Do you wear gloves when detailing?

Do you wear gloves when detailing?

  • No, I never wear gloves

    Votes: 13 33.3%

  • Yes, to protect my skin from harsh chemicals

    Votes: 5 12.8%

  • Yes, when I ONR wash outside

    Votes: 1 2.6%

  • Yes, to prevent fingerprints

    Votes: 1 2.6%

  • Yes, to prevent scratching

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Yes, to keep my hands clean

    Votes: 1 2.6%

  • Yes, all of the above

    Votes: 7 17.9%

  • Sometimes, depends on circumstances

    Votes: 10 25.6%

  • Other... explain...

    Votes: 1 2.6%
  • Total voters
    39
SuperBee364

SuperBee364

New member
Hey Ron,



As you seem to be a knowledged source of information on paint and clearcoats for cars and trucks I just thought I might pose this question to you for a professional opinion.

I'm having some SRIM plastic body panels replaced and painted by a GM dealership and am wondering what you think about the quality of an aftermarket paint job is as compared to an OEM? Although I hope the quality will be there, what is your opinion of it visually along with durability etc. in comparison. And feel free to add any other thoughts about it.



Regards
 
I'm not Ron :) but he told me to try ot get a paint job with a warrantee. He'll definitely be able to expand on this topic.
 
I look forward to Ron's answer, but I can tell you that there is a basic difficulty in answering your question. Comparing an OEM paint job to an "aftermarket" paint job cannot be done unless you specify what one's budget is for the aftermarket job.



After market paint jobs range from about $250 to perhaps $50,000. A "good" paint job in LA, done with high end (Lexus) factory paint and sanding runs about $3,500 on an intermediate sized car. A more expensive, nice paint job, can run around $6,000. If you want many coats with color sanding in between, meticuous attention to quality, etc., the price goes up from there.



I think that most aftermarket paint jobs are vastly inferior to OEM. And, if you are willing to spend a lot of money, they can be better.
 
GM, along with Ford and DCX formed a coalition back in 98 and required all paint suppliers of refinish materials to submit for approvals. This was to assure that they would meet the quality for refinishing of vehicles still under warranty.



The paint, since going on composite parts should have some elastimeric additive,(flex agents) added.



As long as the dealer has some I-CAR certification, the paint shop is using approved material and the paint supplier has trained the personel, that is about the best you can get.



Now, if the painter has a hangover or a fight going on with his S/O, the day he shoots the parts, all bets are off. Same with the guy sitting at the computer center at the assembly plant!



You shouldn't have a problem, just make sure the have some sort of written warranty for you.



Ketch

:up
 
Thanks for the response. That's about what I figured. The dealer say's nothing is ever as good as the factory but that I shouldn't be able to tell the difference. I better not or I'd have to put a smack down on em. LOL
It's all under warantee not to mention free so I guess I can just kick back, smoke a butt and enjoy the shine.

bluegrab.gif
 
I thought only us, the younger ones, were the ones to watch the WWF. I've been watching it since I was a small kid, even got to see Wrestle Mania I-present on tape. I was Undertakers fan when he was with Paul Bearer.



Well, I'll stop and say, "GM dealership look up at me, not the people's streudal."
 
Some chemicals out there are a little too harsh for my skin (getting old) and also to help keep dirty finger prints off the car.
 
I wear work gloves when machine polishing to maintain my grip and protect my hands.

If I'm going to clean nasty wheels or degrease an engine, I'll wear long rubber gloves.

When Bryan and I are working together, and I want to polish wheels or some type of metal, I steal his nitrile gloves.

The rest of the time, I'm bareback.
 
In the winter, or when temps drop into the forties, I wear some heavy duty rubber gloves to wash the car.

Otherwise the wash water is just too cold.
 
I buy the Nitrile gloves at Costco and they work fine for keeping all the different chemicals off my hands.

I do wear out the fingertips sometimes, so have to change them out for a new pair.

They also grip things better and dont have a problem holding microfiber like bare dry hands do - well not a problem, but you know how they tend to stick to your hands when they are dry?

I have a longer, rubber pair to wear when I wash a car outside and the temps are in the freezing range, but I get about 4 gallons of hot water in my wash bucket and fill the last gallon with cold and it really helps keep my hands from freezing off out there.

These Nitrile gloves are thin enough so you get used to them quickly and dont drop much stuff or lose your "touch" when using them.

Hands stay alot cleaner and dont have issues with chemicals..
Dan F
 
Hand Protection; Gloves- with the verity of chemicals a detailer uses on a daily basis wearing Nitrile rubber cloves (my pref) or a good quality Barrier cream will protect your skin

Stokdgs - some very valid points for using hand protection
 
I only wear them when the weather gets cold and I do an ONR wash. I probably should wear them whenever I clean my wheel, as the break dust gets my hands black.
 
I almost always wear gloves.

I use the Nitrile or a set of cheap Stanley (get 'em in the supermarket or Home Depot) gloves when polishing, doing engines, wheels or most exterior work. Polish really dries out my hands.
I really like the supermarket Stanley's... they have a stretch backing that makes them fit well and the "grip" part of them works great for holding a polisher.

I use rubber gloves when washing, regular ol' Playtex ones... I know, not macho:o, but it sure beats having my hands get dry and having cracked skin.

I always have a bottle of hand lotion around as well. My skin dries out easy and it's pretty painful when the skin on my hands is all dried out and cracked.

Gloves = :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:
 
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