to be practiced with before you use it on your car.;)
 
Thanks for all the help
I've noticed on the roof of my car has what appears to be cracked paint or something maybe someone can identify what this is and what its from and if theres anything i can go thanks
IMG_0025_1.jpg

IMG_0026_2.jpg
 
The pictures are a little sketchy but that would appear to be the clear coat failing. Unfortunately should that be the case all of the polishes/polishers, waxes and sealants can't return it to its previous condition. The end result of a clear coat that has failed is a repaint. That doesn't mean that you can't both practice on this vehicle and do some serious clean up on it that will still allow you to be proud of it until the repaint comes.
 
It looks like crow's feet to me, it might need to be repaint, but it's hard to tell from the picture. and also Welcome to DC!
 
zoomzoom mazda5 said:
It looks like crow's feet to me, it might need to be repaint, but it's hard to tell from the picture. and also Welcome to DC!
Click to expand...
Crows feet? As in a lacquer finish? That's a term I don't hear used much anymore but back in the day it was used to describe a single stage lacquer job where the paint or the underlying prep had shrunk. I've also seen this happen in Imron paint when the primer/filler would shrink literally within days of the paint job. When I saw this condition the paint would flake very easily and very soon after the paint was applied.
 
Your right GH, but It still happens on all finishes these days. Some call it Clear coat failure, cracking or checking. They are so many names , but it sure looks like it needs to be repainted to me.
 
Welcome to detailcity from Etters PA. I have learned a whole lot at this site,but as all the book knowlege was helpful and necessary I still had to make a few mistakes and learn from them. If I had it to do over I would have posted about the things I was about to try and get some experienced warnings about the possible outcome. I was told cracked paint that resembles an eggshell after being rolled around on a hard surface is called checking and was told to cut my losses but I just would'nt listen so I wetsanded through the clearcoat and the basecoat to discover that the checking actually was clean into the primer. I should have took the advise given me as that mistake cost me about as much as I charged to do the detail in the first place. I was able to correct the damage that I caused to the point that it looks better than it did with the checking but it took several return trips to the customers home and about $50 worth of color matched paint and clearcoat. I listen a bit more clearly to these guys now. Pain is the touchstone to all growth but I will get an old fender to practice with when I buy my rotary polisher.
 
i washed the car yesterday and new water spots appeared after it all was dry even in spots i polished by hand (im still waiting to buy the da polisher) i washed more than one car in my driveway yesterday and this is the only car getting these spots? whats the deal ?
 
Did you dry the other cars faster? Did you use something different?

Sometimes a well waxed car will bead better and beading can leave spots because the water remains on the surface longer and dust can collect within the bead so when it dries you are left with some spots.

Even with spot free water you can get that. It doesn't hurt the car and a quick wipe with a quick detailer will take care of them.
 
:howdythe car that got the water spots was waxed the others were not also i did not dry the cars by hand i let them air dry
should i be hand dring these cars
 
turbochargedv8 said:
:howdythe car that got the water spots was waxed the others were not also i did not dry the cars by hand i let them air dry
should i be hand dring these cars
Click to expand...
Most definitely if you are having a water spot problem. Most can't get away with an air dry unless they are using softened water.
 
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