First time rotary polisher experience/
- Thread starter tguil
- Start date
stuart hicks
New member
If your car is in like new shape you really don't need a rotory.
The place you have to show the most caution with is painted plastic like mirrors and bumpers. These can burn much faster than painted metal. Next be carefull around the edges. Always start with a foam pad and work your speed up gradually. Don't let the machine sit on one place for more than a split second.
If you have oxidation, heavy scratches, marring, and acid rain you will have a big diference in results. If not your PC is fine and you won't notice much of a difference though.
My first time using a rotory was a big relief. I had been detailing for over a year before i finally got one. Finally i felt like a real pro. My first successfull acid rain job was done the day i got a rotory.
Pro P-11 then p-40 followed by miracle wax did the trick.
The place you have to show the most caution with is painted plastic like mirrors and bumpers. These can burn much faster than painted metal. Next be carefull around the edges. Always start with a foam pad and work your speed up gradually. Don't let the machine sit on one place for more than a split second.
If you have oxidation, heavy scratches, marring, and acid rain you will have a big diference in results. If not your PC is fine and you won't notice much of a difference though.
My first time using a rotory was a big relief. I had been detailing for over a year before i finally got one. Finally i felt like a real pro. My first successfull acid rain job was done the day i got a rotory.
Pro P-11 then p-40 followed by miracle wax did the trick.
Deanski
STUTTGART'S FINEST
I've been using the Makita 9227C for some time now (years) and love it! I tried others, but this one has the best balance in by book!
If you REALLY need one, I would take the time to tape your edges as paint is a bit thinner in those areas and once too long there or too fast or hard.... paint gone!
They are used primarily for paint defect removal: Swirls, orange peel, compounding after wetsanding, etc. Swirls can be removed very quickly as a rotary generates heat and can really work a polish into the finish. Speed is the key, too fast and kiss paint goodbye, too slow polishes start to bind up the pads.
If you do have defects as above and want them gone, this is one way to do it. But if it's your first time, please tape all edges. You can hit those later by hand or PC. Take your time, get to know the polisher! Sounds stupid, but balance and feel as you use it is very important! Find a good balance with it, try it sanding wood for a day, then change to a pad and try it on some metal to shine that up. This way you get more confident and find how it reacts with the surface. Keep the pad on a slight angle as well.
Now you have one, tested it, played with it and feel you're ready, then go ahead and polish away. Read polish mfg guide to find best speeds for type of polish. When in doubt, 1000rpm to 1500rpm is a fair speed.
Go to your home centers and pick each one up. If you can, ask if you can find an area to test one running as they do have a lot of torque and you need to feel it as it operates, start stops etc.
The Makita 9227C has a wrap around handle which gives me more control and balance. It can also go from 0-3000.
Here's a good price for one: Makita 9227C Rotary Polisher
Good luck.
Regards,
Deanski
If you REALLY need one, I would take the time to tape your edges as paint is a bit thinner in those areas and once too long there or too fast or hard.... paint gone!
They are used primarily for paint defect removal: Swirls, orange peel, compounding after wetsanding, etc. Swirls can be removed very quickly as a rotary generates heat and can really work a polish into the finish. Speed is the key, too fast and kiss paint goodbye, too slow polishes start to bind up the pads.
If you do have defects as above and want them gone, this is one way to do it. But if it's your first time, please tape all edges. You can hit those later by hand or PC. Take your time, get to know the polisher! Sounds stupid, but balance and feel as you use it is very important! Find a good balance with it, try it sanding wood for a day, then change to a pad and try it on some metal to shine that up. This way you get more confident and find how it reacts with the surface. Keep the pad on a slight angle as well.
Now you have one, tested it, played with it and feel you're ready, then go ahead and polish away. Read polish mfg guide to find best speeds for type of polish. When in doubt, 1000rpm to 1500rpm is a fair speed.
Go to your home centers and pick each one up. If you can, ask if you can find an area to test one running as they do have a lot of torque and you need to feel it as it operates, start stops etc.
The Makita 9227C has a wrap around handle which gives me more control and balance. It can also go from 0-3000.
Here's a good price for one: Makita 9227C Rotary Polisher
Good luck.
Regards,
Deanski
JimS
Adopt a shelter pet!
I'm new to detailing. I got a Makita 9227 a few months ago and have used it 3 or 4 times now and with success.
I've not had any problems at all but have been careful to keep it moving, run on low speed, use gentle pads and products, avoid edges and take my time.
Before I start using it I always stop and take a deep breath, proceed with care and be very methodical.
I'd recommend going to the junk yard and getting a fender or hood to practice on or maybe you or a friend have an old beater pick-up to use for practice.
I've not had any problems at all but have been careful to keep it moving, run on low speed, use gentle pads and products, avoid edges and take my time.
Before I start using it I always stop and take a deep breath, proceed with care and be very methodical.
I'd recommend going to the junk yard and getting a fender or hood to practice on or maybe you or a friend have an old beater pick-up to use for practice.
NattyBumppo
Strange name, ain't it?
Moving up to the rotary can be an enlightening experience. I'm a realtive newb to the rotary myself and like everyone says, the results vs. the PC D.A. can be dramatic.
As a rotary newb the only suggestions I feel qualified to make would be stay away from wool (I found out the hard way it is pretty unforgiving), get both the 7" backing plate and a 6" backing plate so you can use smaller 6" PC type pads if you want. The smaller PC pads are much easier to handle when first starting off...especially around trim and stuff. Also tape all trim and molding off. I keep my speeds around 1400 rpm.
I purchased the Porter Cable rotary from CMA and I like it very much. Of course never having used the Makita or DW I really don't have anything to compare it to.
Good luck.
Natty
As a rotary newb the only suggestions I feel qualified to make would be stay away from wool (I found out the hard way it is pretty unforgiving), get both the 7" backing plate and a 6" backing plate so you can use smaller 6" PC type pads if you want. The smaller PC pads are much easier to handle when first starting off...especially around trim and stuff. Also tape all trim and molding off. I keep my speeds around 1400 rpm.
I purchased the Porter Cable rotary from CMA and I like it very much. Of course never having used the Makita or DW I really don't have anything to compare it to.
Good luck.
Natty
imported_zenhog
New member
I made the decision to go to a rotary after watching an interview with the guy who started CMA. His point was that if you keep your speed down the tool is just as safe as an orbital.
I got my rotary on Friday from harbor freight, they have/had the makita 9227c on sale for $159. By Saturday morning I was looking over some polishing I had done and was amazed at the job this thing did. I've never seen my car without a single micro-scratch, swirl mark or spider web scratch.
I've also never seen my car without the windshield washer nozzles that are usually on top of the hood. LOL.. oh, just kidding. I haven't knocked off any trim or pieces that should stay on the car. yet.
What I have learned, however, in the few short hours that I have on the tool is this: do NOT use it if you have not dried it properly after washing the pad. At least with the foam pad I got from CMA - it's foam and looks like it's made of hundreds of little foam fingers. I washed and rinsed it, wrung it by hand, put it on the tool, ran it at full speed and saw a lot of water come out of it, and began to use it on the car. Well... I now have a garage interior that looks like it has white chicken pox. Thank God I masked everything with tape and/or plastic. I didn't know a tiny droplet could be thrown so far.
One other note that folks may want to know about the Makita 9227. The model 9227c has a wrap-around handle and the 9227cy has a traditional handle that stems out one side of the head, much like the PC. From what I can tell in the manual that came with the 9227c, you can buy the screw-in handle that turns it into a 9227cy. So all that angst over which one to get (I did a lot of reading of opinions on the two types) wasn't worth it, I can just order the side-handle if I want it.
I got my rotary on Friday from harbor freight, they have/had the makita 9227c on sale for $159. By Saturday morning I was looking over some polishing I had done and was amazed at the job this thing did. I've never seen my car without a single micro-scratch, swirl mark or spider web scratch.
I've also never seen my car without the windshield washer nozzles that are usually on top of the hood. LOL.. oh, just kidding. I haven't knocked off any trim or pieces that should stay on the car. yet.
What I have learned, however, in the few short hours that I have on the tool is this: do NOT use it if you have not dried it properly after washing the pad. At least with the foam pad I got from CMA - it's foam and looks like it's made of hundreds of little foam fingers. I washed and rinsed it, wrung it by hand, put it on the tool, ran it at full speed and saw a lot of water come out of it, and began to use it on the car. Well... I now have a garage interior that looks like it has white chicken pox. Thank God I masked everything with tape and/or plastic. I didn't know a tiny droplet could be thrown so far.
One other note that folks may want to know about the Makita 9227. The model 9227c has a wrap-around handle and the 9227cy has a traditional handle that stems out one side of the head, much like the PC. From what I can tell in the manual that came with the 9227c, you can buy the screw-in handle that turns it into a 9227cy. So all that angst over which one to get (I did a lot of reading of opinions on the two types) wasn't worth it, I can just order the side-handle if I want it.
I bought Harbor Freight's house brand rotary for $39.95. It came with a velcro backing plate. I went out and bought a 2 pack of 3M waffle foam polishing pads. Went to work on the black Prelude I just painted and was amazed. I'd been buffing by hand and with a Porter Cable orbital. I had no problems at all using 3M Perfect-It III rubbing compound and their machine swirl remover. My PC is now my second choice for buffing, etc. The Harbor Freight rotary works just great, although I suppose it may not have the life span of a $200 buffer, but no more than I'll use it, I'm very please with the feel and performance.
jimmybuffit
That'll buff right out!
I have two rotarys now. One is the FEIN (CoastalTool.com) and the other is the Chicago Electric from Harbor freight. (That I assume dlw was referring to)
The Fein cost $300 and is a wonderful, lighweight tool.
The CE cost $24.99 (sale!) and is perfectly adequate, particularly for the weekend enthusiast. Invest in a better backing plate and use good pads. It is a good tool.
On the other hand, trust me, the Fein is to die for! If you use a rotary for an hour a day, this is the Bomb! Weighs about the same as the PC.
Jim
The Fein cost $300 and is a wonderful, lighweight tool.
The CE cost $24.99 (sale!) and is perfectly adequate, particularly for the weekend enthusiast. Invest in a better backing plate and use good pads. It is a good tool.
On the other hand, trust me, the Fein is to die for! If you use a rotary for an hour a day, this is the Bomb! Weighs about the same as the PC.
Jim
Jim,
What backing plate did you get for the Chicago Electric and where did you get it? I got one also and wondered if I should get bigger pads to fit the plate they shipped, or where I could get a smaller plate so it would use my PC pads?
Thanks for your insight. I don't forsee using it alot so the Chicago Electric deal for $30.00 out the door seemed too good to pass up. I basically bought it after reading your initial review.
Thanks,
Sam
What backing plate did you get for the Chicago Electric and where did you get it? I got one also and wondered if I should get bigger pads to fit the plate they shipped, or where I could get a smaller plate so it would use my PC pads?
Thanks for your insight. I don't forsee using it alot so the Chicago Electric deal for $30.00 out the door seemed too good to pass up. I basically bought it after reading your initial review.
Thanks,
Sam