Filling scrathces/scuffs

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spartacus_331

New member
Well....... I got hit AGAIN! I can't believe it! This time, I was parked on the curb at my gym.. rather than parked in between the white lines in the parking lot.



I thought this would be safer.. trying to avoid "door dings".



It appears that someone attempted to parallel park behind me and cut it too sharply...... brushed against the left rear corner of my bumper. Using SFX-1 SFX-2 and SFX-3 I managed to make it look pretty good... :buffing: .... but there are still some pretty nasty scratches that can be seen in the sunlight or from the right angle.........



Is there any product that can "fill in" scratches and then maybe re-seal with AIO and a couple coats of Carnuba? :nixweiss
 
If they won't come out you can try wetsanding, or use a heavy filler glaze. 3M Perfect IT Hand Glaze hides some MAJOR stuff for me.
 
I would not follow any glaze with AIO though as the cleaners in AIO would remove all of the filler oils. Following with a good carnauba (one without cleaners) would be best.
 
spartacus_33 said:
That is some good stuff........ although a little scary! :nervous2:
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It is a little scary at first, but just follow the directions and you will be OK. Also remember, just like polishing a car always start with the least aggressive product first. If you have any fear about 1500 grit sand paper then start out with 2000 grit. I recently repaired two large scratches in the metallic paint on my BMW (metallic is EXTREMALY hard to match) with great success.
 
bmwbear said:
It is a little scary at first, but just follow the directions and you will be OK. Also remember, just like polishing a car always start with the least aggressive product first. If you have any fear about 1500 grit sand paper then start out with 2000 grit. I recently repaired two large scratches in the metallic paint on my BMW (metallic is EXTREMALY hard to match) with great success.
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We're you worried about sanding through the clear coat? :eek:
 
You might want to pick up some Meguairs Unigrit Paper...I picked some up yesterday locally at a supply shop around here..I got the 3000 for now, if need be I will pick up other grits. I say 3000 is safe for starting out if you take precaution.
 
If you'd like something with good fillers, I have a bunch of 3M Fill 'n Glaze I'd be happy to swap or sell. It works pretty well if you're just trying to hide scratches instead of fully polish 'em out. And it works great on scratches on CDs! That's what I use it for most of the time. PM me if you're interested.
 
spartacus_33 said:
We're you worried about sanding through the clear coat? :eek:
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I was not really worried because I couldn't make the sratches any worse than they already where :dance So I just went for it, just go slow, take your time, and inspect your work after each pass with the sand paper. Also you can even start out with a finer grit, say 3000 grit. It will take a lot longer but it will keep you from getting into any trouble really quickly.
 
bmwbear said:
I was not really worried because I couldn't make the sratches any worse than they already where :dance So I just went for it, just go slow, take your time, and inspect your work after each pass with the sand paper. Also you can even start out with a finer grit, say 3000 grit. It will take a lot longer but it will keep you from getting into any trouble really quickly.
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Thanks guys..... the thought of sanding on my brand new 5 series BMW (BLACK) still scares me, :nervous2: but its sort of towards the bottom of the corner of the rear bumper...... so it's probably the BEST place to start this new obsession. :grinno:
 
Ditto on what Joshua said about Mequiar's Unigrit paper and sanding blocks. Mequiar's stuff seems to be a little better about having uniform grit than some of the other stuff on the market. BTW, if you use the sanding blocks, make sure to soak 'em first.
 
bmwbear said:
I was not really worried because I couldn't make the sratches any worse than they already where :dance So I just went for it, just go slow, take your time, and inspect your work after each pass with the sand paper. Also you can even start out with a finer grit, say 3000 grit. It will take a lot longer but it will keep you from getting into any trouble really quickly.
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that's pretty much what it took for me before I wet sanded the first time. worst case was a repaint, which I'd just do sooner than I thought if unsuccessful. I was still worried, though. but I had a really good experience and have ever since, and I also took some good advice and sourced megs unigrit 3k before I started. I think you'll know what I'm talking about when it hits you that you're taking sand paper to your car on purpose and that somehow you think it's a good idea.
 
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