Deep Gloss Teaser: Dirty Little 17 Year Old German

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YoSteve

New member
Okay I've gone a little off track in my recent thoughts of the "correct" way to use the whole Klasse system. As I think aloud again :), let's put our brainstorming caps on again and see if we can come up with something more for the prewax paint prep steps.



Does anyone wash after the clay step? Does clay mess up the swirl steps in detailing.



I'm considering using SMR for dark cars on a lighter car (or vice versa for dark cars). Anyone think that it will actually darken (or lighten) the finish (remember clearcoat is clear and even if I had a dark car, I don't want dark specs in the clear coat).

Even considering that I will PPCL my finish after wards, which is supposedly supposed to free the car of all residue. My theory is that since I do not want any SMR residue on my car period, if I can still see it (as in the dark formula, I will be better apt to remove it)



Next, does PPCL leave a residue? Maybe we should wash our cars after Claying, SMR, and PPCL.



And finally maybe it's in these preparation stages that Klasse has problems adhereing to the finish. The problem is which car wash cleans the sqeakiest without leaving it's own residue so that Klasse has a good clean substrate to adhere too.



Maybe people have done all of these already, if so please post, thanks Steve.
 
I located the MSDS for each product and compared ingredients. Here are the excerpts taken from the 39009 SMR for Dark Cars and the 39109 SMR for Light Colored Cars:

Dark SMR #39009:
ISSUED: October 18, 2000
SUPERSEDES: September 29, 2000
DOCUMENT: 06-8456-3

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
1. INGREDIENT C.A.S. NO. PERCENT
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

WATER.......................................................................40.0 - 60.0
DISTILLATES (PETROLEUM), ACID TREATED, LIGHT....10.0 - 20.0
ALUMINUM OXIDE......................................................10.0 - 20.0
HYDROTREATED HEAVY NAPHTHA (PETROLEUM)..........7.0 - 13.9
GLYCERIN....................................................................1.0 - 5.0
WHITE MINERAL OIL (PETROLEUM)..............................1.0 - 5.0


LIGHT SMR:
DOCUMENT: 06-8455-5

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
1. INGREDIENT C.A.S. NO. PERCENT
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

WATER................................... 30.0 - 60.0
DISTILLATES (PETROLEUM), ACID TREATED,
LIGHT................................. 10.0 - 30.0
ALUMINUM OXIDE.......................... 7.0 - 13.0
HYDROTREATED HEAVY NAPHTHA (PETROLEUM).. 5.0 - 10.0
GLYCERIN................................ 1.0 - 5.0
WHITE MINERAL OIL (PETROLEUM)........... 0.5 - 1.5

You will notice that the 39009 has up to 10% more water. I'm not sure of the effect of this. But the big kicker is this: 3M SMR for Dark Colored Cars has up to 7% more aluminum oxide! This means it is much more abrasive than the light colored SMR!

(end of 3m section..)

As far as PPCL goes, yes it does leave a residue. The visible stuff can be removed pretty easily with an MT, but there will no doubt be stuff left behind. I was wondering about this myself, because we always stress with AIO to use thin coats, use thin coats!

I washed my car after claying because I had allowed the QD to dry on the car instead of buffing it off, so it was necessary for me. But if you use a <strong class='bbc'>non-carnauba[/b] QD, your car will be left cleaner after claying than had you just QDd. I'd wash anyway.

How are you going to clean a residue at least 1/2 as thick as your ultrathin coat of KAIO? This kind of concerns me because I know with my recent (first) Klasse application I applied AIO so thin I could hardly see it on my metallic black car. This made me wonder about what happened to any PPCL residue...PPCL does have some fillers in it, but I doubt that would present a problem with Klasse, since PPCL is tried and true with everything we use here.

HTH, we'll get onto Klasse hazing next,
Justin
 
Pinnacle Paintwork Cleansing Lotion (it's their pre-wax cleaner).



Regarding claying: I've recently tried this little method and found that it works well...



1) Wash vehicle as usual

2) Prior to drying, flood the roof with water

3) Using wash bucket & fresh wash solution, slop some water/soap on roof

4) Start claying

5) Final wash with mitt once more & rinse when done

6) Dry & move on to the hood (repeat for rest of vehicle)



I've tried this on a few vehicles, including my Dark Blue Tahoe and my wife's friend's Mercedes with excellent results. It seems to help move things a long a little more quickly.



Just my .02.
 
when I an entire vehicle I do what GEEKYSTEVE said. Otherwise I clay selected areas then re-QD if that is a term.



Anything with gook in it will leave some residue. Even water will ie mineral deposits. Mt's leave Whatever was on them and possibly lint.



I would always wash and dry prior to applying the first coat in any system of polymers you choose to ensure all the gooky stuff is off and you get all theta techno bonding stuff happening.



Just my 1/2 cent worth!
 
Not sure if I will ever get caught up with write ups. To be honest, the past 6 weeks have been filled with more of the same, no vehicles that really are standouts. BUT, this dirty little German I have pictured below that rolled in yesterday is just a little special?

Wikipedia excerpt:
Porsche 964 Turbo 3.6
Porsche released the 964 Turbo 3.6 in January, 1993, now featuring a turbocharged version of the 3.6 litre M64 engine and producing 360 PS (260 kW; 360 hp) @ 5500 rpm, the 3.6 litre powered Turbo was produced only for model year 1993/1994, with fewer than 1,500 of them produced in total, making it one of the rarest and most sought after Porsches produced since the 959.
Click to expand...


Not sure when/if I will get a chance to do a proper write up on this one so I figured I could at the very least snap a couple pics to share.

IMG_0371.jpg


Ohh, the horror?..
IMG_0318.jpg
 
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