flex w/ ccs pads = no good?

M

m4gician

New member
Now from what I've read (here), is there a problem using for example 6.5inch ccs pads with my newly ordered flex?
 
ive heard they work fine, but not the best. I've heard that they sometimes jump or skip. Some guys from another forum like the concave style pads. I havent used my flex yet, but I'll probably stick with the ccs pads I've got.
 
LOL i laugh at this.



They work fine. The issue is how the flex operates. It functions in such a way that it highlights any bad habits you have. If you are prone to tilting or edging your pads it will make a fool of you. The flex reinforces good habits IE flat pads at all times. 2 handed grip, solid pressure.



~Aaron
 
Grouse said:
LOL i laugh at this.



They work fine. The issue is how the flex operates. It functions in such a way that it highlights any bad habits you have. If you are prone to tilting or edging your pads it will make a fool of you. The flex reinforces good habits IE flat pads at all times. 2 handed grip, solid pressure.



~Aaron
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So the flex's behaviour is different with CCS pads? How badly does it highlight/improve your habits? Can you give an example of "making a fool"?
 
ccs pads are meant to be used flat. due to the operation of the flex, if they are not flat it will scoot across the paint. because the flex has an orbit also it will seem like it hops. this goes to show you that you have less than stellar machine handling skills. If you can master the flex with ccs pads you will find it much easier to learn a rotary. If you use a rotary( and don't have good posture) you will find your skills and efficiency will vastly improve.
 
I think this is where the CMA ccs pads would have an advantage because the blue foam absorbs off axis movements allowing the pad to remain flat.
 
another way to look at that is, your requiring the pads to make up for (for the lack of a more appropriate word, and not to incite a riot) sloppy buffing techniques.
 
One thing I recently learned is the advice that (you don't need to exert any pressure on the rotary) is flawed. I don't mean you have to press down like a PC, but you do need to keep enough pressure on it to keep the pad in full contact. As long as you keep the pad moving, keep the rpm's below 1500, and stay off trim, you won't screw up.
 
The CCS pads work fine for me via rotary but they were bogging down the UDM pretty bad. Usually, the UDM will continue to rotate even when you push down on it pretty hard, but even under light to moderate pressure, I wasn't getting any rotation with the CCS pads. Not sure if that would affect the Flex though, I understand it has faster rotation and a more powerful motor.



I agree that keeping the pads flat pretty much eliminates buffer hop with the rotary. Seems to me it would help with the Flex as well.
 
Scottwax said:
The CCS pads work fine for me via rotary but they were bogging down the UDM pretty bad. Usually, the UDM will continue to rotate even when you push down on it pretty hard, but even under light to moderate pressure, I wasn't getting any rotation with the CCS pads. Not sure if that would affect the Flex though, I understand it has faster rotation and a more powerful motor.



I agree that keeping the pads flat pretty much eliminates buffer hop with the rotary. Seems to me it would help with the Flex as well.
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Agreed,i had a few problems at first getting used to the flex but as long as you keep the pads as flat as you can you wont have any problems.
 
Alright, fine, I'll give the CCS pads another chance as I have a Lexus ES330 coming up. Maybe my hopping was caused by improper technique, but have quite a few more hours on the Flex now. Although I ordered some more Erasure pads today from Excel.
 
wannafbody said:
I think this is where the CMA ccs pads would have an advantage because the blue foam absorbs off axis movements allowing the pad to remain flat.
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Oh come on...that blue foam is all marketing hyperbole.
 
I got the some orange 6.5inch CCS pads with my Flex, do you think 6.5inch is too large a pad to do paint correction with some SIP?
 
dsms said:
I got the some orange 6.5inch CCS pads with my Flex, do you think 6.5inch is too large a pad to do paint correction with some SIP?
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No, 6.5" is fine.



I just went out and did a fender on my eclipse with the flex, a blue 6.5" CCS pad and PO85RD, it worked great!!! Took out the marring and looked awesome!!! I would have loved to do that whole car, but I have to much stuff going on today.
 
let me go ahead and thank all of you for your comments here - you all have saved me what i am sure would have been a sh(**y day of detailing. That pad hop skip and jumpin with my dewalt rotary always pissed me off. Now I understand why. It was actually me that was the idoit. Not the machine.



Iv got my flex just chillin. Cannot wait til the wetaher lets up here in the bay area to start shinin up paint.
 
dsms said:
I got the some orange 6.5inch CCS pads with my Flex, do you think 6.5inch is too large a pad to do paint correction with some SIP?
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It all depends on the hardness of the clear...but you should be able to do quite a bit of correction with the Flex, an orange pad and some SIP.
 
Where in the world have you been - fdizzle? And that Dewalt probably had a lot of help, not you but product, pad, surface, speed etc - all the wonderful variables that make rotary buffing more of a challange.
 
fdizzle said:
Iv got my flex just chillin. Cannot wait til the wetaher lets up here in the bay area to start shinin up paint.
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Me neither! Lots of rain in the forecast. I'd be waiting anyway though as I haven't received my Flex yet (ordered Christmas Eve).
 
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