Downsides of extra clear as i'm painting my project?

V_Eight

V_Eight

I wish I detailed good
There might be a few drawbacks to it that i'm unaware of, but I can't think of anything bad about shooting a few extra coats of clear when I go to paint my project.



I'm going for ability to correct the paint for years to come as well as zero orange peel, both of which will require eating away at the clear, so the use of extra clear comes to mind.



Thoughts?
 
What are you working on? What clear do you plan on using?



You can shoot 3 coats, sand it down with 600, let it sit for few days in the sun.

Then (clean/mask) and shoot 3-4 more coats. This is called a "flow coat."

And it's commonly done on show cars, using a good quality clear.



For materials and technique join here: SPI Users Forum :: Index
 
I see no drawbacks as long as you are keeping the contaminents to a minimum instead of covering them with more clear.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
Wait...you're not going to vinyl wrap it??
Click to expand...



I decided against it after seeing this paint color:



MustangWeekMissionTrip09022.jpg




:wow:
 
Flashtime said:
What are you working on? What clear do you plan on using?



You can shoot 3 coats, sand it down with 600, let it sit for few days in the sun.

Then (clean/mask) and shoot 3-4 more coats. This is called a "flow coat."

And it's commonly done on show cars, using a good quality clear.



For materials and technique join here: SPI Users Forum :: Index
Click to expand...



Awesome. Thank you!



I would be using duPont Finish Master IIRC. I'm headed to the paint shop now to look at Hot Huez swatches and will clarify what exactly my friend had in mind to sell me.



This will be for my seventh Mustang, this time crazier than ever.



jking said:
I see no drawbacks as long as you are keeping the contaminents to a minimum instead of covering them with more clear.
Click to expand...



So doing the "flow coat" as mentioned by flashtime?
 
David Fermani said:
No negatives as long as the prep work is good. It's a great idea. Is your shop on point with your suggestion?
Click to expand...



I'm spraying it myself. Is that what you're asking about?



The clear is BASF Diemant line.
 
There is one drawback i can think of; and that is excessive film build

which be more prone to chipping. Especially if you're using a harder

clear meant for collision work. Not sure of the Diamont clear you have

in mind.



PM this guy (JimC): SPI Users Forum :: View topic - ransom's new bike



He does mostly bikes and flow coats all his work. Very knowledgeable fella.

Or BarryK the owner of SPI as he makes clears for custom/resto and

collision stuff.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
Ah...the ol' burnt orange...
Click to expand...



It's BASF Carizzma Orange Pearl over White Base. :2thumbs:



Flashtime: Just like my last semi-show Mustang, the front bumper is the only thing that needed paint maintenance because of chipping, so i'm prepared to do that again with this one anyways. I might have to "clear bra" it seeing as I get the stuff dirt cheap.
 
OTG,



A clear bra is a good idea!



Here's a flow coat example. 3 coats of SPI Universal, sand 600, then 3 coats of

SPI MS clear. Clearing over sanded clear - with a good flow clear - produces

very nice results. And you either greatly reduce or completely eliminate

a phenomenon called "urethane wave." Important know regarding hig solids

clear... Also, basecoat/pearl coat are the weakest link in the entire job, so

it's a good idea to "activate" them by adding a bit of clear hardner.



The "speed shape" was just a test. The rear fender is gun finished as it sits

here getting ready to be sanded down and taped up for the flame layout.

P1000580.jpg


P1000670.jpg




Flow coated, sanded and polished:

P1000792.jpg




More pics of project: Bike 2 pictures by zsolo - Photobucket



Good luck!
 
Flashtime said:
OTG,



A clear bra is a good idea!



Here's a flow coat example. 3 coats of SPI Universal, sand 600, then 3 coats of

SPI MS clear. Clearing over sanded clear - with a good flow clear - produces

very nice results. And you either greatly reduce or completely eliminate

a phenomenon called "urethane wave." Important know regarding hig solids

clear... Also, basecoat/pearl coat are the weakest link in the entire job, so

it's a good idea to "activate" them by adding a bit of clear hardner.



The "speed shape" was just a test. The rear fender is gun finished as it sits

here getting ready to be sanded down and taped up for the flame layout.

P1000580.jpg


P1000670.jpg




Flow coated, sanded and polished:

P1000792.jpg




More pics of project: Bike 2 pictures by zsolo - Photobucket



Good luck!
Click to expand...



I dont mean this to step on your toes or even in a bad way, just out of curiosity, but are those swirls in the paint where its reflecting the sunlight? Ive always had a fascination with custom paint jobs, just rarely get to work with a nice one.
 
Yes! 2 different clears; one super soft and the other "soft."

Even a wipe with a MF towel will swirl it (with the first clear).



The first pic of the fender (with the speed shape on top) is gun finish.

By all standards, this clear is super soft; polishes out much easier months/years

later. The last pic, with the flames, is also soft but not as soft as the first;

same manufacturer. Next door is a commercial wood shop and dust is constant.



Here's the latest job with the same clear. Also with some slight swirls

but good enough to let go as is.



SPI MS clear (the soft clear):

P1010283.jpg


P1010264.jpg




My old bimmer. Sold 2 years ago. Bazillion passes with Ultrafina...

SPI Universal clear (the SUPER soft clear):

bmw318is03.jpg




Transtar Euro Clear; a production clear that's somewhat soft but MUCH

harder than the clears used above:

P1000441.jpg


P1000438.jpg


Action!

P1000388.jpg


P1000384.jpg


My handy dandy "lip" tool:

lipservice.jpg




:)



These aren't exactly "production" clears used in body shops, they are

designed and better suited to custom/restoration jobs. Different characteristics...
 
:)



I know, it's not quite up to "Autopian" standards...But it's good practice.

I figure, if i can polish out an ultra soft clear, even to this level, then

i can polish out anything.
 
Flashtime said:
:)



I know, it's not quite up to "Autopian" standards...But it's good practice.

I figure, if i can polish out an ultra soft clear, even to this level, then

i can polish out anything.
Click to expand...



While this is true (I owned a Black S2000, which is notoriously soft as well) Ill have to say now that Ive been doing this a while and with a DA machine, the soft clears are an easy task, while the new german clears are what kicks your butt now!:waxing:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top