Decent Price wax

I heard good things about Megs#26 as well. I actually got a friend of mine to pick it up last nite for his Z06. I also use menzerna and was wondering if this wax would be better for protection and shine as opposed to carnubas?
 
Great opinions guys thanks. I do have Meguiar's #26. I also was looking into getting the Natty's Blue for like $20. I heard if you use Meguiar's #26, when it's time to polish, it's going to be difficult to polish if you don't strip that wax off is that true?



So in conclusion, Nattys Blue vs Meguairs #26 vs Any other?
 
GS4_Fiend said:
Great opinions guys thanks. I do have Meguiar's #26. I also was looking into getting the Natty's Blue for like $20. I heard if you use Meguiar's #26, when it's time to polish, it's going to be difficult to polish if you don't strip that wax off is that true?



So in conclusion, Nattys Blue vs Meguairs #26 vs Any other?
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Who told you to polish with wax on the car :think:



You should always strip the wax before you polish.
 
I don't always strip the existing LSP, and it seldom causes any problems unless it's very fresh/healthy (in which case I seldom want to polish through it anyhow). The only time I can remember an existing LSP (normal stuff, not dealer-applied silicon crap) causing a problem was with KSG. I've polished through healthy Collinite with no problems.



#26 isn't all that durable a wax so it shouldn't cause problems.



I don't to KSG as I want to add more later. I wouldn't top it with a wax unless you simply *must* alter the look and you're sure the wax will render the difference you desire.



Cheap wax? A can of Meguiar's #16 lasts me about a decade, and I use it often. A can of Collinite 476S should last for years. A bottle of KSG oughta last over a decade easy. Most LSPs are cheap if you use them properly/sparingly (well, exotic boutique stuff excepted).
 
GS4_Fiend said:
What happens when you don't strip the wax?
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Usually the polish just cuts right through it, cleaning it off with no problems.



In rare, extreme cases the polish will have trouble getting through the LSP (mainly only happens with very gentle polishes, hardly ever really works that way) or, more likely, will cause messy gumming on the pad.



If you're really worried about it, just give a quick wipe with IPA or some other solvent or use something made for this (TOL/Hi-Temp makes a good product, mine's labeled "Removes All" but I think they changed the name).
 
Interesting, I always assumed it should be removed because every single detail you see on here, the use wax stripping of some sort before polishing. I assumed the wax would interfere somehow with the polish.



I will still strip an area of wax before I work it, I don't want anything extra on the pad. It's not a big deal for me, just a quick IPA wipedown to be safe.
 
What's your price range? Based on the goodly number of testimonies I have read over the past year and limited personal experience, here are some suggestions for the "best" carnauba waxes and synthetic sealants under $75 (retail):







Carnauba Waxes:



$10-$15: M26 Yellow Tech Wax, Collinite 845, Optimum Car Wax



$15-$20: Natty's Blue, Natty's Red, Clearkote Carnauba Moose Wax, Collinite 476, Harly Wax



$20-$30: Collinite 915



$30-$40: Lusso Oro, P21S



$40-$50: Pinnacle Signature, P21S 100%, Victoria Concours Red



$50-$60: Chemical Guys 50/50, Chemical Guys Pete's '53, Blackfire Midnight Sun, Wet Obsession



$60-$75: Dodo Juices





Synthetic Sealants:



$10-$15: DuraGloss 105, Jeff Werkstatt's Acrylic Jet Trigger, Zaino Z-2 Pro



$15-$20: NXT, Mother's Relections, Finish Kare Hi Temp Synthetic Paste Wax (1000p), 1Z Glanz Wax, Jeff Werkstatt's Acrylic Jet, Zaino Z-5 Pro



$20-$30: Blackfire Wet Diamond, Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze, Opti-Seal, M21 Synthetic Sealant, Ultima Paint Guard Plus



$30-$40: Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant, Menzerna FMJ, Chemical Guys Jet Seal, Four Star Ultimate Paint Protection



$40-$50: ?



$50-$60: ?



$60-$75: ?



The above products can often be found on sale at various websites (sometimes at significant reductions). Also remember that "more expensive" does not always mean "better." Shipping costs must also be taken into consideration.



(What have I left out that should be included in the above list?)
 
I don't get the fascination with topping sealants. Just use what looks best to you. If you have to apply it more often, so be it. Don't make this more complicated than it has to be. Wash, clay, polish, seal.
 
Darkstar752 said:
Interesting, I always assumed it should be removed because every single detail you see on here, the use wax stripping of some sort before polishing. I assumed the wax would interfere somehow with the polish.



I will still strip an area of wax before I work it, I don't want anything extra on the pad. It's not a big deal for me, just a quick IPA wipedown to be safe.
Click to expand...

I agree, although not necessary to strip before polishing. It doesn't take a few minutes to do an IPA/Prep Sol wipe down before polishing. Don't like LSP mixed in with my polish.
 
The reason why I asked is because I didn't have problems when I polished my vehicle's paint even when it have a coat of NXT for like 2 weeks. But of course, I did washed it at a self serve car wash. Maybe there soap did removed some of the LSP on my paint who knows. Thanks for your considerations for those that tried to help.
 
Darkstar752 said:
Interesting, I always assumed it should be removed because every single detail you see on here, the use wax stripping of some sort before polishing. I assumed the wax would interfere somehow with the polish.
Click to expand...



Why should wax interfere with the polish? The polish is going to have solvents, lubricants, and emulsifiers to keep the abrasives in suspension.



Also think about the mass of the layer of car wax on a panel vs the mass of polishing chemicals being applied. Probably the wax weights a few hundred miligrams across an entire panel.
 
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