FLEX 3401 VRG vs Rotary- pro Detailers plz chime in...

M

mystickid

New member
Guys,



I have a brand ne metabo Rotary which I only used once for my first ever polish session on my own car. I found it to be very well built but needs diligent handling. I almost burned one of the edges on my fender and now I'm leaning heavyily towards the FLEX 3401 VRG. I only detail my own car and my faily's or occasionally a friends.



I'm wondering...

How much correction ability does the FLEX 3401 VRG have in comparison to a rotary?



Can the FLEX 3401 completely restore heavy marring on say 10 yr old cars? I don't mean to say super deep scracthes (fingernail deep)... but you know like medium to heavy marring. Compound needed type scratches?



Can a rotary do the same?



What is the time saved when using a rotary vs the flex 3401? I know there isn't a set qutanity but on the avg? Would the rotary save like 10 min overall for example...



Obviously
 
mystickid said:
Guys,



I have a brand ne metabo Rotary which I only used once for my first ever polish session on my own car. I found it to be very well built but needs diligent handling. I almost burned one of the edges on my fender and now I'm leaning heavyily towards the FLEX 3401 VRG. I only detail my own car and my faily's or occasionally a friends...
Click to expand...



I'm not a pro but I'll chime in anyhow as I have both a Metabo and a Flex 3401, among other polishers.



I'm wondering...

How much correction ability does the FLEX 3401 VRG have in comparison to a rotary?
Click to expand...



Similar for most practical purposes. It's not like I've ever thought..."gee, the Flex can't take out that scratch so I'll *have* to get out my Metabo."



Can the FLEX 3401 completely restore heavy marring on say 10 yr old cars? I don't mean to say super deep scracthes (fingernail deep)... but you know like medium to heavy marring. Compound needed type scratches?
Click to expand...



Absolutely. I've compared the Flex with my Metabo and Makita rotaries on my (never-ending) M3 project. The Flex compared very well and the rotaries only win when used with rocks-in-a-bottle type compounds. Note that unless you have a specific reason, you shouldn't be using those types of compounds anyhow. M105 via Flex can do anything that's safe to do. Period.



I've done some *very* impressive correction via Flex. I'm pretty much of the opinion that if the Flex won't handle something then a) I should rethink correcting it 100% and b) wetsanding is probably in order.



The Flex can take paint off all the way to bare metal, just not as fast as a rotary.



Can a rotary do the same?
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Sure, and then some. But as you've found out, it can also bite you. The fact that you've burned an edge makes me wonder if the rotary is right for you (please don't take that the wrong way). Burning paint the first time you use a rotary is kinda scary IMO.

What is the time saved when using a rotary vs the flex 3401? I know there isn't a set qutanity but on the avg? Would the rotary save like 10 min overall for example...
Click to expand...



I can never answer Qs like that :nixweiss Unless I need to use a hideously chunky compound I doubt I'll ever use my rotaries again. Any time savings over the Flex would be offset by the need to do more diligent taping, cleanup (sling, etc.), and more intensive follow-up (holograms, etc.), not to mention the need to be more careful.



Note that some people simply prefer their rotaries...maybe you will too. Some people prefer to finish out via rotary...maybe you will too. But I prefer my Flex over my rotaries and I don't think you'd be nearly as likely to have an "oops!" with the Flex.
 
Hey thanks for answering all my questions Accumulator... I love these forums!



yep, I'll get a flex.



Thanx a milllion.
 
mystickid said:
..yep, I'll get a flex.
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I bet you've read about the problems some people have had with their Flexes. No such trouble here with mine, but here are a few tips:



Take off the backing plate and lube the felt ring that's behind it with some oil. Make sure the plate is on nice and tight too (well, don't overdo it).



Don't apply a *LOT* of pressure when the pads are at an angle lest you force the backingplate to bend and rub against the housing. A bit isn't bad but just take it a little easy.



Now and then, take the plate off and see if it's rubbing on the housing. Good time to wipe and relube the felt ring while you're at it. While the plate is off, inspect the teeth of the ring gear (you'll see what I mean when it's apart) and if there's any weird wear that's an "uh-oh" that oughta get checked out by the guys at Powerhouse (who supposedly offer super customer service).



But again, mine has been used kinda hard with zero issues at all.



Oh, and the metal housing can get *HOT*. Just a little warning in case you want to take off the plastic handle so you can get into some tight spots ;)



I bet you'll really like the Flex.
 
Superdutytd said:
What kind of oil should you lube it with?
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Apparently, most anything will work OK. I'm using some old Snake Oil brand firearms lube (no longer use such stuff on the guns), which is a bit thinner than, say...3-in-one. When I'm out of that I won't be too choosy about what I use.



Don't *soak* the felt ring, just give it enough that if/when the backingplate rubs against it it'll have something other than a dry felt ring to contact. You sure don't want so much oil that it'll end up getting on the vehicle you're polishing, but that shouldn't be a problem unless you get really carried away.
 
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