geographical area temps vs product effectiveness

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dtailmycar

New member
Hey all I've been reading on this site for about a year now trying to understand the art of detailing and apply it to my cars. Problem is I've spend a lot of money into some detailing tools but haven't got the result many of you achieve with lot less effort. Then I started asking myself what might be the problem?. I'm a PC user, so I've tried everything, slow passes, pressure, pads, 4'' YELLOW pads, IP, SSR2.5,HT EC, EVEN 3M RB, and I haven't got anything acceptable. Then I got some halogen light to track up better my work and I can't see how to position them to actually see the defects on my paint.



I live in Puerto Rico so its pretty much 85+temps all year long here, so may that be the problem? that my products just get too hot and liquid to work properly? I've downloaded many pc demo videos and found nothing different to what I'm doing. My cars are pretty beaten up from past owners but they still have a LOT of potential based on what I've seen in here (achieved with pc and similar products), so I don't know what else to try. I'm to the point of quitting and selling all my stuff and just live with local tunnel washes. Please any given help would be much appreciated, thx !!



WHat I have to tackle the swirls and scratches <pc, 6'' green, 4'' yellow, ssr2.5, IP, HTEC

Cars to work with: 2006 Mitsu Outlander light green, 1991 Corolla wine red
 
Give us a example of a detail job you did (pic's will help and the process) and from there maybe someone can help you in your detailing. The heat is not the total factor, because it's summer and a lot of folks are doing it and got great results........Angelo...from...Hatillo
 
Yes, I know the problem.



Here in Hungary we have a lot more diesel cars than in the US, so for example I have to use double strength ONR to have the necessary lubricity & cleaning power, because the road grime is so much more stubborn.



Sometimes polishes are *weaker* here... When Menz 3.02 can not remove the tiny swirls from a BMW E39's roof with wool... When Meg's #85 is too weak to remove (even to touch) a 2000 grit sanding mark from a repainted Jaguar with their W4000 wool pad and rotary - operated by the importer of Megs himself... (At least Megs has different formulas for different markets. Their FE code indicates products for the Far East.)



Brake dust on BMW wheels where corrosive alkaline cleaners are like tap water..., and when you try to scratch the black crusty spot with a knife, it just laughs at you. Yes, I know situations like this...



However, I have no idea what conditions causing these. One thing is sure: certain environments, combined with "artistic" neglect often producing cars which are more or less un-cleanable...
 
it depends on what products you use. Some polishes flash really fast in warm humid conditions. You just can't work them long enough for optimal results. Some sealants can also be a bit tricky in overly humid weather.
 
Looks like you have only some heavier cutting polishes and pads (from what you listed) and those are fine for cutting down the scratches but you need to finish with a white or green pad and some milder polish to finish down any marring caused by the agressive efforts.



We know all about humidity in west central FL and the only issue I have at times is with LSP curing or drying out to buff off.
 
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