Cyclo Polishing: M105 and surbuf pads.

Mike777G

New member
I have been meaning to try this for a while after hearing that it was a great combo from Barry Theal and Accumulator. So here is some of the detail on a beautiful G35 coupe.

The car had bad swirling and some deeper scratches. There were also holograms courtesy of a previous detailer. Also the hood and the lower panels had a large amount of rock chips. I believe these will be filled next week.





What a discovered from the detail:



  • The surbuf pads worked great much better than the cyclo wool pads.
  • The combo was still not powerful enough to remove all defects, the deeper scratches were still very stubborn.
  • On most parts of the vehicle I polished twice both times with m105 and surbuf pads, I tried to refine the paint more with malco medium cut and yellow pads but this didn't seem to make much difference.
  • Does anybody know how I could boost the cutting power even further?
  • I seemed to use allot of m105 maybe someone can fill me in on a more conservative method of using the product?
  • One major issue I had with the combo is the 4" pads rubbed into each other allot which caused them to fall apart. They threw pieces everywhere especially when they were damp. I don't even know if the pads are usable anymore after the detail.

Anyway here are some pictures.

When it got to me.

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Vehicle was foamed three times with CG maxi suds with some degreaser to strip the wax and aid in the removal of contaminants. Vehicle was also clayed.

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Some shots under the halogens

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After

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Before

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After

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Right side unpolished left side polished

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The pads were just shredded afterwards. Note pads were washed and dried numerous times during the detail.

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Everything was sealed with CG 50/50 -worked great.

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All done except wheels were still unfinished.

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More after shots hopefully on the way, I did not have allot of time for them today.



I will also be doing a full detail with this combo on a black truck that should produce clearer results and give everyone a better idea of how the combo works.



Cheers
 
I recently tried the Surbufs a la KBM with *M205* on a Cyclo to remove micromarring on my hard Audi clear. It's the type of marring you can see only under halogens. Although the Surbufs did level the paint nicely, it also scoured it, leaving behind scour marks. I had to follow up with regular foam pads and M105 and I think some PO85RD.



My conclusion is that Surbufs are good for leveling, reducing worse marring like you showed but not great from the micromarring removal/final jeweling.



I also think Surbufs will exhibit their full potential with ROs and rotaries.



I used brand new Surbuf pads, didn't wet them. Perhaps that's why mine didn't shred.
 
Bill D said:
I recently tried the Surbufs a la KBM with *M205* on a Cyclo to remove micromarring on my hard Audi clear. It's the type of marring you can see only under halogens. Although the Surbufs did level the paint nicely, it also scoured it, leaving behind scour marks. I had to follow up with regular foam pads and M105 and I think some PO85RD.



My conclusion is that Surbufs are good for leveling, reducing worse marring like you showed but not great from the micromarring removal/final jeweling.



\.



Do you think I need to use m105 with the foam pads as opposed to malco medium cut for the final polish?
 
If you're trying to get all the marring left behind from the Surbuf and M105, I'd try M205 and the foam pad with KBM. I can't comment on the Malco because I've never used it.
 
You murdered those pads! How much pressure were you using? The thing with surbuf are you should use very little pressure. You only want the fingers to be slightly bent and not fully compressed like a normal foam pad.
 
Mike777G said:
[*]The surbuf pads worked great much better than the cyclo wool pads...





The Cyclo wool pads have their uses, but no surprise that the SurBufs were better.



[*]On most parts of the vehicle I polished twice both times with m105 and surbuf pads,



If you could do it with only two tries then IMO it was cutting very well.



[*]Does anybody know how I could boost the cutting power even further?



I think I'd rather do a few more passes as opposed to upping the aggressiveness.



[*]I seemed to use allot of m105 maybe someone can fill me in on a more conservative method of using the product?



Try reactivating it with water after you think it's "dead", but watch out for sling/mess.



[*]One major issue I had with the combo is the 4" pads rubbed into each other allot which caused them to fall apart. They threw pieces everywhere especially when they were damp. I don't even know if the pads are usable anymore after the detail.





The Cyclo does rub the two pads together a bit no matter what, but if you're *REALLY* careful about centering them on the backing plates maybe you can mitigate it a little.



Nice job, that turned out great.
 
You murdered those pads! How much pressure were you using? The thing with surbuf are you should use very little pressure. You only want the fingers to be slightly bent and not fully compressed like a normal foam pad.



I used quite a bit of pressure I will try easing up and see if it helps.



Try reactivating it with water after you think it's "dead", but watch out for sling/mess.

The only thing that concerns me about that is the pads shred terribly when damp.



I will be trying this again on a black car which should be easier to see whats going on and put all these tips into play.

I think my polishing will go as follows let me know if you think it should be modified.

1. Surbuf and 105 leveling 2-4 times as needed do reduce major swirling and larger defects.

2. Malco medium with orange pads for final polishing (any idea on how many passes?)

3. Degrease and wash

4. wax





Thanks for all the feedback!
 
Mike777G- I don't know from the Malco, but I think you have a good enough handle on this stuff to be able to work it out OK.
 
I have some Subuf pads on the way, which I am going to use with my PC. Not going to use M105, as I don't use Meg's polishes anymore (D151 the exception). I'll be using Menz SIP or GTechniq P1.
 
Menzerna ought to work really nice. Its' what I used to ultimately finish off but I don't exclude it from the IPA wipedown.
 
Bill D said:
Menzerna ought to work really nice. Its' what I used to ultimately finish off but I don't exclude it from the IPA wipedown.



I don't find the need for IPA wipedowns, as they are water based. So I just use water.
 
Mike777G said:
I used quite a bit of pressure I will try easing up and see if it helps.





The only thing that concerns me about that is the pads shred terribly when damp.



I will be trying this again on a black car which should be easier to see whats going on and put all these tips into play.

I think my polishing will go as follows let me know if you think it should be modified.

1. Surbuf and 105 leveling 2-4 times as needed do reduce major swirling and larger defects.

2. Malco medium with orange pads for final polishing (any idea on how many passes?)

3. Degrease and wash

4. wax





Thanks for all the feedback!



I dont know how heavy the cyclo is but with a DA, the weight of the machine and a slight touch more pressure is all that is needed. Work M105 like you normally would and when it starts to dry out mist a little water on the panel and rework the polish.
 
lasthope05 said:
The thing with surbuf are you should use very little pressure. You only want the fingers to be slightly bent and not fully compressed like a normal foam pad.



That's a very good point :xyxthumbs



With the Cyclo, I'd be thinking about even pressure (between the forward handle and the rear grip) and I woudn't be applying much, if any additional pressure over the weight of the machine...at least not to start.
 
I will be doing a black sl500 next week with the same combo but with more steps and with the helpful tips in mind. I will probably do another short write up to show you all how she goes. Thanks for the tips!
 
Make sure you are keeping the pads clean. Brush them off and used compressed air if you have it often. Once the fingers get "matted down" the pads need cleaned.



One or two drops of m105 on each pad.

Spread onto paint and mist a little water.

Turn on machine and polish with very low pressure.

Once the polish starts to dry, spritz more water and continue to polish. The water brings the polish back out of the pad to the paints surface.

If needed to remove deeper defects, you can keep on spritzing more water without adding more polish.



As noted above low pressure and keeping the pads clean is the key.
 
gmblack3 said:
Make sure you are keeping the pads clean. Brush them off and used compressed air if you have it often. Once the fingers get "matted down" the pads need cleaned.



One or two drops of m105 on each pad.

Spread onto paint and mist a little water.

Turn on machine and polish with very low pressure.

Once the polish starts to dry, spritz more water and continue to polish. The water brings the polish back out of the pad to the paints surface.

If needed to remove deeper defects, you can keep on spritzing more water without adding more polish.



As noted above low pressure and keeping the pads clean is the key.



Thanks Bryan I can't wait to try again.
 
Tried the Surbuf with Menz SIP. Worked great! Advice...clean the pad first



I used my PC7424 on speed 5, did a few passes with SIP (used 4-5 drops per section, an a little spritz of water). I took the advice of another detailer and used quite a lot of pressure and very slow arm speed. All the defects where gone, including a scratch that had eluded my efforts before. Paint looked somewhat dull after, but SIP doesn't leave a high gloss. Then I followed up with Dodo Juice Lime Prime on a black / grey LC CCS pad. Paint gloss instantly returned. The applied a layer of Dodo Juice SN wax. I'll be applying a second coat later.



I cleaned the Surbuf after each section, I found compressed air at 40psi wasn't doing it and rather than fire up the compressor, went for a brush, worked well. Then after I was done, wash with dish soap (as per instructions) and left to dry.
 
I cleaned the Surbuf after each section, I found compressed air at 40psi wasn't doing it and rather than fire up the compressor, went for a brush, worked well. Then after I was done, wash with dish soap (as per instructions) and left to dry.



Yeah I don't have a compressor either that brush technique sounds like a nice alternative.
 
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