Disasterous black honda!! Help!!

Ok, so I told my friend I would detail hi s98 honda civic. It is met. Black with cloth. The interior alone took 2hrs. The paint is a different story. I washed with mothers gold, adams clay and lubicrant smooth as glass!...... Until now everything is runnig smoothy....... Now I use SS2.5 with a polishing pad, not enough cut so I went with a meg. red cutting pad. All of these I used a PC 7424 on speed 5. The SSR2.5 took away alot of the swirls, this car is on the verge of needing a re-paint!...... There was heavy swirls, oxidation, stains etc... The SSR2.5 I used on the red pad began to throw red flakes everywhere! There was more dust from the pad than the product. I worked 2.5 in the paint for about 30sec each section then wiped off when there was virtually none left.......
After the whole car was done I take out some Klasse, I used a white polishing pad and began to work into paint @speed 3. The product wasn't going anywhere! It was sticking and not applying very easily. I used EX-P on the other side of the hood to see if the results were better but they were not, just sticking and leaving a hazey residue. I used Klasse for there was nothing else I could find to take out hazing and marks left by SSR2.5 The whole process was a disaster. The car sure does look better but not eqaul to the amount of time put in. The paint doesn't shine or look glossy but looks clean and feels smooth, let me remind you this was the worst car I have detailed. 4pm to 10pm, just got home!!!

What is the problem? Is there too mush 2.5 left on the surface after buffing? I used all clean microfiber towels, and did not wet the surface at all during the polishing. I used a halogen light stand to eluminate the imperfections. The only thing I can think of is that the klasse was two years old and sat in my closet. The surface didnt feel as smooth after 2.5 as it did after I clayed it? What is the problem too much product on the pads, I uses a thin ring for each section, and cleaned the pad after each panel. Is there a cure, I feel so frusterated!!!! I will post pics in the morinig, I am beat, any help would be great!

Andrew
 
Maybe you are not using enough product if it is disappearing after only 30 seconds. I have never had AIO remove any type of swirl/haze from a compound... you might need to step down to ssr1 or 2 then 1.
If there was oxidation maybe the klasse was pulling up dead paint and gumming up? Did you notice this when polishing with the 2.5 also?
 
I'm gonna suggest these problems:

1) You didn't shake the product enough or you have a bad version of Klasse
2) Didn't break down abrasives enough
3) Need more polishing or compounding
4) Paint is beyond repair, meaning its dying very badly
 
AZ Ferrari Man said:
this car is on the verge of needing a re-paint!...... There was heavy swirls, oxidation, stains etc...
Andrew

This is the biggie...if the car is this bad, it WILL cause problems when trying to buff out. Dead, or nearly dead paint is very dry. The micro pores, cracks etc are filled with dust dirt and loose paint. I have seen paint in this condition literally "drink up" polishes and waxes because it was so dried out. Some don't subscribe to the "dry paint/feed the paint theory", but some of the things I've seen makes me believe it has some merit. Perhaps this is a good time to use one of Megs polishes with all the oils/fillers such as the DC #2, or the Pro Line #3, #5 or #7.



AZ Ferrari Man said:
The SSR2.5 I used on the red pad began to throw red flakes everywhere! There was more dust from the pad than the product. I worked 2.5 in the paint for about 30sec each section then wiped off when there was virtually none left......
.

This sounds like the pad is self-destructing from excessive friction...AKA like scottabi mentioned, you're not using enough product. Actually, using the products sparingly could be making it worse. If the paint is really soaking the polishes up, then it's almost like buffing with a dry pad.

Maybe you can help this paint, maybe not. Maybe Meguiars with all it's oils will help, maybe not. All you can do is give it your best shot, and be satisfied knowing you did your best (I suppose it would be good to practice what you preach here, because I always take poor results personally, even if the car started out looking like a chalkboard ;) )
 
First, if paint is in poor condition (thin) the last thing you want to do is use a cutting pad..in deyailing, you always start with the LEAST aggressive method and then work up.
Second, 30 seconds is not polishing, that's spreading!!! ...each panel should be worked at least a few minutes if not longer, all you did was spread the SSR2.5 around you never worked it in and then back out. I would doubt any change could occur for the better.
Third, if you roughed up the surface with the SSR2.5 neither ther AIO nor the EX-P would be able to be spread easily.
 
Pics

Here are the pics, one is of a before/after pic of right rear panel, one is of the door with the swirls, and one is the after door. Tell me what you think!
 
Steve, thankyou, I am going to wash the car again and use Meg. Deep crystal polish and follow with EX-P. The reason I used red cutting pad was that the white polishing pad did nothing so I went higher as stated in original post.
 
Actually Meg`s Deep Crystal Paint Cleaner would be a better choice for starters. Then take note of what Steve has said. The Deep Crystal polish would not work for this situation. It would be ok after you have polished the haze out.
 
From what i see, you will probably need a rotary to repair that paint correctly...multiple passes with a strong swirl remover will make it better, but probably never get rid of the deeper swirls:nono
 
Agree'd you cant really notice some of the deeper swirls that much anyway once you have the majority of the paint perfect. Strong compound followed by some SSR's with PC or Rotary = good stuff.
 
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