Damn You,Damn you All To Hell !!!

NozeBleedSpeed

NozeBleedSpeed

Right Wing Conservative
Took the wife to Lowe's today to pick up a new toilet seat and a few items. I wondered into the tool section as any red blooded American male would. Yada,yada,yada...Less than 3 minutes later,Im walking out of the tool section with a PC 7336.
Thanks for the endless brainwashing and eventual induction into search for the ultimate shine.Thanks alot guys.......


Heres the question.(Bear with me)
I gave my son my 94 Ranger,2.3, 5 speed. He shares my sick disease for cars,so I "tweaked" the truck a bit for him.I converted it to 5.0 with a 4R70 tranny,9" rear and drop. During this process I managed to scratch,not swirl,every panel on the already neglected factory Oxford white paint.I mean literally,every panel!I will need a very aggressive method here,guys.
Please advise on pads and product to use with the PC. I will need to remove quite a bit of paint since many scratches are pretty deep.The only products I have are for light swirl removal.
 
NozeBleed,

Hope you didn't buy that 7336 with the intent of removing any, and all scratches. Some scratches can't be removed with a rotary buffer.......... never mind an orbital. You might want to touch up the scratches, let the paint cure for a few weeks, and then try and come back and try and blend the touch-ups with the orbital.

Just a thought.
 
How deep??
Can you get a picture....??
There are some threads on touch up -scratches if your interested..
jeff
 
Nah Boss.I know.... Im just trying to minimize the damage thats there.I realize that a DA cant do what a rotary,in the right hands,can.

Jeff,no pics. I have several that are certainly bad.More than just fingernail deep,yet not down to primer.

I bought the truck used originally.It already had a few scratches and I removed the plastic bed liner that wrapped over the bed rails and scratched it all along the outside of the rails. I feel I can remove the majority of the problems,not all.Im sure I will need to get nasty on it to reduce much of this visible damage.Its bad enough that anything I do can only be an improvement.I think I will need to start with a wool pad and a compound.Im sure you guys know the best product to start out with.
Trust me,I take full responsibilty for using your advice.
 
With your moderate to heavy involvement with the big toys maybe you know a body man somewhere that you can ask about the feasability of polishing out the mars in the finish.....or just get some compound and go to it!! Try Poorboys SSR 2 and go to 3 if 2 doesn't cut it. It's bound to be better. Use a cutting pad, then a polish pad. Use a polish after, like Poorboys Pro Polish and then top it w/ a sealer and/or a carnuba. EX has carnuba so you save a step. What the hey.....just go for it. Nuttin to lose?
 
Jim,have you ever had to use the PB SSR3 or SSR2? Are they pretty easy to work with? Etc. Etc. Any recommendations in the Megs or 3M lines?
Agreed, nuttin to lose here.
 
With the sounds of it, SSR2 wont do much but make it look a little less noticable. Go right to the SSR3. Check out the pads from Griots Garage.. get the Orange pad. Trust me you will not be sorry. Work the SSR3 in real good then drop it to either 2 or 1... you could also go from SSR3 down to Pro Polish to make it look great. The scratches may not be gone, but they wont show as much.

Good luck

Cujo
 
Hes right, Damn you all!!!!!!!
Where else can you get FREE advice from people 24/7 and Damn if I find some of the best products and support Ive ever seen in my detailing history

OH DAMN I LOVE DC
Damn
Damn
Damn
Damn
Damn
Damn



:mohawk
 
I think I would go with meg's dacp or 3M fine cut with a cutting pad. followed by speed glaze with a finishing pad, then a topper of your choice.

I have used the SSR 2(earlier today actually) and it is very easy to work with. I think the SSR 3 may be of some interest for you as well, I think it is a tad more aggressive than dacp. FWIW, I have also had good luck removing oxidation using meg's medallion paint cleaner.
 
Cujo,you prefer Griots Orange pad over a wool for heavy cutting? Is it the same as the CMA orange?

I concur Phil. The guys on this site make it absolutely great!
 
Hey Nozebleed, If you already have the time and money $$$$ into this truck converting it over, whats another 600.00 for a ok paint job? Thats what my dealers pay, no major body work, base clear , for that size vehicle. How hard was the engine swap?
 
Next year Im doing paint with graphics and tubbing it. I just cant afford what I want to do right now. Im just trying to straighten it up until then.Thats why Im not too worried about getting really aggressive with it.It will get repainted eventually.

The conversion was a Mutha! This was my first attempt a shoehorning a V-8 into a compact. Tons of fabrication I hadnt planned on. DO NOT attempt this as a hobby project. In still bleeding months later.
 
Scratches

If those scratches are deep as you say, the only way to effecively remove them is by wetsanding with 1500 followed by 2000 on a block with plenty of lube!

Once done, then compound the sanded areas, follow with a polish then glaze, such as 3M PIII-MG at the end with a polish pad.

The previous compounding will requre a cutting pad (yellow) and the correct compound to remove sanding marks.

If you want to just stay with compounds for starters, I'd go with 3M or Megs line of cut compounds followed by polishes, then finally glaze. You may be able to remove some or all if they are not too deep. If you can feel them via a fingernail, you will have to touch those areas up, sand to level it, then polish the areas to match.

A rotary will be needed as a PC cannot generate the heat needed to remove heavy scratches. If you've never operated a rotary, I'd advise you seek a bodyshop to wetsand and polish this out for you, then you can return back with a PC and finish polishing/glazing. Sure you can try the PC to remove deep marks, but I use the correct tools for the job. PC's are great for maintenance, not for heavy paint defect correction without more work.

I assume this is a single-stage paint (no clearcoat), so repairs to the finish is not as hard. Touch-up the areas that are very deep first.

I'd really get with a bodyshop on this since they have all the tools and materials onhand and can do it for less aggravation!

Regards,
Deanski
 
I would just do SSR3 and tackle the paint and get the non scratched parts perfect and get the car nice and new looking detail the wheel wells,engine bay, Interior. Etc and not worry about the deep stuff so much or just toach it up and wet sand.
 
Thank you Deanski,and everyone else. This is a good opportunity to learn a little more about paint and cosmetic repair.Ive always limited myself to the wrench side,for the most part.
You guys are invaluable.
I think Ill start with a whole pad kit and try some different compounds to see how much I can correct on my own.Then Ill probably take it to a body shop to get a little pro help with the worst of the remainder.
I sure appreciate everyones input.
 
Fr0zen,would you start with the orange pad or wool,with that SSR3? Im leaning toward your approach to see how bad the remaining is.
 
Hmm I would probley go with the Orange First and use the Wool as a last resort. Im not to fimilar with the Griots Pads CMA has a nice PC Pad kit with cutting,polishing,and finishing pad. I would just go thru the Whole SSR Line up and finish off with EX and not worry to much about the bigger deeper stuff and just get th rest of the car swirl free and shiney.
 
Well,I just ordered the pad kit and several more products from CMA.I also ordered some compounds and polishes from Premium Auto Care. All of that combined with PC I bought today,I was half way to a cheap paint job....
Oh well.Now I have stuff for lots of other cars.Im going to have to start doing this professionally just to get my money back.
:lol
 
If you go too agressive on an older car with bad paint, you aren't going to have any paint left when you get done. I have an old 89 Mazda I use for errands and when I hit it with some 3M Swirl Remover for dark cars it looks 100 times better than it did before, so I let the scratches and flaws go. I think that on an older car, if you use a product like DACP with the cutting pad and then a good filler product to conceal flaws the car will look great and you'll be saving a lot of paint as compared to heavy cut stuff. I'm not saying that that's what you should do, but it's an alternative to the paint-removing methods for improving the finish.
 
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