DeWalt vs. PC...opinions?

A

Anosmiac

New member
I just purchased a detailing kit that came with a DeWalt buffer. I have used these types of buffers on fiberglass, detailing boats. However, I have never attempted a car before. What are the benefits/negatives of this kind of machine vs. the Porter Cable machine?
 
Is it a dewalt rotary buffer? If so you just made a great purchase. I use nothing but a dewalt rotary on cars. I think you'll find it much easier and more effective than a PC.
 
It is a DeWalt rotary. Based on their reputation for construction power tools, I know the quality is good. What are your thoughts on it's function for a an average detailer? Any pointers I should know about vs. a PC machine?
 
A rotary is significantly more powerful compared for a PC. In the right hands, it will achieve a higher level of correction in a smaller amount of time. Thorough practice is recommended :)
 
I'll share with you my story to see if it helps any. I started with the PC DA, great machine can't screw up a paint job, excellent for playing with all the different polishes and waxes I was buying & trying. After about a year I got the itch to kick it up a notch and try my hand with a rotary, bought the DeWalt and went to town though scared out of my wits having read some of the rotary horror stories on this BB.



Turns out it wasn't so bad after all, just keep the machine moving, as it was recommended to me by a local detailer, and keep it away from parts that can be ripped/yanked off. Splatter was bad until I attended a "how to" seminar at Meguiar's HQ then I learned how to scoop up the dollop of product with the rotary with minimal splatter.



Having used both machines here is what I have found (a) the rotary (once you learn to use it) is fast, makes fast work of polishing glazing ect ect you car (b) rotary can get heavy on you if you tire easily, even more so when doing the side panels (c) a llittle more skill involved with using the rotary but with time & practice can be mastered (d) once you get you car's paint in the perfect condition, swirl free with just the right amount of "wet look" the rotary may be too much machine, if you're careful with everything else a DA is all you need to maintain your work.



Now for the DA (a) it's light weight (b) worry free use, tough to ruin paint (c) in worse case swirl scenarious you maybe going over a panel more than once or using a number of different product of varying abrasive levels to eliminate swirls (d) excellent machine for maintaining you paint, a quick polish application then wax - DA works just great.



Well, that's been my experience with the 2. Now-a-days i break out the rotary once every 6 months and zap away all the swirls but in between I am mostly using the DA for my wax applications and polish/glaze apps.



To adhere to the full disclosure rule LOL I am not a professional detailer and only work on my own two cars. If you're doing this for a living then you'll need another's opinion.







Armand
 
sonyexec, very well put. The key to a rotary is to keep it moving and, if you've never used it before, tape up any questionable areas (curves, edges, rubber, plastic, and anything else that seems "damagable").



Anosmiac: are you familiar with a PC or is the Dewalt the first "machine" you've ever had? If you have used the pc before, just keep the same technique, but move 5x faster and don't put any pressure. Think of it as applying wax with a pc, no pressure and fast movement.



If you've never used a machine and this is your first, consider practicing on a scrap piece of metal. Its not impossible to learn on a rotary first, but it is less forgiving than a pc.



In either case, have fun. Don't get discouraged.
 
Thanks for all of the updates guys! I just got my DeWalt yesterday, and I'm trying to find the time to fire it up. I've never used the DeWalt, but my experience has been with another rotary machine...not nearly this powerful though. My wife has a 2002 VW Jetta that needs some TLC. It's the deep blue in color....lots of light to medium scratches and some oxydation. What are your recommendations on pad type, as well as the different compounds/waxes I should consider?



This is new to me, and although I would say I understand the basics of waxing/buffing, I would much rather get the detailed information from you guys who have done it, and done it well.
 
Since you're just beginning, I'd do some reading and be awfully careful on the paint. First, waxes aren't used for paint correction, but rather for protection and sealing in the looks. You probably should get a set of either Lake Country or Edge pads and get a set of polishes that suits your needs. On the top of my head: Poorboys, Menzerna, Optimum, Meguiars, etc.
 
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