"Don't overwork the product" ???

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pwaug

New member
When experienced detailers offer advice to us beginners I've seen many mention "Don't overwork the product" and am confused as to what it means. If using UNO, which has a long working time, can you use 6 passes (if the paint needs it) with firm pressure and then 2 passes with light pressure to finish? Would this be overworking the product? Or should you be doing 3-4 passes with firm pressure, clean the pad and paint, add more UNO then proceed with more passes??
 
I think the problem with beginners is they try to make everything an exact science. Too many are stuck behind the computer screen trying to learn. Get out there, polish some paint and see what works for you.
 
^ exactly what I did (on both counts). I read and researched for months before purchasing anything. Then, it was all practice and trial and error on my own car so see what worked and what didn't. I've narrowed it down A LOT since then to what works well and I stick to it.
 
Yep, paint polishing is not an exact science, its much more an art. There are so many variables that come into play:



-paint

-temperature

-humidity

-machine

-pads

-polish (even down to batch/revision)



and the biggest one is the operator!
 
"Dig in" as they say. Feel the pad under your work....compensate for a damp day. Compensate for a dry day. Know the conditional reaction to the environment your in. Talk to the paint surface so to speak. Pick three products that you seem to like. Pick your favorite pad. Start on cars that dont need too much correcting at first. Buff most products to a thin haze and wipe off one way with a soft cotton cloth.....experiment. Use the lake country green pad with wolfgang sealer. You will feel like detailer of the year. Have FUN..... Shine since 1969 Paintxpert
 
When I started polishing cars back 38 years ago. Things were very different. I always did what worked for me. If I can give you one piece of advice.....that would be it. Do what works for you, in other words go with your heart. I dont care what your doing, if your hearts in it, it will turn out positive. We are only human. Second best this time means TOP NOTCH next time! Stay positive and persevere!
 
paintxpert said:
When I started polishing cars back 38 years ago. Things were very different. I always did what worked for me. If I can give you one piece of advice.....that would be it. Do what works for you, in other words go with your heart. I dont care what your doing, if your hearts in it, it will turn out positive. We are only human. Second best this time means TOP NOTCH next time! Stay positive and persevere!
Click to expand...



Solid advice. As a newbie, I got discouraged with lack of result. So I took a break, decided not to quit and wanted to persevere.
 
Someone can tell you the chemical makeup of a product, how and when to use it along with the pad, speed and pressure to use, but that’s only the Science; there is no substitute for real-world experience, which is where the Art takes over.



Experience and skill do not come overnight, the learning curve isn't that steep but there is a faily long stretch until you reach its apex, enjoy the ride
 
Thanks for the input!! I do understand that I have to just get to it, but I'll only have two cars to work on regularly and perhaps a third on occasion so I'm trying to shorten my learning curve as much as possible. I used my GG RO to apply LSP to both of our cars to get a feel for using it and done I've 4 test areas on my wife's car with UNO since it is going to be replaced and will be doing a full polish on my Passat with HD Speed when it arrives.



I only asked the question regarding "Don't overwork the product" because on one hand everyone mentions that UNO has a long working time, but there have been a few posts where "Don't overwork the product" is mentioned and that is confusing. Was just looking for some clarification between the two.
 
The main problem that is encountered when 'over working a product' is when a polish is over worked it runs out of oils that are used to lubricate the paint surface, this leads to overheating of the paint a a possibility of strickethrough (friction) burning through the clear coat)
 
Jon---YUUPPP!

Got to have some lubrication of the surface so the abrasives, etc can work without "tearing up" the finish as it works it down.

Sort of like "wet sanding" a painted automotive surface, much the same.

Grumpy
 
I'm one of the people who says "don't overwork the product" fairly often. Didn't mean to be inscrutable :o



With polishes/compounds, I almost always prefer to buff the product off while it's still a little wet. None of that "work it until it dusts" for me unless I have a specific reason to do it.



If you work a product too long, even if there's no damage or other serious issue, it can still be a real PIA to buff it off. Even KAIO, one of the most user-friendly products ever, can be a bear to get off if you work it at too high a speed for too long.



Warning- sorta-rant follows:



[Accumulator climbs onto his soapbox again...]



As an aside, and I realize this will be a minority/heretical/unpopular opinion, I'd *prefer* that people ask questions and research/study/think rather than just going out and polishing paint. I simply don't believe that the average non-pro should need to do much "practicing" at all, they oughta be able to get good results right from the start.



IMO 99% of detailing is dead-nuts simple, at least if you understand what's going on (as Kevin Brown demonstrates time and time again :xyxthumbs ).



It's easy enough to just use a no-brainer approach with a nice easy learning curve. And most stuff has an easier learning curve if you really think it through before you start. Just no need for much trial-and-error. Especially the "error" part ;)



Use approaches that are idiot-proof, or at least "Accumulator-proof", and get it done right the first time. Get on with the rest of your life.



OK, OK, end of rant :o



[Accumulator climbs down off soapbox]
 
Thanks guys for the explanation of "Don't overwork the product" -- cleared up any confusion on my part.



Accumulator-- the "sort of rant" is good to hear and kind of justifies my decisions-- I decided on UNO because it seemed user friendly and why I think I'll start with Speed on my VW since the paint is in good shape (just light linear marring) from 6 years of careful, but not Accumulator style washing. I value your input--thanks!
 
My old boss used to say. If all else fails "Read the directions". Most of these detailing and correction chemicals have pretty good instructions on how to use them. This site will be of great assistance, if and when needed. There seems to be plenty of great info right here. Happy detailing!
 
pwaug- In my so-far limited use of Uno, I haven't always been able to get it to finish out quite the way I'd like (user-error, no doubt). Not wanting to struggle to master it, I used a different finishing polish (1Z High Gloss) for the final passes. Just a heads-up in case you have any similar issues, kinda a "it's not just you" reassurance :D



paintxpert said:
My old boss used to say. If all else fails "Read the directions"...
Click to expand...



Right. AKA "RTFM" :chuckle:



Though there can be a few cases where the instructions are *wrong*...e.g., "moisten the pad" with BF's GEP and "buff it off before it dries" with numerous waxes.
 
its never been easier to polish paint than it is today.

heat delaminates the clearcoat, a dry pad becomes an angle grinding disc sort of and digs a hole in it



with the non diminishing and diminishing abrasive technology of today's products, its almost impossible to overwork a product. just dont let the pad dry out



I've run my choice of product for 15 mins and it still doesnt dry up.
 
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