Finally $*!?%# Up, Questions

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Dsoto87

New member
Well it finally happened, messed up some paint. I guess I should be happy it was my own.



Anyways, I was working on some scratches/chips on my passenger side door. They were filled with touchup already and I began wetsanding them. I was using nikken 2000 to level them out slightly. I was maybe 10-15 strokes in when I finally saw it, I went through the clear. No pictures since I don't even feel like looking at it right now and its getting dark.



Its less than the diameter of a quarter but little over in inch from top to bottom. Just wondering what my options are from here and how much it will cost. I didn't go through the color coat.



I'm so mad at myself. Didn't expect to go through the clear that quick either. Than again I don't know what the previous owner did to the car nor have I ever taken any readings.



I know what my next purchase will be..... An PTG.
 
Were you using a block? I'm not sure a PTG really would have saved you, you can never really be sure how much of the build is clear, unless you have one of those that can read both layers but they only work on non-ferrous and cost a jillion dollars.
 
I was using one of those megs backing pads.



I figure a PTG would have given me a better indication of just how thin it was. Or maybe my whole car is thin and than your right, it would have done me no good.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
Were you using a block? I'm not sure a PTG really would have saved you, you can never really be sure how much of the build is clear, unless you have one of those that can read both layers but they only work on non-ferrous and cost a jillion dollars.
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For the most part, that's true, but you can kinda cheat a bit...



Find a surface on the car that has the color coat on it, but not the clear. Take numerous readings in that area. Now go take a bunch of readings all over the cleared parts. Subtract the non-cleared readings from the cleared. Maybe not *totally* accurate, but close enough. I used a bunch of painted but not cleared areas from under the hood.
 
Didn't think about that superbee.



So what's the cheapest route I can go with this? Obviously I could get the door repainted, but is there a way to fix this since I didn't go to the primer nor is it very large.
 
Dsoto87 said:
Well it finally happened, messed up some paint. I guess I should be happy it was my own.
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Then you miss out on the excitement of explaining to the customer how you wrecked the paint, while trying to get it to an autopia acceptable standard. :drool:



Anyways, I was working on some scratches/chips on my passenger side door. They were filled with touchup already and I began wetsanding them.
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Why? Just use some rubbing compound, the touch up paint is softer than the clear coat, you will quickly level it.



Its less than the diameter of a quarter but little over in inch from top to bottom. Just wondering what my options are from here and how much it will cost. I didn't go through the color coat.
Meh, just re-clear it with some Dupli-color aerosol clearcoat.



I'm so mad at myself. Didn't expect to go through the clear that quick either.
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Does anyone? :rolleyes:



I know what my next purchase will be..... An PTG.
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How's about a nice wax with good filling properties? :ca
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If you want to respray the clear don't just try to spray the quarter sized area it won't blend. Never use Duplicolor clear, it is super soft and won't hold up to any chemicals, even a wax adhesive remover will melt it. Respray the whole panel, hopefully its small, with MaxSpray 2K clearcoat. It's a two part clear spray paint that is like what the body shops use. Then wetsand and polish, it will be like new.
 
Sounds good dan. There's a piece of trim in the middle of the panel. Could I spray up to there or should I spray the entire door.



Should I scuff up the existing clear? If so, with what grit?
 
wow good heads up



I bought some sandpaper because i was going to fix some scrachthes on my hood



i bought 1500 and 2000, good thing I only used the 2000 for about 2 seconds.



I'm gonna go buy some 2500 and 3000 today
 
Dsoto87 said:
Sounds good dan. There's a piece of trim in the middle of the panel. Could I spray up to there or should I spray the entire door.



Should I scuff up the existing clear? If so, with what grit?
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You could tape right where the trim starts so you won't have to paint the whole panel. You want to sand the part of the clear coat you are painting with about 1000 grit wet sand paper (Meguiars Unigrit is good). Make sure you don't go down to the basecoat, it just needs some texture so the new paint can stick. Before you sand use a silicone and grease remover and wipe the panel down. After you sand do the same thing then wipe down with alcohol and use a tack rag.



After the paint cures in 48 hours I would wet sand with 1500-2500 depending on how much orange peel you have, then follow up with 500 grit higher at a time up to 3000 then polish with powergloss, ip, 106ff or something similar. You can always start at 2500 and see how that is then go down to a courser grit if needed. If you mess up just resand and spray the clear again.
 
Thanks dan. I think I'm going to try this. Might as well spend 40 for two cans than 400 to get it resprayed.



If I mess up it will still end up at the spray booth either way.



Any tips on actually spraying it?
 
Dsoto87 said:
Thanks dan. I think I'm going to try this. Might as well spend 40 for two cans than 400 to get it resprayed.



If I mess up it will still end up at the spray booth either way.



Any tips on actually spraying it?
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For the first coat use a very light coat, wait ten minutes in between coats, the second coat use a little heavier application, then after that you can go fairly heavy as long as it doesn't run. I like to put maybe 6 layers of clear knowing that a lot of it will be knocked down so I can get zero orange peel. If your car already has orange peel on the rest of it you wouldn't want to do this because it won't match the rest of the car. Then wait 48 hours or more before sanding. Be very careful polishing because the paint is still somewhat soft and takes a while to reach full hardness. I would try to polish it only with a PC at first and wait a few weeks or as long as you can before going to a rotary if it's needed. If you sand up to 3000 grit though a rotary won't be necessary.



Also try to overlap the paint about 50% of the width of the spray. Hold the can about 10 inches away from the paint, it should say on the can exactly how far away to hold it. Make sure you mask the rest of the car against overspray and wear a respirator because 2 part clear is much worse on your lungs than a one part like the duplicolor clear. Once you activate the can to mix the 2 parts together the can will only last 24 hours.
 
dan46n2 said:
The one I used is part number 3680061, the high gloss glamour clear SprayMax 2K Urethane Aerosol Clear Coat



I'm not sure exactly what the difference is but on the Glamour High Gloss it says it has the highest weather resistance while the rapid cut in has high resistance.
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I sure wish I had known about this stuff when I repainted my wheel lip. If this stuff is a real two-part polyurethane you guys are going to want to use a respirator when spraying this.
 
I'm definitely going to go this route first before I plunk down the cash.



One question, why can't you "spot, spray" it? Will it come ou uneven looking?



Oh, and about how much does a quality respirator run? Thanks guys
 
Got More Wax said:
Sell it and buy a Ferrari!



Andy
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+1, and make sure use Zymol Vintage (with "free" lifetime refills) on it, so you won't be so tempted to machine polish it. :2thumbs:
 
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