Does anyone else have this problem??

02Viggen

New member
Well we had a pretty harsh winter here in Ontario Canada and I just cleaned up both my cars this weekend after a long winter. Well for the most part they look good after a nice long wash, however, there is what appears to be little copper spots all over the car. They look like rust but you can pick them off with you nail and then just wash over them and they are gone.. But there are quite a lot of them and they are on my moldings and the paint.



Now is this just surface contaniments and will claying take care of these. I havent yet started detailing I will wait a few weeks until the temps rise some more. But this is the first time I have had it on my cars after a winter season.



Thanks guys
 
Clay it Devin. I just went through the exact same scenario last weekend on 3 cars. Claying took care of the problem perfectly.
 
02Viggen said:
......What is it just a form of oxidization?

Yes, but you probably picked up tiny specs of metal left from the snow plow blades scraping the street. Not uncommon where there is a lot of snow, but a careful claying should pull it out. You might want to break your clay bar into little pieces and just discard them rather than risk marring your finish with a bit of metal that didn't get kneaded out properly.
 
02Viggen- You might want to look into a paint decontamination product to neutralize any below paint surface rust



Corrosion:

Corrosion (rust) destroys metal by an electro-chemical reaction with water as the catalyst (water + ozone (an oxidizer) moisture + oxygen). Corrosion arresting products are available that penetrate corrosion cells, emulsify the moisture and separates it from the metal leaving an ultra-thin barrier to protect the metal from further damage.



It is not enough to simply seal over existing corrosion by moisture displacement. While this technique will prevent further contact with the electrolyte, (moisture), it also traps existing moisture under the sealant, thus allowing that corrosion to continue.



Corrosion arresting products, when applied to a moist surface, will wick the moisture through the coating to the surface. A major study on rust proofing 2-3 years ago stated that an annually applied petroleum based product offered the best protection. Rubber coating such as Ziebart were not recommended as water or moisture can be entrapped between the rubber coating and the sheet metal making matters worse and also the best time to apply the product is in the summer months contrary to the cooler fall months, this way the product remains liquid and will penetrate folds and crannies.



The cause-

Particles produced from the friction of brake pads rubbing against the rotor, rail wheel friction on tracks or the metal scoop of a snow plough. This metal on metal friction disperses tiny particles of statically charged black dust, which adheres to the wheel and other vehicle surfaces. Sequestered brake dust, if left for any length of time will cause galvanic corrosion, which etches the paint surface allowing contaminants like acid rain, ozone, sulphuric acid, dioxide and nitric acids to penetrate the paint film surface.

Once the clear coat is compromised UV radiation will further degrade the paint by causing oxidation.

The metallic brake dust acts as a conduit for industrial contaminants to permeate the paint film surface, that over time can cause permanent etching which, take the contaminants harmful effects (corrosion) right to the base of the paint system and down to the vehicles sheet metal.



Neutralizing -

Washing the paint film surface with a slightly alkaline car wash concentrate and thoroughly rinsing will neutralize the contaminants and remove them from the paints surface Detailer's clay removes imbedded brake dust and other contaminants by encapsulation, thereby eliminating the primary cause



Treatment-

By applying a suitable cleaner (Por-15® Products Marine Clean) and then a rust inhibitor (POR-15® Products) it will arrest corrosion on contact without leaving a sticky residue that would attract dirt, dust or grime. Corrosion attacks metal by an electro¬chemical (galvanic) reaction with water as the catalyst.



It penetrates the corrosion cells, emulsifying the moisture and separating it from the metal, leaving an ultra-thin barrier to protect from further damage. Since most corrosion begins in crevices, (seams), it is important to have the capability to penetrate these crevices in order to form a protective barrier. Many heavier or more viscous products don't penetrate crevices, instead they form a `bridge', and while this may isolate the crevice from further contact with the electrolyte it does nothing to eliminate the presence of existing moisture or surface corrosion. Injection into a seam or crevice with an aerosol or spray eliminates this problem.

JonM
 
Great Guys thanks for the info..



I just got Meguiars Mild Clay (there new replacement to the overspray clay) so I will give that a shot in the next couple weeks and see how it turns out..
 
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