DI or RO water set-up question

lewisautodetail

lewisautodetail

Supreme Ominpotent Master
Does anyone here use either DI or RO water? If so, where did you go to get set up?
I have seen the benefits and am looking at this as a valuable investment and would appreciate any suggestions.

Thanks!
 
Check with your local water conditioning stores first. I started out with DI tanks but quickly saw that this method was going to be way too expensive. I was only getting about 450 gal. before they needed recharged ($110 ea. with shipping)!! So I purchased an R/O system and had it installed in my basement along with a 125 gal. water tank. The R/O systems are going to be alot more expensive initially, but are much cheaper in the long run than DI tanks. With either system, you'll receive a much higher quality wash and save time by not having to dry the vehicle.
 
Im not completely sure but i believe you can rent DI tanks through US Filter for around $40 per month, plus recharges. Might be something to look into.
 
silverline, regarding your RO set-up...

O Did you do the initial setup or was it dealer installed?
O How long has your system been in service?
O What have you seen as far ongoing maintenance costs?
O What was the projected lifespan of the RO membrane(s)?
O What, if anything, was done to reclaim the "rejected" water? From everything I've read about RO it is an extremely resource (water) wasteful method of filtration.
 
jatique said:
I'm sorry but i'm new to the game what is DI and RO water?
Click to expand...

DI = De-ionized
RO = Reverse Osmosis

Two methods of removing disolved solids from water (to eliminate water spots).
 
O Did you do the initial setup or was it dealer installed?
The dealer installed everything except the 100 gal. water tank I keep in my basement to house the treated water as well as the RO system. They even installed a line and pump system and hooked up a faucet in my garage so I could fill my tank in my trailer.

O How long has your system been in service?
Only about 4 months, I was using DI tanks from them for about 2 months prior to switching to the RO system

O What have you seen as far ongoing maintenance costs?
Very little maintenance and costs with this system. The initial cost of the system is very expensive...but is a very economical solution for the long run as opposed to DI tanks that will need recharged forever.

O What was the projected lifespan of the RO membrane(s)?
I know there are 2 filters I have to replace about once a year. Can't remember which ones they said (filter or membrane), so can't answer this question with certainty.

O What, if anything, was done to reclaim the "rejected" water? From everything I've read about RO it is an extremely resource (water) wasteful method of filtration
I'm not quite sure what you're refering to. There is no waste water with this system. Besides changing out those couple filters or membranes and adding salt to the softener, there is no other maintenance or waste products associated with it.
 
Silerline, thanks for the info I will be interested to hear your ongoing experiences with your RO system.

There is no waste water with this system. Besides changing out those couple filters or membranes and adding salt to the softener, there is no other maintenance or waste products associated with it.
Click to expand...

Hmmm... unless you have a very unique installation you have either been misled by your dealer or you missed that part of the RO equation. I have over the years investigated water filtration methods for in-home use. My findings consistently have shown RO systems are extremely wasteful, typically recovering only 5-15% of the water entering the system. One estimation was that to deliver 5 gallons of RO water the system will reject between 40 and 90 gallons of water down your drain. Factor that by your 100 gallon tank. I would be interested in what your dealer would say about that.
 
Mr. Clean,

Thanks for the heads up. I was unaware of the water that is rejected with these systems. I'll have to call the company tomorrow to get the scoop. I'll keep you informed.
 


I have a three tank DI system I have, rent for $36.00 a month from a water conditionong company here in San Antonio.

MrClean is right, I inquired about RO system and they told me that for every 5 gallons of RO water made, it wasted 90 gallons of water
 
Bump.
Do more have anything to say about DI vs. RO? I'm interested in a DI system. How many gallons per day are your tanks?
 
I have been using RO and DI water for years now..not for washing cars but to use in aquariums...saltwater reef tanks...but I do know about the systems ..RO units have a product water and a waste water...the waste water is water that is used to carry out minerals...as said..10% product water ..90% waste water..or flush water...this waste water is used to flush the membrane to keep from mineral build up...so to make 100 gallons of product water you my use up to 900-1000 gallons of water..also water temp makes a difference the membrane likes water around 50-60 degrees to work effectively...colder water will create more waste water less product water ratio....if you pay for water ..your bill will go up.....also membranes are rated for GPD..so a 100GPD membrane with ideal conditions will give you 100 gallons per day....


Now DI systems are nice...you have resins that are charged...the home systems used mixed bed resins..which is 2 resins combined..anion and cation...and use either salt or potassium to recharge the resins...

the systems I have are two tanks with a resin in each tank..I have a anion tank...and a cation tank....I recharge my tanks myself...with acids...like lye...and muriatic acid...a little tricky but makes pure water..meaning no TDS (total dissolved solids) or 0 conductivity...it is pure water...it is not recommended to drink it as it has nothing in it...with a DI system you get what you put in..100 gallons in..100 out..no waste...

now I took a course on water purification at U Mass

nothing lasts forever...the membranes have a life span measured in gallons like 2000 gallons..then you replace them...can be costly...mine cost about 70 dollars for 2 years....the DI resins can last longer about 5-7 years doing recharges yourself...

most of the home water softeners which is sort of a DI system using resins..do not produce pure water...cause you drink it..it will bring it down to soft water with less minerals...

you need a meter to test your water to know when resins or membrane are getting exhausted...either a TDS meter or a conductivity meter....both less than 50-60 dollars...

the hose end softener like the CRT spotless uses mixed resins..and you recharge them using solar salt...or water softener salt...let then soak over night and rinse...use and then recharge when needed..I do not know what the water quality is on them..but it must be suitable for washing cars..as it says no spots....

I reconstitute my water using my sea salts and getting my specific gravity..so the corals and fish are not in pure water...I just get all the contaminants out.

hope this helps
AL
 
Wow, thanx for the response AL.
I'm mostly thinking of our impecabbly hard water. Water spots etch in quickly, and we spend a lot of time drying cars.
I'm not sure RO would work, we simply don't have drainage for disposing of 500 gallons a day to use 50.
DI sounds good. Are there other water softening systems that could work? The CRT Spotless, does that just go on the end of a hose?
 
I believe the CRT system is a inline system....meaning you you have a in hose and a out hose...I also think it works on reduced water pressure on the outlet side...slow flow makes better water..longer contact with the resins...

Brendon..I use to soften water with peat also..made nice soft water..I think most of the peat comes from your neck of the woods...maybe New Brunswick...but I do not know how it would work on cars...lol...it was a tea color....but made nice water...I had Amazonia tanks for that water...

there was also a study using rare earth magnets to reduce mineral content....it actually did something to the ions in the water...I never followed the progress..just the initial research on it....never heard more on it..so maybe it was a flop


AL
 
I put an RO system in my basement, and every couple days I'll fill up a gallon jug and pour it into a 4 gallon pump-up sprayer. I use this water as a final rinse when I wash the truck. It generally takes about 3 gallons.

I put what's called a "permeate pump" on my RO system. I kind of understand what it does, but not enough to really explain in-depth.
In short, it helps the pressure tank fill faster and work more efficiently, and it greatly reduces the amount of waste water generated. Ask people who sell RO systems and they can explain why. It cost an additional $80.00, uses no electricity of any kind (works off line pressure), and my system works much better than my next door neighbors who does not have this additional option.

I have one of the best water softening systems available, and run all the water through a 5 micron filter, and I still get severe water spotting if I don't flush with the RO water. There are still disolved solids in soft water, it's just different (and not as severe) solids than in non-softened water.
 
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