Diff pad or diff product?

dmxsoulja3

New member
Hey guys,



I'm using a PC and working on my 07 black Jetta, the paint is pretty beat, it doesn't so much have swirls, but LINES, the previous owner was nice enough to use the spray off car wash brushes atleast in straight lines :( lol Anyways, I have been using white polishing pads and Megs #80 speed glaze and while it does remove MOST of the lines and such on one pass it would appear I could do this a bit faster if I either stepped up my pad to maybe Orange? or maybe picked up some #83? What do you guys recommend? stronger pads first or stronger products? I like the Megs products because I can pretty easily tell when its broken down and don't get alot of dusting, I have the XMT line as well and even the heavy swirl remover doesn't really best the speed glaze and it is hard to tell when I've actually broken it all the way down in some cases. Any help would be appreciated. :buffing:
 
White is a light polishing pad. I wouldnt hesitate to go to orange. Might want to consider something that has a little more working time also, like Optimum.

Ive been very pleased with their polishes, and they are pretty much my go too. Also, always make sure you pad supports your product.
 
dmxsoulja3 said:
.. I have been using white polishing pads and Megs #80 speed glaze and while it does remove MOST of the lines and such on one pass it would appear I could do this a bit faster if I either stepped up my pad to maybe Orange? or maybe picked up some #83? What do you guys recommend? stronger pads first or stronger products? I like the Megs products because I can pretty easily tell when its broken down..



I'm generally in favor of prioritizing the *product* instead of the pad. Trying to make a mild product (e.g., #80) more aggressive by switching to an orange pad isn't the way I'd do it (the only time I might do that is with M205).



The way I see it, most aggressive foam pads are good for correction because they facilitate the good/better/best cutting from the product, not because the pads contribute a lot of cut in-and-of themselves. Like the way a firm, porous pad can hold more product against the paint....that helps but if the product is very gentle it won't make a big difference.



I'd much rather use a properly aggressive product, even with a gentle pad (if you're gonna "mismatch" them, that's the direction I'd go) than try to get mild products to do correction they're just not designed for. So I'd choose the right product for the job, and then decide which pad will best match up with it.



White polishing pads are a good match for #80. They let it do what it's capable of, and are porous enough (say, compared to finishing pads) to work well with the #80's TSOs and to accomodate some cut-off paint and broken-down product without having to stop and clean the pad out after every small section.



To get just a bit faster correction with #80, you might try a LC tangerine or *Griot's* orange pad (different from other orange ones); those don't turn #80 into a compound or anything like that, but they do give just a bit more correction before the #80 starts to break down.



Since #80 finishes out ready-to-wax (almost all the time), I'd always use it with a pad that doesn't instill any micromarring. If you're gonna deal with micromarring anyhow, I'd rather get more correction in exchange for my trouble.



All that said...I find the M105/M205 twins very user-friendly for hard clear. In part because there's no "abrasive breakdown" to worry about (because they don't break down, they just dry out). You could use M105 for those deep "lines" and then finish out with M80 if you only want to buy one new product.
 
I was going to suggest M105 as well. Your post summed up everything I was going to say, great post Accumulator!
 
Back
Top