G35 repaint

M

Marj

New member
I'm picking up my G35 from the body shop today. I had the quarter panel repainted because I dropped my rotary on it.

I read many times that I should wait 60 to 90 days before I wax or use any kind of sealant, but the body shop said its not necessary to wait that long. They said it would be fine after 2 weeks. It seems contradictory but I think to be on the safe side I am going to wait 60 days.

I wonder why there is this large discrepancy?
 
bcgreen said:
I'm picking up my G35 from the body shop today. I had the quarter panel repainted because I dropped my rotary on it.

I read many times that I should wait 60 to 90 days before I wax or use any kind of sealant, but the body shop said its not necessary to wait that long. They said it would be fine after 2 weeks. It seems contradictory but I think to be on the safe side I am going to wait 60 days.

I wonder why there is this large discrepancy?
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Because the body shop guy doesn't care. He is finished with the job and could not care less what you do with it once he gives it back. On the other hand, he may just not know any better. Wait 90 days no matter how painful it is. I have a black G35 and I had some repaint done. It almost physically hurt me to wait, but I did. One last comment: Don't use Megs Ultimate Quick Detailer on it until the 90 days passes. Mike Phillips from Megs told me that, so I'll believe him.
 
bcgreen said:
I'm picking up my G35 from the body shop today. I had the quarter panel repainted because I dropped my rotary on it.

I read many times that I should wait 60 to 90 days before I wax or use any kind of sealant, but the body shop said its not necessary to wait that long. They said it would be fine after 2 weeks. It seems contradictory but I think to be on the safe side I am going to wait 60 days.

I wonder why there is this large discrepancy?
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I had my G35 driver's door and rear bumper repainted and was told I could wax right away and I did. In fact I polished both within a week and had no problems. Body shop said it was heat backed and the paint would cure in a couple of days. I took his word and I guess he was right.
 
I would wait at least 4 weeks, maybe 6 if I could hold out that long. There's more than just paint that needs time to "gas-off" and "cure" ... there's the filler under all that that needs to gas off too. If you close it all up, it can't gas off and you're certain to see the body-filler distortions telegraph through the paint within a year.

You could use 'glaze' on the paint weekly - it doesn't offer nearly the protection of wax or sealant, but it will help prevent any acid-rain and/or other contaminants from etching into the paint.

Wait it out ... it's worth it in the long run.
 
Saintlysins said:
I would wait at least 4 weeks, maybe 6 if I could hold out that long. There's more than just paint that needs time to "gas-off" and "cure" ... there's the filler under all that that needs to gas off too. If you close it all up, it can't gas off and you're certain to see the body-filler distortions telegraph through the paint within a year.

You could use 'glaze' on the paint weekly - it doesn't offer nearly the protection of wax or sealant, but it will help prevent any acid-rain and/or other contaminants from etching into the paint.

Wait it out ... it's worth it in the long run.
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I have some 3M Perfectit III, would that be safe?
 
bcgreen said:
I have some 3M Perfectit III, would that be safe?
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Which PI-III? There are a scad of different products in that line.



As for how long to wait, I've experienced *significantly* increased hardness after more than two months. Most recently on baked Spiess-Hecker paint. By four months it's rock-hard, so I wait. Glasurit and others never get quite that hard for me, but I sure wouldn't want them turning out *softer* than they might otherwise be so again, I wait.



Opinions vary on this subject, but *I* want my paint as hard as it can get and I won't do anything that might interfere with that, even if the chances of interference are remote. I just apply Meg's #5 after each wash.
 
“ACCUMULATORâ€� has a valid question to your question … but to generalize, if it’s Imperial Hand Glaze, Perfect-It 3000 Final Glaze or the Polishing Pad Glaze, you should be fine as they’re all wax and silicone free. Make sure it says ‘glaze’ in the title. Only apply by hand.

I also agree with the point about the longer you wait the better the longer term results will be.

Hope this helps.
 
I will have to check which PerfectIT III that I have. When I went to pick it up the car, the body shop was applying a BlueCoral glaze by hand. Never heard of it, but he recommended not to wash the car for two weeks, and then to bring it back and then they would buff it out. I am with you guys and would like to wait, so I will have to talk with him and see if he is okay with me bringing it back a little later than two weeks. What I might do is dust the car with distilled water and microfiber towels every couple of days. I know I will introduce fine scratches but thats better than letting dust and dirt sit on the paint for a prolong period of time.
 
I agree with your procedure – although I don’t think you have to go as far as paying for distilled water when you’ll be drying the car immediately afterward. Don’t be scared of cleaning the car. Your objective is only to let the newly finished areas gas-off and harden without hindrance.



I suggest using a mild car wash/shampoo as well. These products are designed to separate bond, making it easier for dirt to be removed. Just using water (distilled or hose) isn’t going to break those bonds and may add to micro-marring of the paint. Getting the body panel dry before water dries on the surface will be all you need to do until the final buffing and application of wax and or sealers.
 
bcgreen said:
I will have to check which PerfectIT III that I have. When I went to pick it up the car, the body shop was applying a BlueCoral glaze by hand. Never heard of it, but he recommended not to wash the car for two weeks, and then to bring it back and then they would buff it out. I am with you guys and would like to wait, so I will have to talk with him and see if he is okay with me bringing it back a little later than two weeks. What I might do is dust the car with distilled water and microfiber towels every couple of days. I know I will introduce fine scratches but thats better than letting dust and dirt sit on the paint for a prolong period of time.
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I'm gonna risk sounding like a pessemistic [jerk] and wonder out loud whether he doesn't want to you wash it because that'd remove the glaze and expose something he'd rather you not see.



None of the above is necessarily a slam at the painter, waiting a few weeks for the paint to harden (before final buffing it) could make perfect sense and I've had that come up with good painters. Though with most b/c repaints I'd expect things to be fine right out of the spraybooth :think: :nixweiss



!!!DON'T DO THE DISTILLED WATER/MF WIPE-OFF!!!



Either wash it properly with a high-lubricity shampoo or leave it alone; marring the still-soft paint is, IMO about the worst thing you could do. If you wash it, expect to see some flaws that the glaze is currently concealing (just reapply some glaze). *I* would leave it alone unless it gets a bird bomb/etc. on it. Not marring the paint would be my #1/only priority. Dust and (almost all forms of) dirt won't hurt anything. I've left repainted cars outside (unwashed) for weeks at a time with no problems.
 
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