Do I need to step up my game?

S

Scooter2525

New member
Beginner here, just purchased the Meg's DA machine. Trying to get a hang of this detailing thing and want to practice on my car, that by all means needs a new paint job. Anyways, tried getting this scratch out with a power setting of 5, w8207 pad and Meg's UC. After a few passes, the surface feels great but this one is stubborn. Do I have a chance? Wrong technique? Thanks!

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Do you catch a nail on it when you glide over it? If so, you cannot remove.

If not, reduce the working area, go to a smaller pad, and use slower arm motions. Ensure not using so much pressure that the pad stops turning. Might even need a more aggressive pad/polish combo. Cutting MF pads do wonders.
 
I barely catch, if it all. I've gone over it a half dozen or so times and it's improved. I'm guessing UC with megs w9207 would be the next best option? Or a stronger compound with the pad I have already?
 
Scooter2525 said:
Beginner here, just purchased the Meg's DA machine. Trying to get a hang of this detailing thing and want to practice on my car, that by all means needs a new paint job. Anyways, tried getting this scratch out with a power setting of 5, w8207 pad and Meg's UC. After a few passes, the surface feels great but this one is stubborn. Do I have a chance? Wrong technique? Thanks!
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The Meguiar's W8207 is Meguiar's Soft Buff™ 2.0 Polishing Pad. What size pad are you using? From what I can tell these are available in 7" and larger pad sizes.

These Porter Cable 7424 type dual action polishers work best with about a 6" maximum diameter pad. Personally, I find the 5 1/2" diameter pads perform the best on my Porter Cable 7424 dual action polisher.

Meguiar's offers a great new product called Meguiar's DA Microfiber Correction System. This system really works and was developed to be used as a one-two punch...

Meguiars DA Microfiber Correction System 5 Inch Starter Kit

Try using an Orange 5 1/2" Lake Country flat pad with Meguiar's Ultimate Compound on speed 5.

Lake Country 5 1/2 inch Flat Foam Pads
Dual Action Flexible 5 inch Backing Plate

Prime the pad then add 1 line of Meguiar's Ultimate Compound across the pad. Place the pad against the finish then switch on the machine. Keep your correction to sections no larger than lets say 2' X 2' and perform 4 sectional passes.

I like Menzerna products and highly recommend this bundle

Menzerna Power Gloss, Power Finish & Super Finish Bundle

Some informational links that might help :bigups

How To Prime a Foam Pad
How To Polish Car Paint
Removing Paint Imperfections
 
Great links and great info. I think I'll need to try some of those cutting pads. With my DA machine, I have a 6" backing plate. What's the advantage to the 5"? As a value for my dollar, I would like to keep the 6" unless it makes THAT much of a difference?
 
Scooter2525 said:
Great links and great info. I think I'll need to try some of those cutting pads. With my DA machine, I have a 6" backing plate. What's the advantage to the 5"? As a value for my dollar, I would like to keep the 6" unless it makes THAT much of a difference?
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The smaller diameter backing plate and pad will be able to rotate easier since the machine can now work on 1" less diameter of pad and the friction between it and the paintwork. Sometimes, a smaller diameter pad is needed to get into tight spaces, and lastly, on a powerful machine, the smaller diameter pad is much easier to handle for the user.

Where are you located? Perhaps someone on this Forum is close by and maybe come by or bring you a different set up?

I like to run my Meguiars G110V2 full on all the way to 6 and give it a lot of downward pressure at first to work the product into the paint and then lessen the pressure just enough to get pad rotation.

My Rotary could knock that out in just a few minutes... :) :) :)

Dan F
 
Scooter2525 said:
Great links and great info. I think I'll need to try some of those cutting pads. With my DA machine, I have a 6" backing plate. What's the advantage to the 5"? As a value for my dollar, I would like to keep the 6" unless it makes THAT much of a difference?
Click to expand...

Hi Scooter,

Pad size with these machines is very important as pad rotation is required to correct properly. If you had a Flex 3401 which incorporates forced or geared rotation then balancing force no longer becomes an issue.

I little reading on pad size and it's affects...

The 6 1/2" diameter pads a Porter Cable 7424 in my opinion pushes the limit of the machine and this could be part of the problem.

I have the same machine and found a world of difference when I decided to try Lake Country 5 1/2 diameter pads.

The Porter Cable 7424 style dual action polisher should come standard with 5 1/2 inch pads and corresponding backing plate.

Pads & Friction

The size or surface area does not directly affect the frictional force between two surfaces until downward force or pressure is applied. Reducing the pad size will only improve the mechanical efficiency of the machine.

The motor of your polisher produces some amount of power. The larger the pad surface area the harder the motor must work. Now, most will say "it's only 1 extra inch", but when it comes to surface area and friction your really talking about an additional 10 square inches. Now take a look at the difference between the 5 1/2", 6 1/2" and 7" pad...........Size does matter!

Surface Area - 5 1/2 pad = 23.75 in²
Surface Area - 6 1/2 pad = 33.18 in²
Surface Area - 7 pad = 38.484 in²

There is a direct relationship between the pad surface area and the polishers ability to transfer adequate power to the pad improving it's overall performance.

I understand about the hard earned cash that you've already invested. I'm not saying you can't polish with 6 1/2 pads you simply need to be cognizant of the pressure and pad rotation.
 
BobbyG said:
I understand about the hard earned cash that you've already invested. I'm not saying you can't polish with 6 1/2 pads you simply need to be cognizant of the pressure and pad rotation.
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Great explanation. Technique and knowledge make a huge difference, it seems. I'm drinking the fire hose of detailing and their is a lot of water.
$$$ is a big part of it. In the back of my mind, I would like to pick up side jobs of detailing, but long long after I learn/try to master the art of detailing. Good thing for this site! On your initial post in this thread, the MEG's scratch remover seems like my next purchase that might help with what I'm setting out to accomplish on this car. Thanks!
 
Todd Helme said:
Any updates?
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Yes and no. Removed the scratch and it looks a lot better. Went on to use the Meg's DA correction system on the rest of the car. Worked great on the majority of the etched water spots. Then proceeded to work on the '10 Pilot before taking it on a road trip. Finished most of it and dabbled in a little wet sanding. Improved some of the light scratches on it but not all. While on the road trip, brought some QD to remove bugs. The car sat afterwards for 8 days and I didn't want them to damage the CC. Got back from Hawaii and the car needed to be washed. Took it to a touch less car wash. A day after, noticed in the sun a number of swirls where I haven't detailed and where I did just 2 weeks before. Got back home and have been very discouraged about the whole thing. So a brand new GG DA machine sits unused and I'm avoiding detailing due to discouragement.
 
Scooter2525 said:
Yes and no. Removed the scratch and it looks a lot better. Went on to use the Meg's DA correction system on the rest of the car. Worked great on the majority of the etched water spots. Then proceeded to work on the '10 Pilot before taking it on a road trip. Finished most of it and dabbled in a little wet sanding. Improved some of the light scratches on it but not all. While on the road trip, brought some QD to remove bugs. The car sat afterwards for 8 days and I didn't want them to damage the CC. Got back from Hawaii and the car needed to be washed. Took it to a touch less car wash. A day after, noticed in the sun a number of swirls where I haven't detailed and where I did just 2 weeks before. Got back home and have been very discouraged about the whole thing. So a brand new GG DA machine sits unused and I'm avoiding detailing due to discouragement.
Click to expand...

It sucks to hear that because I was/am kind of in the same boat. After detailing a couple of black vehicles for family members and spending about 6-8 hours on each of them over the weekend I was able to inspect them in full sun and saw a fair amount of swirls etc... After Ultimata compund, polish, then liquid wax I was very discouraged with what I saw. From a short distance the job looked amazing so I orginally gave myself a pat on the back and was swelling with pride. Then I was doing something and noticed the swirls all over both cars and was devastated. Long story short after looking into different things I believe the issue was not with my technique but simply the towels I used during all the processes. Being new to detailing and having a very limited supply of what I would call decent MF towels and alot of crappy MF towels from Wal-Mart, I can now see the mistakes I made and the results of those mistakes. I learned that day that not all MF's are created the same and you usually get what you pay for when it comes to towels. Also, reading the fine print that says "Remove the tag before use" is a big help too.

Anyways, good luck with your future detailing because i know before long you'll be ready to get with it.
 
As far as polish wipe towels these will not break the bank. Meguiars Supreme Shine Microfiber Towels 3 Pack
They work good for polish removal without scratching. Always keep your towels clean. A thicker nap towel is better for QD use. always make sure you are not "dry" wiping.

Bobby also posted some good links on polishing. If your still seeing defects you may be working too big of an area or not working the polish enough. Just a door can easily be 4 sections. You may be also getting enough "fill" to hide some defects till after a few washes. Car Pro Eraser is great to check your work after compounding. Also keeping pads clean is critical during polishing. Clean with a brush or air after every section.

Good lighting and sun checks also play an important role.


When your ready to give it another shot don't hesitate to ask questions on process. There are plenty here capable enough to help you trouble shoot. If get the time try some of the tips on a panel and check in with what you are seeing.

Don't get too discouraged. It took me a little trial and error to learn the DA after being Rotary. Nearly all the work I post was done with a DA. It can be done even, major correction with just a Griot's or PCXP(one of my weapons of choice).
 
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