Ever rediscover a product that had been on your shelf for years?

wfedwar

New member
I was applying a 2nd layer of Collinite 915 to my truck when I saw that I was getting some wax holograms. I've had problems with this before, and this is discussed in other threads (about 476S and 915). I was getting pretty ticked off, since I couldn't get rid of them by reapplying the wax or using a QD. Anyway, I decided to try an old wax that I had long forgotten--Collinite 845. Not only did it take care of the holograms (it may have just filled them--can't say for sure yet), but it also looked better than the 915 I had just applied. Not to mention it's incredibly easy to use. I got the 845 a year or so ago, when trying out the Collinites. I got 476S and 845 from Harbor Freight and ordered 915 online around the same time. By the time I was ready to try them, I already had in my mind that the 915 was the superior wax. I really only used the 845in a few test spots and settled to start using 915 from that point forward. Anyway, now I'm a believer in 845. I hope it lasts a while, but when it's as easy to apply as this, you can tolerate doing it more often. I'll also be watching to see if it protects from water etching as well as 476S and 915. I'll have to report back on that.



insulator-new[1].jpg




Collinite Liquid Insulator Wax #845
 
wfedwar- If the pseudo-holograms come back as the 845 ages, please post back. If, OTOH, this is a solution to them, that'd be great. Maybe the 845 does a solvent-action on the Collinite paste just enough to solve the problem...
 
Accumulator said:
wfedwar- If the pseudo-holograms come back as the 845 ages, please post back. If, OTOH, this is a solution to them, that'd be great. Maybe the 845 does a solvent-action on the Collinite paste just enough to solve the problem...



I will post back in a couple of weeks on this. That's probably enough time for them to show back up. I figure one of three things happened: 1) the solvent redissolved enough of the 915 to smooth it out, 2) the thinner 845 was able to penetrate into the tiny ridges and fill them in with fresh wax, or 3) the ridges are currently filled with an oil that will evaporate or wash off, reexposing the holograms. I've even thought about getting out a small pot and making a "soft" version of 915 by blending in some 845. Am I crazy???
 
wfedwar- I can't help but think that if it were as simple as mixing the various Collinites they woulda already done that, but who knows :nixweiss
 
Great thread. I was messing around with my cars this weekend. I was going through my detailing cabinet and stumbled upon some CK Vanilla Moose. I haven't used this stuff in ages. Applied via a UDM and a LC white pad. Left the finish looking super glossy before I put down a coat of Souveran.
 
I'm glad that I've found so many good things said lately about Collinite 845. I debated between ordering the 845 or the 476 when I purchased my RO buffer online. It is a Meguiar's G110.



I was leaning toward the 476 since it is generally considered the superior product, but I finally decided to get the 845 since it's a liquid wax. I felt that it would be easier to use. I am a machine buffer novice, so I want to take some baby steps.
 
I used Zaino AIO today (customer request), I forgot what a really good product it is. Really great base for all sealants.
 
Scottwax said:
I used Zaino AIO today (customer request), I forgot what a really good product it is. Really great base for all sealants.



Yeah, I still have a tiny bit of the sample BlkZ28Conv sent me, and it *is* really good stuff. Gotta be a little careful with its abrasives though, there are surfaces where Klasse's AIO is a better choice.



On old-time shelf-dwellers: I still have some Malm's liquid wax from no later than '90-'91. Their website *says* it'll last indefinitely, but I dunno...I've used plenty of oooold product, but this stuff is looking a bit on the dark-and-thick side :think: Still, I always liked that stuff and it did the "beads that roll right off the car" thing as well as any LSP I've ever used.
 
The thread about being impressed with meguiars and the one on glazes got me to thinking about #7 and I found an old bottle I had. On my old single stage paint it helped cover up some of the imperfections that the last 20-30 years had put in it (not sure how old the paint is or if it is original). Then from the bottom of the fridge I got the container of Zymol rouge that I always forget about until it gets in the way and put a coat of that on.

Very happy with the results but I can't wait to see what it looks like once the samples of M105 and M205 get here so I won't be trying to cover up quite so many defects.
 
Accumulator said:
Yeah, I still have a tiny bit of the sample BlkZ28Conv sent me, and it *is* really good stuff. Gotta be a little careful with its abrasives though, there are surfaces where Klasse's AIO is a better choice.



Which types surfaces have you had problems with ZAIO?
 
bert31 said:
Which types surfaces have you had problems with ZAIO?





My only first-hand experience with the too-aggressive thing was on plastic surfaces. Specifically, the black plastic portions of the A8's sideview mirror housings. ZAIO hazed one 'em up something awful, I had to use a three-step polishing process to bring it back. KAIO on the other hand is *VERY* close to functionally nonabrasive on the same pieces (I was doing a comparo between the two AIOs, Klasse on one sideview and Zaino on the other).



I'm OK with exptrapolating a bit from the above experience, based primarily on what I had to do to remove the ZAIO-induced hazing. I can imagine plenty of paints being as soft as the plastic pieces in question, which I've used abrasives on since forever.




zmanz said:
The thread about being impressed with meguiars and the one on glazes got me to thinking about #7 and I found an old bottle I had...



That reminds me of how Superior Shine used some *decades-old* #7 with great results. That suff seems to have quite a shelf-life!



Then from the bottom of the fridge I got the container of Zymol rouge that I always forget about..



Even without refrigeration, my circa 1985 jar of Zymol-made wax for interior wood (relabeled for BHMA) still works fine. And its cap has been cracked since a month or two after I bought it!
 
You guys are going to destroy me for this one...but I had some Meg's Gold Class that I busted out after a couple years. I love the way it looks on black and reds. With all the new stuff out to try I just quit using it. Durability is not very good but something about it really brings out that deep, wet look in darker colors.
 
I have had Meguiar's #26 wax in my arsenal ever since I learned how to detail years ago. I rarely use it, but every once in a while, I'll grab the bottle and use it for the heck of it. I am always happy with the results.



I am not much of a glaze user, but Meguiar's #7 always impresses me when I do use it.



DuraGloss 501 is another prodcut I have had on my shelf for a long time. Last year, "sal329" helped me on a couple of details. He grabbed it, and was using it for a lot of applications. I was amazed at the cleaning ability of it, as well as the shine it leaves behind. Now, I rarely leave the house to go to a job without it....I think I'll be using it as the AIO on a detail I have lined up for later this week as a matter of fact.
 
wfedwar said:
Ever rediscover a product that had been on your shelf for years?



Heh, that's funny - - Collinite was on the tip of my tongue before I opened this thread. I've been using it since the '80's and drifted away until a few years ago. The Spilchy technique is what re-opened my eyes.



Wool pads on a rotary buffer are products/tools I'd have to list. Probably shouldn't be saying that in light of the KB methodology :secret



As cars change in the garage, it sometimes mandates going back and trying things that haven't been touched for ages - - assuming they're still useable. I have this Honda and its soft paint, still trying to effectively manage that :nervous:
 
Scottwax said:
I used Zaino AIO today (customer request), I forgot what a really good product it is. Really great base for all sealants.



How does ZAIO compare to Werkstat Prime?
 
bert31 said:
How does ZAIO compare to Werkstat Prime?



ZAIO has a little more cut to it. The sealant base they lay down is different, Zaino is polymer based and Prime is acrylic. Apples to oranges but in the end I bet the durability is similar.
 
I mentioned this in another thread but about a month ago I found an un-opened can of One Grand Blitz wax that was about 3-4 years old. The top layer "skinned" a little bit so I simply rubbed it off to reveal fresh wax underneath.



On my new car (bought in November) I tried a few different waxes over a clay job and a light cut polish but thought it could look better. So I went the sealant route, using Werkstat Prime Strong and several layers of AJT. Still, it seemed to be missing something, looked a little too bright and 2 dimensional for my taste.



So I poked around the "garage" (aka the car sized storage unit with a driveway that came with the house) and found some Meguiar's DC3. Nice shine, nice feel, but it muted the metallic way too much and made it too dark(it's a charcoal gray paint with mica).



Months later, I stumbled across a shiny new can of Blitz. I didn't want to start over with the Prime and AJT layers so I just washed off the DC3 with commercial car wash detergents, which didn't seem to phase the Werkstat stuff but I could tell the wax was gone.



Put a couple thin coats of Blitz on - great! It added just a little bit of darkness to help reveal contours and didn't mute the mica at all! The stuff is a little harder to apply and remove and doesn't have the slicker feel that newer carnubas do, but man does it look good on this car! It's also tough as hell, but doesn't have any solvents in it, so I wound up sealing a few stray water spots on.



I washed it every week for 3 and noticed no change in the appearance at all, so far so good. Then a neighbor dented the car the day before I was gonna wax it again. Awesome.



The repair shop "waxed" the whole car with something pretty murky, ruining the look I worked so hard to achieve. Also, I wanted to remove any fillers they might have used to hide flaws in their work so I could inspect it (they did good work).



So I filled a bucket with heavy concentration of Dawn and hot water then got to work. The only thing they painted, i.e., didn't have any Werkstat or Blitz on it, was the front fascia. One easy pass with the dish soap took care of that. But the rest of the car was still beading like crazy, so I took another pass. Still beading. Filled up another bucket with an even thicker concentration, and put a fair amount of pressure on the finish. Then did it again. Finally, the Blitz was gone (and likely much of the Werkstat too) so I started over with the acrylics.



Order was restored to the universe. It's very clear, not too bright or too dark, and instead of needing a damp, lightly soaped rag to clean dried bird plop off, I can just swipe it off easily with a dry microfiber.



It's old, it's hard to get, but it's still one of the best, IMO.
 
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