Frustrated

C

cmk-2

New member
Okay someone help me. I've been a car guy most of my life and One of my cars (1978 Trans Am) needed to have a fender repainted and knowing the T/A might get some paint overspray I used BlackFire as I have for the past 2 years. My idea was to protect the rest of the car as best as I could from the paint shop. I used B/F detailing clay and got the surface smooth then came in with B/F wet diamond with Polycharger paint protection waited 24 hours and applied another coat. Then after waiting another 24 hours applied B/F Midnight sun wax waited another 24 hours and applied a last coat. The T/A went into the shop and 4 days later I picked up my car. The paint shop (used many times) did cover the car but paint overspay did get on the car in places. I gave it a good hand wash but still had to go back to the clay bar and start all over again. So my question is, if the paint was protected why didn't the overspay come off with the hand washing? What is the sealant and wax protecting the paint from? Don't get me wrong I'm NOT bashing Black Fire I like the product line. I also don't think another brand would had done any better. But I have to say I was very disapointed.
 
One guess would be the paint shop prepped the entire car before painting? Maybe a wash with dishwashing detergent or an IPA wipedown or something.
 
Was the paint redone SS or base clear? A wipe down is possible but i doubt they would do the whole vehicle. Unless you drive onto the plastic and "bubble" the vehicle tightly overspray can get under. The booth fans pull the paint around and under while clearing the air. Clear coat and enamel stays wet while in the air. They contain solvents (reducers) that eat right through normal sealants and waxes.

I have seen very few people who "bag" a vehicle the way I speak of. The extra wide painters plastic is expensive.(less expensive than
the labor to remove overspray) To me it is the only way to do it. I always keep a roll in stock.

Plastic the whole vehicle to the repair and paper off at the repair. To me it just makes sense.

Hope this helps, solvents in automotive paint will eat through any conventional sealer or wax.
 
Thanks it is a B/C paint. well I do feel better now. I know they tried to keep the overspay off (they know me well!). Any thing is poss but I really don't believe they washed the complete car down just to do 1 fender. Nice to know I wasted days of labor and the Black Fire product prepping my paint just so the solvents could eat through it. My 40,000 mile '87 Iroc-z will be going in the shop as the original GM B/C has started to peel on the hood any ideas on how to protect the rest of the car's paint on the overspay issue? Thanks for any help,
Robin Bailer Destin,Fl
 
When I had my hood painted the shop washed down my car twice, once when I brought it in and the other when they finished. I don't know what products they use but whatever it was stripped all the wax off my car.

In the end I don't think it matters. It's going to happen regardless unless they pull the panel which is what I'll ask shops to do from now on
 
cmk-2 said:
Thanks it is a B/C paint. well I do feel better now. I know they tried to keep the overspay off (they know me well!). Any thing is poss but I really don't believe they washed the complete car down just to do 1 fender. Nice to know I wasted days of labor and the Black Fire product prepping my paint just so the solvents could eat through it. My 40,000 mile '87 Iroc-z will be going in the shop as the original GM B/C has started to peel on the hood any ideas on how to protect the rest of the car's paint on the overspay issue? Thanks for any help,
Robin Bailer Destin,Fl
Click to expand...

Robin, John is SPOT ON. The solvents in the paint (which are strong enough to keep the paint wet) are going to make short work of any wax or sealant coating on the paint, pretty much regardless of what it is. I have seen waxes and sealants help with some water borne paints.

Your best bet is going to be to mask and tape off as much of the car as possible. If your body shop won't do it then see if they would let you do it yourself. To do it correctly takes time, but its worth the time invested IMO.

And WELCOME to AF! :welcome:
 
Sorry that happened ! But for future reference never wax your vehicle and then bring it in for paint work. The silicones in wax( or any other detailing productsb with silicones) can reek havoc with fresh paint!
 
I deal with overspray from hack bodymen where I work everyday (I say that publically because its the truth). Overspray is going to stick to the paint and its not going to care what you've put on it to protect it. Unless its masked off properly, its getting sprayed and its going to stick. A sealant is not going to do one single thing to stop it. I don't mean to come off as a nay sayer, just speaking from years of experience.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
 
Sorry for you! As a former PPG RRe-finish I can tell you that over-spray can fly & penetrate into any crack.. Next time ask the body shop if you can do the masking off yourself. Ther's special masking paper not "newspaper", liquid masking that can be sprayed with a gun, chemical resistant foam strips for any door,hood,trunk jams that over-spray can get into & special tape not your home stuff. Cars are washed down to remove waxes that are good for us but terrible for when youre painting..It's like sitting beside a person with a cold, what he has, well you will catch. Do not remove the part to be painted because it could end up like a bad sun-tan where you forgot to take off the towel off your leg, many times the shop will have to blend the paint into the next body part beside it for a so call even match. After many years of mixing paints let me tell you it's not that easy.. Same galon of paint can give you several shades of the same color, psi on sprayer,reduction,humidity,temp's & even the distance of the spray gun to the car. If paint & it's reducers were not that strong grasping on to things.. well your paint would just peel off with your detailing procedures.
 
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