FD RX7 gets De-Faded and De-Swirled by Tru Shine

[db2]

I have these small stains on my bumper and near the bottom of my trunk lid. They are black and some are this orangish color. I think they are tree pollen and exhaust residue stains. My car is a garage queen and is washed one a week it only goes outside on weekends. I tried re washing the area and QD a couple of times no luck, I have AIOx1 and SGx5. I figured that with the Klasse on there this would not happen. My question is what can I use to remove these stains without removing the Klasse if it is possible and I also have given it thought to Aio again but don't want to use it if I don't have to.

 

[MikeLS]

Have you tried using a clay bar? If so, I'd move on to a good (fairly strong) paint cleaner. Obviously, a paint cleaner will remove your Klasse in the areas where you apply it.



OR, for a home brew remedy, you could try WD-40 or refined mineral spirits...

 

[jkochis]

I would try using AIO first. You're going to have to reapply anyway, so why not eliminate a step. AIO is a very good cleaner.

 

[imported_Intermezzo]

I thought clay didn't remove Klasse and therefore would not require a fresh SG application. Is this a wrong assumption?

 

[jkochis]

I would never clay and assume that the Klasse is still there, others may think differently. Reasoning being that if you're removing something with clay, then whatever you are removing was previously attached to something. It was either attached to the Klasse or to the paint. If attached to the paint, then there was never Klasse there to being with, so it needs to be reapplied. If the particles were attached to Klasse, then I think the claybar would yank out the particles and probably some Klasse that it was attached to, so I would reapply. Like I said, others may think differently.

 

[imported_Intermezzo]

That's interesting because I've clayed over polymer sealants and there was no change in the amount of slickness or beading. Just much smoother. Granted, there is probably no more sealant on the tiny patches in which contaminants were removed, because obviously if you remove the contaminant, like you said there was either no sealant on the contaminant or the sealant was coating the contaminant. Either way, you have tiny patches where there is no sealant. But that's a heck of a lot better than using an abrasive to completely remove everything, especially for me as I've got about ten coats of sealant... no need to start all over. Just add one quick coat to maybe fill in the tiny patches where contaminants used to be.



I would say clay first and if that doesn't work, then use an abrasive on your paint.

 

[MikeLS]

won't remove Zaino. So, if Klasse is as durable as Zaino it shouldn't remove any or very little of the layering IMO. I still think it's a good idea though to rewax/seal the clayed areas...

 

[Tru_Shine]

Hey guys, This write up wont be as thorough as usual, some of the pictures didn't turn out as good as I had hoped. Also, no sun shots at the end. But anyways hope you enjoy.


I did this car a couple months back and I am just now getting around to posting the write up.
This belongs to one of my good customers who Ive had a chance to do a lot of cars for.

Let's see what is on the menu for today?


I arrived at the house and began my routine walk around to see what I was dealing with.

This is the plastic around the tail lights

Back Bumper

Faded Deck lid

For the wash process I used

Foam Dawn Wash with sheep skin washmitt
P21s Wheel Gel
EZ-Detail Brush
Red Medium grade Clay bar

Nasty gas lid area

After claying with a Red claybar.....it turned white....

Next using Meguiars masking tape, I taped up all of the black plastic trim.

Then before bringing the car inside for the correction, I did a couple of 50/50 test panels out in the sunlight. Sometimes it is very hard to capture these defects with the camera on white paint.

After pulling the car inside I made my way down the Driver Side and using the Lake Country Cyan Hydrotech pad using M105 compound.

Here is how the Rear Deck Lid looked before During and After

Here is an angle where you can see by removing a layer of that Dead & Faded Clear coat, that the paint is a whole different shade of White!

Next is the Taillights, they were severely swirled. here are some nice 50/50's

The customer asked me to polish out the 13B and all of the intercooler components, and pipes.

I taped off a section of the intercooler to see what kind of difference was actually being made. It's kind of hard to see but here are some 50/50 shots.

It brought back the depth and the shine in the aluminum

 

[Tru_Shine]

Not the best lighting but it looked a lot better.

So now I just had a little bit of correction left of the paint. here is the front passenger fender 50/50

After that, The car was polished out with M205 and a LC tangerine pad

Then Black Fire Wet Diamond was applied with a Lake country Blue Finishing pad

Sorry that I didn't get any out side shots, the car was finished really late and it was dark outside. but here are a few from inside the garage.

Thanks for watching, Hope you enjoyed!

-Eric

 

[meGrimlock]

never really liked mazda's rx-7 for some reason. as i learn more about rotaries and mazda's efforts i've grown to respect them immensely, but still don't know if i have a place in my heart for them.

however, i am always impressed by tasteful and beautiful FDs which are becoming more rare everyday. this one is no exception, very nice!

 

[imported_juliom2]

[oO]....wow
Thats a very nice recovery.....or I might say color change!
Good work......
:wizard:

 

[bmw5541]

Beautiful correction again Eric. I know what you mean about capturing defects on white cars, but they showed better then I thought. You did it justice my friend!!:hurray:

 

[GoFast908Z]

Very nice work Eric!

 

[imported_kakeuter]

Excellent work Eric! I can't wait to get a better camera so I can capture defects better. I think you did a great job capturing the ones on this car though, that's no an easy task.

Thanks for the write-up!

-Kody-