Engine Block Cleaning

C

capt512

New member
Hoping someone can point me in the right direction.



I have tried numerous times over the years to clean the engine in my DD 01 Crown Vic, and while I have been able to get the plastics and paint clean, I've never been able to get the block clean.



I've tried gunk engine cleaner, purple power degreaser, eagle one wheel & tire, mother's mag wheel polish, toothbrushes, steel brushes, brass brushes, etc and all I get is either a darker grey from the brushes, or a white spotted engine block (corrosion?).



Here is a picture of the block, where if you look closely you can see the white spotted engine block cover and overall dirtiness.





stuff048.jpg




I'm not looking for any amazing shiny block, just as close as I can get to the factory silverish color.



Thanks for any tips you can provide.
 
capt512- Fellow Panther platform fan here. My '01 is still a work-in-progress that's taking forever...if I ever get it back from the shop :rolleyes: (and that might be one big "if"), I'll probably be dealing with the same situation.



The shop cleaned mine up with Gunk Engine Cleaner, but I kinda doubt that they got things as nice as you want yours.



I think the problem is oxidation; oxidized aluminum (heads) and rusted iron (block). Well, that and the greasy/oily dirt that needs cleaned off.



Something I've had decent luck with is using brushes on a Dremel, along with metal polishes. Either the brass or nylon brushes, but not the steel ones. But about the best I've ever accomplished was getting a somewhat uniform gray finish. I've used AutoGlym Bumper Care (of all things!) to maintain this finish. It's my #1 approach for oxidized alternator housings, so you might try the Dremel approach on yours for starters and see how it works. Don't get so aggressive that you cut all the way through the oxidized finish down to bare metal; it's a balancing act and you just want to get rid of the white [stuff].



I used Meguiar's NXT metal polish with my Dremel, and it worked sorta-OK by hand too.



I used a flex-shaft on the Dremel to extend my reach, made it a whole lot easier and was definitely money well-spent.



Putting a good rust converter on the rusted areas might leave them better, or at least you'll get a gray look instead of the "this is rust" look. Normally I'd top the rust converter with Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator and then top with some enamel, but I kinda doubt that the Rust Encapsulator would hold up well given the heat (works great on accessory brackets/etc. though).



Sorry I don't have a better answer, maybe I'll know more if/when I get mine back and start cleaning it up. The above is based on what I've done with other engines. Other than the issue in question, that's a *GREAT* looking engine compartment you have there, nice to see one in such clean condition :xyxthumbs
 
I have had good luck with wd-40 on oxidated aluminum metal, spray it and leave it. After time it will remove the rust and crap off the aluminum
 
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