DG / depth on paint

F

Fallz

New member
Give me some advice on this. I like the DG line a lot. great durability and really have not used a product of theirs I didn't like. BUT!!!! I can get it to shine like hell , but its missing something , its got the wettness , shine , but i just cant get the depth , deep dark look.



I have achieved this when there was absolutely nothing on it except AW multiple coats . this last time I did it I did the 601/105 x2 thing and personally thought it took quite a bit away from the look.



What do you think about doing a 105/111 or a 101/105 & top with 111 a few coat for maint. along with AW.



This is on my 06 4Runner , metallic gray , so paint is in great condition with the exception of brush battle scars from off roading. The paint has great metallic flake in it a pretty in the sun.



(not that it has anything to do with my topic , but I am waiting on some Megs #21 to see if I can get the look/depth/shine/durability I want from that)
 
I have to say when I was using AW as an LSP alone I liked the look a lot better. 105 doesn't seem to have the same pop, but, it's so durable and it stays slick for so long it's a decent trade off for me, especially at this time of year.
 
violentveedub said:
I have to say when I was using AW as an LSP alone I liked the look a lot better. 105 doesn't seem to have the same pop, but, it's so durable and it stays slick for so long it's a decent trade off for me, especially at this time of year.
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My experience is the same.
 
AW as a stand alone? Sometimes I think AW gets a little too much credit........The Danase Wet Glaze mixed in with 105 is pretty darn sweet. i kind of found out on accident with a black bimmer that wasnt quite coming "back to life" the way i had hoped for. I did a side by side with 105 and Wet Glaze, and the WG blew it right out the door, of course the WG offer very little protection, so I added about 1 oz WG to 3 oz of 105, and it was perfect.....I was actually kind of stunned.....
 
a.k.a. Patrick said:
AW as a stand alone? Sometimes I think AW gets a little too much credit........
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How so, friend? Opti-seal is the same type of product, as is AJ... Its good for at least a month, if not 2, and you can apply so easy...



So you actually mixed the glaze with the 105 before applying it to the car?
 
a.k.a. Patrick said:
AW as a stand alone? Sometimes I think AW gets a little too much credit........The Danase Wet Glaze mixed in with 105 is pretty darn sweet. i kind of found out on accident with a black bimmer that wasnt quite coming "back to life" the way i had hoped for. I did a side by side with 105 and Wet Glaze, and the WG blew it right out the door, of course the WG offer very little protection, so I added about 1 oz WG to 3 oz of 105, and it was perfect.....I was actually kind of stunned.....
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Now you tell me, I just ordered from Bob...lol



Thanks for the tip!
 
a.k.a. Patrick said:
so I added about 1 oz WG to 3 oz of 105, and it was perfect.....I was actually kind of stunned.....
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Ah so this is what you were referring to Pat, sweet! I haven't bought any 105 yet since I have plenty of other stuff. However this concoction may be my answer to a one step product with good durability?

Currently I am using PolySeal which I like but the durability on some of the cars doesn't seem to be that good. It also seems to lose its luster big time after the first wash. :confused: :nixweiss



Fallguy - have fun playing with the different combinations because in the end it is your eye that see's what *you* like.



I do agree that Danase Wet Glaze is a great product and my fiance' proved this. She told me "your car still looks wet" when I was finished with it :2thumbs:

The combo was DWG topped with AW.
 
violentveedub said:
How so, friend? Opti-seal is the same type of product, as is AJ... Its good for at least a month, if not 2, and you can apply so easy...



So you actually mixed the glaze with the 105 before applying it to the car?
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Violent, when I think of "stand alone", im thinking of a "no fear" type of protectant. I just dont have a real sense of security with AW as a stand alone. And ive never really witnessed any long term (2-3 weeks in a So Cal Summer) slickness retention with it. AW is a Nuba/Poly blend, and we all know Nubas just dont stand up to the elements for very long, so this will leave you a light synthetic layer of protection after just a week or two of exposure to the elements. AW is a excellent product, coming in at under $10.00 a bottle, when used under the right circumstances. Its just nowhere near say what DG 111/105 or FS UPP, Glanz, 845 can offer. As for stand alone sprays, 1Z Lackfinish and UPPS are the only sprays that have really stepped up to the plate for me. Those, IMO are stand alones. I still havent figured out exactly what 845 or 476 is made of though, lol. Obviously if 951 works for you as a stand alone, then continue its use as one. Im not here to dissuae you of its use thats for sure.

As for the Wet Glaze/105 combo, I was looking for a little less dusting with the 105. I also assumed that if Im getting a little dust on the black Bimmer, I might be getting a little filling. Yet the black wasnt popping for me. It just didnt have that deep wet, jet black look. So I tried a little WG that Bob sent me, and I was like "damn!", there it is! Now the dilemma. 105, or WG first?

Why not both at once?! The rest is history........
 
I agree about AW not being a stand alone. I have also found that the 601/105/AW

treatment seems to mute metalic paint ( tried on several metalics). That pop is also missing although the durability is pretty good. JMO you can't take $10 stuff and expect $20- $30 results.
 
The product that always seems to get a bum rap for being "old technology" or whatever is DG 111, well I can say that stuff rocks! Im no expert in boutique waxes or anything but I love the shine 111 gives me. Definetly more gloss than 105. I use it on my wheels as well topped with AW (they are polished aluminum Ford 99 Cobra mustang wheels) and they are constantly complimented. This guy asked me once if I had lights in my wheels! And this was at night under a street light. My usual combo is 105 first for a little cleaning ability and durability, then 2 coats of 111 because its the shiznit, and topped with AW.
 
I/m trying the 601/105/111 combo on my hood as we speak. According to DG ( Jerry ) he has always told me to top with 111 , not 105 . He said 105 is the latest polish they have out but to top with 111.



I guess the 111 is a pure sealant compared to the others and thats why its recommended to do it that way. It tells nothing about cleaning properties on my bottle. Who knows what right or wrong I guess what works for you is the best.



I've not been a 601 fan so if this does not come out the way I want it then I will do the 101 ( which is like an AIO I think , the follow it with 105 & 111).



I agreed with someone making a comment about how can you expect something to perform like a boutique product that cost twice as much , but after thinking about it although these "boutique" products can charge what they want and if someone has decent results people buy right into it. IMO many of them are waaaaaayyyy over priced & hyped for what they are . This stuff has pretty much impressed me more than most boutique stuff I've tried , my others are Megs and FK.



I'm just trying to get a little more depth from my DG.



Thanks 99Stang & Patrick for the advice.
 
I just put on a second coat of 105 today on my white 4Runner. The look definitely looks better with the second coat. I can't wait to top it with AW.
 
dogma said:
JMO you can't take $10 stuff and expect $20- $30 results.
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I just don't see the logic here. Look at the actual cost of the ingredients going into these products. Must a great product really cost more than $10/bottle? If you examine what typically differentiates the cheaper products from more expensive ones it is typically marketing (taking items produced by the same large chemical manufacturer and giving them boutique prestige). JMO.
 
Cleaning Fool said:
Again, one of the knocks of synthetic sealants is lack of depth.
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IMO, depth is attained during the prep stage........The synthetic just locks it in and adds a little reflective qualities...

If you examine what typically differentiates the cheaper products from more expensive ones it is typically marketing.
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If you look at some OTC products like Prestone, Mothers, Eage one, all are marketed very well. Its just been proven that some of these $10.00 a bottle sealants, just dont live up to the marketing as some of the $20.00 a bottle i.e. UPP, Glanz, Optimum, etc products. I feel theres a lot more into the manufacturing and analysis with "some" boutique products.
 
felthove said:
I just don't see the logic here. Look at the actual cost of the ingredients going into these products. Must a great product really cost more than $10/bottle? If you examine what typically differentiates the cheaper products from more expensive ones it is typically marketing (taking items produced by the same large chemical manufacturer and giving them boutique prestige). JMO.
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My point is and this is JMO I will use what gives me the results I am looking for regardless of cost. I can tell you right off for me there is a huge difference between AW and Z8 because my car is metalic multiple uses of AW mute the metalic not so with Z8 or for that matter CS and OS. I can also tell the difference in looks between DG105 and ZAIO or Z5 pro. I will say that the durability og DG products are quite good.



If all the ingredients were the exact same the results would be the exact same.



The difference in looks is what I am paying for. I will not use something just because its cheaper. Honestly I have the whole DG line if I liked it better than what I use now I would use it.
 
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