Finish Kare Decon system

9

9935annivgt

New member
I have a pretty good dose of rail dust on my 07 F 150 (white of course) that I have been putting off until it warms up has anyone used the Finish Kare Decon system? Does it damage trim or metal? How carefull must you be when using it? Any help would be very helpful. Still learning every day it seems like.
 
I've only used the first part of the FK system (pn 1119 maybe?). It works well but smells kinda bad.



I haven't used the FK's acidic step but it's supposedly more gentle than the AutoInt "B" that I have used.



Since I never had problems with the AutoInt stuff I sure wouldn't expect any problems from the FK version.
 
I have used it quite a few times over the years, and it works OK to great depending on the amount of stuff on the car. Make sure that you have a very cool place to work at, you need to let the products sit on the surface for dwell time.



I also wouldn't out rule just a good clay treatment after to finish cleaning up or a paint cleaner
 
I would like to find something that will remove the stuff in one step, not decon then clay, I am already polishing after to remove the swirls but I do not want to risk tearing up a pad or even worse picking up metal and polishing something else.
 
I've been dying to try Mark-V's Liquid Fallout Remover. It's a 1 part system.



Mark V Products ::: Speciality Cleaners ::: Liquid Fallout Remover 16oz





Liquid Fallout Remover.

Description and Uses:

For the convenience of those who want a ready-to-use product we have taken our Fallout Powder formula and transformed it into a liquid form. Seven ingredients (four acids and three surfactants) are blended together to give the customer a broad spectrum of cleaning ability.

Use Liquid Fallout Remover to remove industrial fallout, rail dust, heavy road film, bird and insect deposits and more from autos, trucks, boats and painted structures. Liquid Fallout Remover will strip away layers of baked on grime in minutes, leaving the surface properly prepared for polishing.

Advantages:

Removes all of the fallout, even the part embedded in the paint.



Mixes easily even in cold, hard water.



Used by BMW, NA., American Honda and Acura.



Rinses easily and completely.



Not necessary to wash vehicle with soap and water after use.



Broad spectrum cleaners clean more than just rail dust.



Special Tips and Precautions:

Fallout removal should be the first step in any complete detail, as it properly prepares the surface for polymer bonding.



Dwell time is critical. The larger the particle size of the rail dust, the longer Liquid Fallout Remover must remain on the painted surface. Usually 10-20 minutes.



Do not mix with other products.



Do not allow to dry. Water must be present for the product to work properly.
 
That sounds interesting, might have to get some of that





David Fermani said:
I've been dying to try Mark-V's Liquid Fallout Remover. It's a 1 part system.



Mark V Products ::: Speciality Cleaners ::: Liquid Fallout Remover 16oz





Liquid Fallout Remover.

Description and Uses:

For the convenience of those who want a ready-to-use product we have taken our Fallout Powder formula and transformed it into a liquid form. Seven ingredients (four acids and three surfactants) are blended together to give the customer a broad spectrum of cleaning ability.

Use Liquid Fallout Remover to remove industrial fallout, rail dust, heavy road film, bird and insect deposits and more from autos, trucks, boats and painted structures. Liquid Fallout Remover will strip away layers of baked on grime in minutes, leaving the surface properly prepared for polishing.

Advantages:

Removes all of the fallout, even the part embedded in the paint.



Mixes easily even in cold, hard water.



Used by BMW, NA., American Honda and Acura.



Rinses easily and completely.



Not necessary to wash vehicle with soap and water after use.



Broad spectrum cleaners clean more than just rail dust.



Special Tips and Precautions:

Fallout removal should be the first step in any complete detail, as it properly prepares the surface for polymer bonding.



Dwell time is critical. The larger the particle size of the rail dust, the longer Liquid Fallout Remover must remain on the painted surface. Usually 10-20 minutes.



Do not mix with other products.



Do not allow to dry. Water must be present for the product to work properly.
Click to expand...
 
That looks much better at 8.00 a bottle instead of 50.00, The big question is how well does it work? Maybe I will be the guinea pig.
 
9935annivgt said:
That looks much better at 8.00 a bottle instead of 50.00, The big question is how well does it work? Maybe I will be the guinea pig.
Click to expand...
...sounds like a plan. ;)
 
David Fermani- It sounds like that MK-V Fallout Remover needs a somewhat extended dwell time, huh? I alway left the FK/AI stuff on a good long time anyhow...



I'd still rewash with something after using that stuff.



9935annivgt said:
I would like to find something that will remove the stuff in one step, not decon then clay, I am already polishing after to remove the swirls but I do not want to risk tearing up a pad or even worse picking up metal and polishing something else.
Click to expand...



Sometimes the decon works fine without claying, sometimes the clay just helps things along, and sometimes you simply *need* both.



I dunno about the chances of a pad picking up a speck of metal. IMO the claying would make it less likely though.
 
Just curious as to if this system, or any of the other types of these systems, will be good at removing remnants of foam overspray? I have a client that does commercial roofing and spray foam (A+B components) and sometimes gets overspray of this polyurethane foam onto vehicles.



I'm curious as to if this type of system would work better at this than clay to remove the remnants after I get the bulk off w/ adhesive remover and plastic razor?
 
rasch_C said:
Just curious as to if this system, or any of the other types of these systems, will be good at removing remnants of foam overspray? ...

I'm curious as to if this type of system would work better at this than clay to remove the remnants after I get the bulk off w/ adhesive remover and plastic razor?
Click to expand...



I'd try the FK1119.
 
rasch_C said:
Just curious as to if this system, or any of the other types of these systems, will be good at removing remnants of foam overspray? I have a client that does commercial roofing and spray foam (A+B components) and sometimes gets overspray of this polyurethane foam onto vehicles.



I'm curious as to if this type of system would work better at this than clay to remove the remnants after I get the bulk off w/ adhesive remover and plastic razor?
Click to expand...



If the foam is cured I think you will find mechanical removal (claying/polishing) more effective than chemicals.
 
charger17 said:
If the foam is cured I think you will find mechanical removal (claying/polishing) more effective than chemicals.
Click to expand...



Yeah, I sure wouldn't expect the decon chemicals to just wash it off. But with any luck they would soften the foam and/or lessen the bond so it comes off easier.



While it might not be even remotely similar, this reminds me of how I had incredibly good results using a combo of FK1119 and clay on some highway lane paint that had been on the car in question for ages; the FK1119 softened it up just enough that the clay could get it off.
 
It would be a huge shame if they did. :-(

Nothing was easier to me than washing three times rather than claying a whole car and claying doesn`t get rid of all the contamination
 
Valu-Guard also makes a 3-step decon system. I`ve never used it,though, so cannot comment on its overall effectiveness or concerns for metal or plastic trim.
If Ron Ketcham (AKA "Grumpy") was still posting, he could tell us all about it, as I believed he worked for this car-care chemical manufacturer for a while.
 
I used it a few times but still have a lot of it sitting in my garage. I wonder what the shelf life of A and B is
 
Lonnie said:
Valu-Guard also makes a 3-step decon system. I`ve never used it,though, so cannot comment on its overall effectiveness or concerns for metal or plastic trim...
Click to expand...

Much more gentle than the FK stuff, but also much less likely to have an "oops!".

If Ron Ketcham (AKA "Grumpy") was still posting, he could tell us all about it, as I believed he worked for this car-care chemical manufacturer for a while.
Click to expand...
He might`ve been at FK even longer than he was at AI/VG. He sure was, uhm...negatively disposed...towards the FK Decon system, basically thought it was irreparable harm waiting to happen while thinking the ABC is truly All That.

Bill D said:
I wonder what the shelf life of A and B is..
Click to expand...

Mine`s older than yours and as best I can tell it`s still OK. I`d expect the "A" to have an infinite shelf life, but just dunno about the "B". Maybe you could dunk a piece of litmus paper in it and see if it`s still acidic, at least that might tell you something, but I`ll probably just assume mine is OK and use it next time something needs it.

jrock645 said:
Accumulator uses the valugard and speaks very highly of it.
Click to expand...

Yep, same as all those Major Automakers who`ve tested/approved it. But with all the newer Decontamination Products on the market these days, I suspect that most people will gravitate towards color-indicative, and perhaps more potent, offerings than "B".

And I was never impressed with "C"...just a ph-neutral, mediocre shampoo IMO.

Now that "A" OTOH, there`s a swell product IMO.
 
Accumulator said:
Much more gentle than the FK stuff, but also much less likely to have an "oops!".


He might`ve been at FK even longer than he was at AI/VG. He sure was, uhm...negatively disposed...towards the FK Decon system, basically thought it was irreparable harm waiting to happen while thinking the ABC is truly All That.
Click to expand...

FK`s acid step was scary strong but that high strength stuff saved two cars that I thought where beyond saving due to the number of rust blooms covering those two cars. I honesty don`t know if a milder product could have saved them.
 
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