Favourite alum. and chrome polish
- Thread starter bcgreen
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Stick with the Mothers. Proven results.
Aluminum is VERY different than chrome. There are "All-Metal" polishes out there that kind of blur the line or understanding of what a "metal" polish is.
I do think that Mother`s makes some very fine metal-specific polishes and their cone and ball foam pads designed for cordless drills make polishing easier and with good results.
For true aluminum rims, I would suggest Mother`s Billet Polish.
For aluminum diamond tread plate and pontoon boat floats, I would suggest White Diamond Polish. I just saw this at Walmart, of all places!
For TRUE chrome rims (NOT clear-coated chrome, and yes, that is VERY common these days), I would suggest Mother`s Chrome Polish.
HOWEVER, after going to a car show recently, many owners of custom chrome rims prefer Eagle One Never Dull "wipes" in the can.
(never used them myself)
For chrome trim, I like Optimum`s Metal Polish or Simichrome.
For chrome bumpers, I have an old pre-VOC legislation bottle of Turtle Wax Chrome Cleaner that works wonders on rust and bugs.
For rust on chrome I have also used Meg`s M105 Compound that also works BY HAND and is a good way to use that compound that dust so badly when machine applied. Works really good on chrome runnning boards on trucks or SUVs.
The microfiber cloth you use for wipe-off makes a huge difference. If it is not absorbent enough, all you will do is "smear" the polish and it looks it too, especially on chrome. I see The Rag Company makes some metal polishing-specific microfibers, but I have not tried them. And yes, on aluminum and stainless steel ANY cloth you use will get black (which is WHY the ones from The Rag Company are black in color).
One other caveat about chrome is that some trim pieces are plastic that have a very thin chrome "film". GM grills are notorious for this and it is easy to over-rub and cause this film to flake off. Most interior pieces are the same way. I like MAAS or Simichrome on them because they are mild abrasive polishes. For narrow chrome interior trim (like gauge bezels rings, ventilation vents, dashboard accent trim, and rocker switches or control knobs), I use a cotton swab (AKA Q-Tip) for application and removal. Shiny interior chrome REALLY shows off in an interior.
And on exterior chrome or polished/brushed stainless steel trim, ALWAYS tape that off when you use a compound with a buffer machine. It is SOOOOO easy to seriously scratch and ruin that trim with a buffer and compound. (Been there, done that. Live and learn so you do not have to.)
I do think that Mother`s makes some very fine metal-specific polishes and their cone and ball foam pads designed for cordless drills make polishing easier and with good results.
For true aluminum rims, I would suggest Mother`s Billet Polish.
For aluminum diamond tread plate and pontoon boat floats, I would suggest White Diamond Polish. I just saw this at Walmart, of all places!
For TRUE chrome rims (NOT clear-coated chrome, and yes, that is VERY common these days), I would suggest Mother`s Chrome Polish.
HOWEVER, after going to a car show recently, many owners of custom chrome rims prefer Eagle One Never Dull "wipes" in the can.
(never used them myself)
For chrome trim, I like Optimum`s Metal Polish or Simichrome.
For chrome bumpers, I have an old pre-VOC legislation bottle of Turtle Wax Chrome Cleaner that works wonders on rust and bugs.
For rust on chrome I have also used Meg`s M105 Compound that also works BY HAND and is a good way to use that compound that dust so badly when machine applied. Works really good on chrome runnning boards on trucks or SUVs.
The microfiber cloth you use for wipe-off makes a huge difference. If it is not absorbent enough, all you will do is "smear" the polish and it looks it too, especially on chrome. I see The Rag Company makes some metal polishing-specific microfibers, but I have not tried them. And yes, on aluminum and stainless steel ANY cloth you use will get black (which is WHY the ones from The Rag Company are black in color).
One other caveat about chrome is that some trim pieces are plastic that have a very thin chrome "film". GM grills are notorious for this and it is easy to over-rub and cause this film to flake off. Most interior pieces are the same way. I like MAAS or Simichrome on them because they are mild abrasive polishes. For narrow chrome interior trim (like gauge bezels rings, ventilation vents, dashboard accent trim, and rocker switches or control knobs), I use a cotton swab (AKA Q-Tip) for application and removal. Shiny interior chrome REALLY shows off in an interior.
And on exterior chrome or polished/brushed stainless steel trim, ALWAYS tape that off when you use a compound with a buffer machine. It is SOOOOO easy to seriously scratch and ruin that trim with a buffer and compound. (Been there, done that. Live and learn so you do not have to.)
Billy Jack
Member
Nothing wrong with Mother`s, but for my El Camino, which has a bunch of real chrome and stainless, I favor Collinite #850 Metal Wax. Not only does it clean and remove oxidation, but it also leaves behind some protection. And, as we all know, Collinite knows a little about protection.
Bill
Bill
Accumulator
Well-known member
Yep, the ss trim on my Jag was so awful when *new* that I always thought it was supposed to be a "brushed finish" until my pal the concours judge clued me in. And the chrome on the top edge of the door handles wore through *despite* keeping the buffer away from it!
Chrome plating and stainless steel oughta be pretty tough materials, but you just never know...at least not until it`s too late
I`ve never been all that happy with the mothers polish myself, maybe just for the stuff I`ve tried to use it on
I`ll add a thumbs up for flitz on aluminum (bare) especially if it`s "soft", autosol will almost scratch some of the softer alloys (weld wheels used to be terrible for this) Blue magic was I believe the same stuff, one of the wenzol (spl) works well but I forget if it was the red or blue....
Adams #2 liquid works very well for adding color or depth for aluminum and stainless if the surface is already good, never found the #1 to be anything special but the #2 works well for the final wipe
Poorboys chrome polish is my current favorite for chrome (since running out of the ancient bottle of turtlewax I also had
I`ve got a couple of different ones from wolfgang but they are for something less than mirror polished
There`s a couple of boxed of metal polish in the closet, i`d have to go see what all I`ve gone through over the years
I`ll add a thumbs up for flitz on aluminum (bare) especially if it`s "soft", autosol will almost scratch some of the softer alloys (weld wheels used to be terrible for this) Blue magic was I believe the same stuff, one of the wenzol (spl) works well but I forget if it was the red or blue....
Adams #2 liquid works very well for adding color or depth for aluminum and stainless if the surface is already good, never found the #1 to be anything special but the #2 works well for the final wipe
Poorboys chrome polish is my current favorite for chrome (since running out of the ancient bottle of turtlewax I also had
I`ve got a couple of different ones from wolfgang but they are for something less than mirror polished
There`s a couple of boxed of metal polish in the closet, i`d have to go see what all I`ve gone through over the years
Accumulator
Well-known member
Could you please the idea of "Color or depth" for bare metals? I must be having a Brain Pause or something, but I don`t get that...
Just the terms we use.
I do a lot of custom stainless and aluminum parts for older cars (and way way back used to make knives but that`s another story) and when I polish most metals (starting with the good old Baldor buffer) it`s a two step process, cut and color (just like compound and polish for paint I guess)
Stuff like Flitz and adams #2 are "non abrasive" (or it`s so small they can be considered not there) but I find stuff like mothers, autosol and some of the others must have some "cleaners" in them they always seem to not quite get the depth / color / clarity I`m after with them.
The mothers billet is definitely better than the regular aluminum polish though.
M
I do a lot of custom stainless and aluminum parts for older cars (and way way back used to make knives but that`s another story) and when I polish most metals (starting with the good old Baldor buffer) it`s a two step process, cut and color (just like compound and polish for paint I guess)
Stuff like Flitz and adams #2 are "non abrasive" (or it`s so small they can be considered not there) but I find stuff like mothers, autosol and some of the others must have some "cleaners" in them they always seem to not quite get the depth / color / clarity I`m after with them.
The mothers billet is definitely better than the regular aluminum polish though.
M
BudgetPlan1
Active member
Kinda diggin` Polish Angel Palladium right now. Bonus points for the killer looks (and little bit of protection) it gives stainless steel kitchen appliances.
Accumulator
Well-known member
Mooser- Thanks for (at least trying to) educate me, this is clearly another field where I`m pretty ignorant At least I know what a Baldor is 
I will say that IME Flitz *is* abrasive. Nothing awful, but basically in the same category I`d place MAAS. I sure wouldn`t expect issues on SS (didn`t mess up some *highly* polished SS cutlery), nor on some aluminum, but I`d be careful with it. Just wouldn`t want somebody to try it on, say...something that`s blued/etc.
At least I know what a Baldor is I will say that IME Flitz *is* abrasive. Nothing awful, but basically in the same category I`d place MAAS. I sure wouldn`t expect issues on SS (didn`t mess up some *highly* polished SS cutlery), nor on some aluminum, but I`d be careful with it. Just wouldn`t want somebody to try it on, say...something that`s blued/etc.
Coatings=crack
Active member
Hey guys,
Not to thread jack but I got a metal polish questions also and didn’t want to start new thread
I got polished brush aluminum parts in my engine bay
Some of the parts are getting a discoloring from the heat I believe. I’ve tried mother metal and aluminum polish (not billet) by hand and no change. I think I’m going to need to poilish by machine. I would also like to polish exhaust tips. What’s a good machine polish (can I use the mothers by machine) to clean up and a good sealant to protect?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Not to thread jack but I got a metal polish questions also and didn’t want to start new thread
I got polished brush aluminum parts in my engine bay
Some of the parts are getting a discoloring from the heat I believe. I’ve tried mother metal and aluminum polish (not billet) by hand and no change. I think I’m going to need to poilish by machine. I would also like to polish exhaust tips. What’s a good machine polish (can I use the mothers by machine) to clean up and a good sealant to protect?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Accumulator
Well-known member
Coatings=crack- I dunno what to polish the brushed aluminum with (that might not mess up the brushed finish), although something in the English Polishes line oughta be OK.. but for protection what about one of the coatings made for metals? The (still unused) 22ple stuff I got for wheels is also formulated for that, but I have no idea how well it works. Also no idea how to prevent discoloration from heat..
FWIW, I`ve never had any problems using any Metal Polish by machine. Unless you`re talking high-speed rotary the machine is basically just a "fast hand that doesn`t get tired". Just don`t run the machine so fast that the product flashes too quickly and I`d expect it to go fine.
FWIW, I`ve never had any problems using any Metal Polish by machine. Unless you`re talking high-speed rotary the machine is basically just a "fast hand that doesn`t get tired". Just don`t run the machine so fast that the product flashes too quickly and I`d expect it to go fine.
Swanicyouth
New member
Curious how this came out. I have some experience with polishing metals - mostly from restoring antiques, making stuff, & some with cars.
I’ve tried many polishes / methods / tools. It varies depending on the metal you are working on. The very first thing you have to do is figure out if that metal has some type of coating or clear coat on it - my guess is if it was bought from a retail type manufacturer it does.
TBH, most “metal polishes” sold from automotive detailing type manufacturers are just not very aggressive or very good. There are some exceptions.
The thing is, if it’s coated - the damage or discoloration will be in the coating - not the metal. At that point, you have to decide if it’s feasible or desirable to strip the coating off the entire piece, polish it, and re-coat it with something else (or leave it raw).
So, let’s assume you are going to do that. First, raw aluminum is a pretty easy metal to polish / brighten / remove oxidation from. However, you will have to remove the coating first. There are many ways to do this....
As for the metal itself - if you don’t want to pick up metal specific polishing bars; the most aggressive stuff I’ve come across in the automotive detailing community is P21S metal polish. Not the polishing soap - but the stuff that comes in the silver toothpaste tube looking thing. You will get a better result if you follow it up with something less aggressive.
Quite honestly - polishing metal by hand is like polishing paint by hand - time consuming & a big PIA. A lot of what tool I’d use depends on if you are going to remove the parts from the vehicle or not.
As for coating it when you’re done - I’d look outside of detailing supplies. My experience is “ceramic coatings” don’t do squat. I’ve used lacquers from Mohawk & Everbright to protect metal - they are made for that & are available on Amazon. I can tell you they are more like a clear coat - substantially thicker and more protective than so called automotive coatings. How they hold up to engine heat would have to be researched.
I’ve tried many polishes / methods / tools. It varies depending on the metal you are working on. The very first thing you have to do is figure out if that metal has some type of coating or clear coat on it - my guess is if it was bought from a retail type manufacturer it does.
TBH, most “metal polishes” sold from automotive detailing type manufacturers are just not very aggressive or very good. There are some exceptions.
The thing is, if it’s coated - the damage or discoloration will be in the coating - not the metal. At that point, you have to decide if it’s feasible or desirable to strip the coating off the entire piece, polish it, and re-coat it with something else (or leave it raw).
So, let’s assume you are going to do that. First, raw aluminum is a pretty easy metal to polish / brighten / remove oxidation from. However, you will have to remove the coating first. There are many ways to do this....
As for the metal itself - if you don’t want to pick up metal specific polishing bars; the most aggressive stuff I’ve come across in the automotive detailing community is P21S metal polish. Not the polishing soap - but the stuff that comes in the silver toothpaste tube looking thing. You will get a better result if you follow it up with something less aggressive.
Quite honestly - polishing metal by hand is like polishing paint by hand - time consuming & a big PIA. A lot of what tool I’d use depends on if you are going to remove the parts from the vehicle or not.
As for coating it when you’re done - I’d look outside of detailing supplies. My experience is “ceramic coatings” don’t do squat. I’ve used lacquers from Mohawk & Everbright to protect metal - they are made for that & are available on Amazon. I can tell you they are more like a clear coat - substantially thicker and more protective than so called automotive coatings. How they hold up to engine heat would have to be researched.