First Time Using BlackFire Polish & BFWD

C

compulady

New member
I detailed my car for the first time today. I had a couple of MF towels from Pep Boys. One said it was for drying, the other for buffing. What is the difference between these towels? (The car looks great although I didn't have time for the SG -- next week)



I want to purchase some additional towels. Many are happy with the towels from Neatitems but they do not distinguish whether they are for glass, buffing, drying.



Properautocare has a package on sale of the Magic towel and Viper towels. The packages say one is for drying, etc.



Are the towels really different? Are the Neatitems towels good enough or should I purchase the package from Properautocare (they are on sale)?



Thanks once again.
 
from CMA...so i dont know about the rest from there...im sure they are good....the neatitems are fantastic..IMO.....alot of people here use the plusher MF's for wet work and the thinner ones"suede" for drying...but in all honesty i think that whatever you use them for its up to you...whichever ones you want to make the dryer or appying towel is up to you.....i never bought any MF's that said what to do with it on the label myself...so maybe some others here can clue you in on that one.....alot of people like the Viper for windows(applying stuff) an use a flanel towel...or another MF to dry it.....also...i usually try to be consistent with the towels and what i use them for....so i keep hem seperated...in little plastic bags....so....the yellow viper always gets used with whatever window cleaner you use....another always goes with paint work....etc.....man i made that answer long and drawn out....sorryy!!!:rolleyes:
 
I believe the towels you have are NicSand towels, and if they are like the ones I have seen, the quality is horrible. These towels lint constantly and are quite rough on the finish compared to even the $12 for 8 towels i got from Costco.



I wouldn't recommend using these on paint....
 
I have MF towels from neatitems, Turtle Wax and the Miracle towels from Classic. I can't tell much difference. Never had one lint yet. They don't even seem to loose any fiber in the dryer. Try a few out. Even the worst will perform better than cotton terry rags guaranteed.
 
I would not use NicSand towels on paint either. They are scratch and swirl city. Use them for dirty jobs like cleaning the wheels or other things.



I would stick with Miracle/Magic towels or neatitems towels for the paint.
 
Quite a few people have mentioned the TW microfiber towels, saying they are quite plush for the $3 price. I haven't seen these towels in my trips around the city to look at car part/detail shops. Are they only available on the East Coast?
 
Although there are a lot of different MF towels out there, I can only speak for the Miracle Towels (now called Magic Towels) and the Viking towels I purchased from CMA back in April of this year.



The plushest towels (ie: the Miracle/Magic Towel) are used primarily for paint. Either buffing, drying, QD'ing, etc. When i dry my car with them (and they are too wet to absorb much water) I wring them out as best I can and use the damp towel inside around the dash, and such.



The towels that are less plush are the Viper Detailing cloths. I use these for grungy areas like door sills, inside the hood & trunk and so on. I also use them for drying in these areas. They also are good for polishing and wax removal.



Lastly, there is the Viper Glass Cleaning cloth which is different from the others. This cloth is built different in that the fibers are split on the end instead of looped. Thi slets it leave behind a very tiny bead of moisture that evaporates quickly (versus a large one). The trick to using this cloth is that you should handle it like a chamois. Wet it and then wring it as dry as you can get it.



The color does not necessarily mean what they are used for. My Miracle/Magic towels happen to be light blue. My Detailing cloths are green and the glass cloth yellow. Griot's has a different color scheme on their series of towels. I can't answer to the linting problems that others have encountered as I have not purchased any towels since April.



I would not worry much on this point, though, as most reputable dealers like CMA, Griot's, YoSteve, TACSCAR are going to back their products so you most likely would be able to return them if you had problems with linting,etc.



Typically, you get what you pay for, so beware of bargain basement prices whithout checking into it thoroughly.
 
Weather outside finally warmed up....so I was able to try the new BFWD Shine Kit I purchased from PAC a couple of months ago. Detailed two of my vehicles over the weekend. One's a '98 Black Nissan King Cab, the other is a '07 Copper Red MX-5 Mazda.

The truck took more work than the Mazda due to age & size. Both were washed, clayed, rewashed, polished, & BFWD. I tackled the truck first and learned two things very quickly.....Use small amounts & let both (polish/BFWD) completely dry to a haze before wiping off.

I started by doing sections at a time & didn't let the polish fully dry. It just smeared. Plus a little go's a long way. I applied to much at first, then discovered it was a bear to remove. I cut back on the amount, did the complete vehicle, then let it fully dry and it was a breeze to remove. Final shine was great. I'm hoping for longer term protection, because I'm just to old to do this every 3-5 weeks as I've done for many years.

As my wife keeps telling me, just follow direction!!!

Once I determined the proper application procedure for both I was sold on the products......Thanks, PAC & TID members.
 
Good to here it worked for you. When I first used the polish I used it too heavy as well. :banghead:

Next weekend throw a second application of BFWD on there. :drool5: I've got three coats on my car. :out:




:White Horse:
 
My understanding is that BFWD should be applied in one of two ways--either wipe on and buff off immediately or wipe on and then wait for it to dry completely and then buff off. I have only done the former and had no problem whatsoever with streaking. I imagine, though, that waiting for it to dry completely might provide more durable and long-lasting protection, though I'm not certain about that.

BFWD is my favorite synthetic sealant.
 
akimel said:
My understanding is that BFWD should be applied in one of two ways--either wipe on and buff off immediately or wipe on and then wait for it to dry completely and then buff off. I have only done the former and had no problem whatsoever with streaking. I imagine, though, that waiting for it to dry completely might provide more durable and long-lasting protection, though I'm not certain about that.

BFWD is my favorite synthetic sealant.
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You are absolutely correct. The BFWD can be applied in both ways that you mentioned. I usually apply it to the entire car and let it cure for about 45 minutes. Then I come back and buff off. It couldn't be easier. Just remember to apply thin.
 
Well I'm just an old dog that now believes that old dogs can learn new tricks with the help of great detailers that hang out at this forum & teach us their tricks. Keep the knowledge flowing so us old dogs can learn more.

Thanks To All !!!!!
 
Your welcome Dryon, glad you got to use your kit and learn a few things along the way. Don't forget that 2nd coat!
 
I'm glad it worked out. From the (tiny) pics it looks great. Please let us know if you we can help with anything and thanks for posting :D
 
th0001 said:
I'm glad it worked out. From the (tiny) pics it looks great. Please let us know if you we can help with anything and thanks for posting :D
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I did notice after I posted the pics they were tiny. I'm new to all this and don't know what I did wrong. Can anyone help tell me how to post pisc that are larger like some of the ones I see in other posts.
 
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