FK1 1000P Vs. Winter: Results

SuperBee364

New member
Last October I put three coats of Finish Kare 1 1000P High Temp Synthetic Paste Wax on my Charger. I managed to keep my hands off of the LSP for the entire winter. I can't remember the last time a car I owned went that long without either an LSP refresher, or change out. But I just had to know exactly how good 1000P really is.



Two weeks ago, I started the long process of changing over from 1000P to Vintage. I'm going one panel at a time. Along the way, I'm experimenting with polishes, pads, glazes, etc.



So today (which is a gorgeous spring day) I pull the car out into the driveway and do a touchless wash with the PW, foam cannon, CRSpotless and leaf blower. Half of my car has been converted to Vintage, the other half still has last October's 1000P.



I just did a very intense inspection of the paint in full sunlight. Now keep in mind that through the entire winter, my car went through the local touchless automatic on average of once per week. I also did around 10 ONR washes. The panels that still have 1000P on them still look flawless. They look *and* feel the same as they did after I applied the 1000P back in October. There are *zero* surface contaminants; no film, no dust, no tar, no hard water spots, nada. The paint is completely flawless and still very slick. This car was my DD through winter and all of it's road salt, snow, sand, all the typical winter yuck.



I've kept from saying this up til now, but after seeing these results, it's official: FK1 1000P is the very best LSP I have ever used. It excels in every category that matters to me: Looks, environmental protection, durability and ease of cleaning. The only complaint I have (it's very minor, and it applies to every sealant I've ever used) is that it's difficult to use a leaf blower to dry it. No big deal since I now have a CRSpotless, and any left over water isn't going to spot anyway, but I thought I'd mention it. I still can't believe that it lasted six months through a nasty winter and all those car washes.



I'm almost tempted to leave a few panels untouched just to see exactly how long the 1000P would last, but there's just too many products to test. :)



Last year, I used 1000P as my go-to sealant and the Collinites as my go-to waxes on customer cars. This year, every car is going to get at least one application of 1000P. The Collinites are going to stay in the fridge.
 
I have known this for a long time :thx but most people don't want to hear it on Autopia. :nervous2::nervous2::sosad:sosad:sosad



I love #1000!!! :spot:spot:spot
 
SuperBee364- Glad (but not really surprised) to hear the FK1000P worked out so well for you.



And I'm glad you didn't mar things up with those ONR washes.



Interesting about the leaf blower, it seems to blow water off my FK1000Ped wheels just fine, but that's not the same as regular panels either...



How you gonna reconcile that with your current foray into glazes/pure polishes? And what about your Vintage...do you really find the FK1000P just as pleasing looks-wise?
 
Just bought a tin of this a while ago. Still haven't got to use it but with the amount they give you and your findings on its durability, ill probobly be able to pass this tin down to my grandchildren.



What a great price for a whole lot of product
 
Bence said:
I don't know what you're talking about...















:D



Oh, you *know* this is *all your fault*, Bence! ;) I should buy a case of 1000P and send it to you. I wouldn't have ever tried it if it hadn't been for that thread you did a couple years back.



tdekany said:
I have known this for a long time :thx but most people don't want to hear it on Autopia. :nervous2::nervous2::sosad:sosad:sosad



I love #1000!!! :spot:spot:spot



Good to hear! :D



Accumulator said:
SuperBee364- Glad (but not really surprised) to hear the FK1000P worked out so well for you.



And I'm glad you didn't mar things up with those ONR washes.



Interesting about the leaf blower, it seems to blow water off my FK1000Ped wheels just fine, but that's not the same as regular panels either...



How you gonna reconcile that with your current foray into glazes/pure polishes? And what about your Vintage...do you really find the FK1000P just as pleasing looks-wise?



I was very concerned about the ONR washes I did during the winter. I did end up with a little marring in a few places, but nothing that 85RD didn't clean right up.



For some reason, sealants seem to cause the water to split up into many small water droplets that then resist being blown off the paint. Carnauba LSPs cause the water to just get the heck out of Dodge when hit with the blower. Especially the high carnauba content LSP's. ;)



During the summer, the 'bee will continue to be a product test bed for all the glazes, waxes, and sealants I have yet to try, but this fall, the 1000P will definitely be the winter LSP. Vintage is still gonna be my primary summer LSP.



As for looks, yeah, 1000P does still look like a sealant, but it comes as close to looking like a carnauba as any sealant I've seen. As Bence pointed out, as it ages, it develops less of a hard candy shell appearance and starts looking more like a carnauba. Great stuff. It's definitely a different look than say #7 topped with Vintage.... not worse, just different.



Dsoto87 said:
Just bought a tin of this a while ago. Still haven't got to use it but with the amount they give you and your findings on its durability, ill probobly be able to pass this tin down to my grandchildren.



What a great price for a whole lot of product



Yeah, FK1 has definitely hit the price/performance sweet spot. As time and money allow, I'm planning on trying out as many FK1 products as I can. I would guess that I've done around a total of 50 applications of 1000P out of my one tin, and I still have about 1/4 of it left.
 
Thanks for the report, Supe. 1000P has been in my personal top three since I bought mine back in July. I've also been using it on wheels pretty much exclusively over the past few months. I did a C5 Vette a few weeks ago, and when I dropped it off, the first thing he said was, "What did you use on the wheels and tires?" The answer: Z16 on the tires and 1000P on the wheels. He was blown away.



Now, I'm going to play devil's advocate here. Do you think the ONR washes contributed to the beading you're still getting? Ten ONR washes would put down a nice layer of polymers (So they say)....Could that help out? You know I'm not questioning you...just perhaps the methods. ;)



Either way, I'm very impressed. Thanks again, Supe. :xyxthumbs
 
SuperBee364 said:
FK1 1000P is the very best LSP I have ever used.





Whoa! Now that's a powerful statement, SuperBee :eek: I'm always reluctant to make such declarations as I know I'll stumble upon other greatness in the future ;)



How do you find it in terms of static attraction? That's my only genuine complaint about the Collinite #885. Apart from that, and hologramming, it's one of the best products I've used over the course of a winter.



Thanks for sharing. I know there's a lot of positive energy around this product.
 
EisenHulk said:
Now, I'm going to play devil's advocate here. Do you think the ONR washes contributed to the beading you're still getting? Ten ONR washes would put down a nice layer of polymers (So they say). ;)



I've often wondered about this too. How can we judge beading (perceived protection) of the LSP when the many of the washes end up leaving some sort of "protection" themselves. It's a very difficult call.
 
SuperBee364 said:
For some reason, sealants seem to cause the water to split up into many small water droplets that then resist being blown off the paint.





I just purchased one of these electric blowers (WEB160) for $30. I'm seeing a similar issue when used on my cars. I can't really tell what's happening, but I'm getting this odd droplet streaking that's quite noticeable when the car dries. It's as if the blower is causing me more work :sign



Am I blowing junk out from behind lenses, cracks and crevices and onto the cleaned body?? I'm a bit disappointed with the result.
 
Guys, I think that you're right to a certain point that a protection-enhanced wash/cleaner can skew the results of the overall product performance. But, we have to know how substantial these specific actives are, how does a touchless wash influence the ONR polymers on top of the 1000P, etc.



Besides, Opitmum polymers don't bead nearly as tightly as 1000P. Slightly irregular beading *may* indicate the ONR protection, while a more regular beading structure can be the 1000P itself.



I feel that a durability-of-ONR-protection-alone test is coming along somewhere...
 
If you look at the FK1 website there is one charecterist I don't like. That is depth. They rate it a 4 ... Now looks is all I care about because I wax so often. I want the deepest, westest shine I can get.
 
EisenHulk said:
Thanks for the report, Supe. 1000P has been in my personal top three since I bought mine back in July. I've also been using it on wheels pretty much exclusively over the past few months. I did a C5 Vette a few weeks ago, and when I dropped it off, the first thing he said was, "What did you use on the wheels and tires?" The answer: Z16 on the tires and 1000P on the wheels. He was blown away.



Now, I'm going to play devil's advocate here. Do you think the ONR washes contributed to the beading you're still getting? Ten ONR washes would put down a nice layer of polymers (So they say)....Could that help out? You know I'm not questioning you...just perhaps the methods. ;)



Either way, I'm very impressed. Thanks again, Supe. :xyxthumbs



Actually, that's a really good point, Casey. If I had done an ONR wash on it recently, I'd say that could definitely be the case. But being as how it hasn't had an ONR wash since around mid January, I highly doubt that any polymers left behind (especially at a ratio of one ounce to two gallons of water) could still be hanging around. It's seen a lot of touch free automatics and, more recently, a bunch more of my home touchless washes since it's last ONR bath. There's also a big difference in how paint that has no LSP on it feels after an ONR wash vs. how it feels after an ONR wash if it *has* LSP on it.



Also, the remaining 1000P put up a real fight with the IPA wipedown. You could *feel* where it was, and where it was coming off during the wipe. It took a total of three IPA wipedowns to remove all traces of the 1000p.







tom p. said:
Whoa! Now that's a powerful statement, SuperBee :eek: I'm always reluctant to make such declarations as I know I'll stumble upon other greatness in the future ;)



How do you find it in terms of static attraction? That's my only genuine complaint about the Collinite #885. Apart from that, and hologramming, it's one of the best products I've used over the course of a winter.



Thanks for sharing. I know there's a lot of positive energy around this product.



Yeah, I've stopped short of saying it in the past, but I'm now convinced. Hopefully, I'll stumble on another LSP as impressive sometime down the road. But for now, 1000P is King in my book. Vintage just got demoted to Court Jester.



A quick QD with 425 after wiping off the 1000p residue, and I've yet to see any static problems.



tom p. said:
I just purchased one of these electric blowers (WEB160) for $30. I'm seeing a similar issue when used on my cars. I can't really tell what's happening, but I'm getting this odd droplet streaking that's quite noticeable when the car dries. It's as if the blower is causing me more work :sign



Am I blowing junk out from behind lenses, cracks and crevices and onto the cleaned body??
I'm a bit disappointed with the result.



Leaf blowers definitely work best when you have a carnauba LSP on your car. I blow out the side view mirrors and the gas door first, then blow dry from top to bottom. If the car is wearing a sealant, it takes about as long as drying with a drying towel. If it's wearing a nuba, it only takes a couple minutes.
 
SuperBee364 said:
Two weeks ago, I started the long process of changing over from 1000P to Vintage. I'm going one panel at a time. Along the way, I'm experimenting with polishes, pads, glazes, etc.

Not to change the topic or anything, but why is it such a long process of change?



Also, if anyone is interested in sending me a free sample of 1000P, I would love to add it to my long lasting sealant test. Please PM me. Right now it consists of Klasse SG, Z2pro and Duragloss #105.
 
It took me a little bit to get it to play well with my style. I have gone the method of wash, clay , wash , FK 215 AIO , 1000P . It is fantastic stuff . Been using it for quite a while . Awesome stuff !



See Bence , I'm glad you learned something from this thread...lol.
 
SuperBee364 said:
But for now, 1000P is King in my book. Vintage just got demoted to Court Jester.





I luv it
biggrimjackbox.gif






SuperBee364 said:
Leaf blowers definitely work best when you have a carnauba LSP on your car. I blow out the side view mirrors and the gas door first, then blow dry from top to bottom. If the car is wearing a sealant, it takes about as long as drying with a drying towel. If it's wearing a nuba, it only takes a couple minutes.



Yeah, that's exactly what I'm seeing - - I don't think it's really offering any tangible time savings...and I don't do carnauba any longer.



Here's the real (OCD) reason I purchased the blower: I get a ton of water sitting in the Honda mirrors and it only comes out when you drive it...of course it then leaves drip marks all over the side of the car :aww:





I just had a FEDX alert: my tin of FK 1000P touched down about an hour ago :thx
 
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