Csl bs exov3

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Dwhite0960

New member
I am looking into coating my wife`s car once I do my spring time light polish session here in a couple months. I think I have narrowed my coating down to the g technique line as they seem fair priced with awesome performance and ratings. I know they just released the new exo and I am wondering if anyone had experience with it vs csl. I am not interested in doing the csl topped with exo. I will top off any coating I use with the appropriate product however. Any information is greatly appreciated
 
I just got some EXOv3. I haven`t used it yet. I have used CSL, EXOv2, and those two together. I would recommend CSL. It seems to be a little more scratch resistance and better durability. As far as hydrophobic properties both will do a great job. You might check with Zach McGovern I know he was planning on trying it out.
 
512detail aka Brandt might be messing with this soon I would think. I know with v2 it`s unstoppable according to his reviews and testing.


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Dwhite0960 said:
I am looking into coating my wife`s car once I do my spring time light polish session here in a couple months. I think I have narrowed my coating down to the g technique line as they seem fair priced with awesome performance and ratings. I know they just released the new exo and I am wondering if anyone had experience with it vs csl. I am not interested in doing the csl topped with exo. I will top off any coating I use with the appropriate product however. Any information is greatly appreciated
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MattPersman said:
512detail aka Brandt might be messing with this soon I would think. I know with v2 it`s unstoppable according to his reviews and testing.


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http://www.autopia.org/forums/detailing-product-reviews/185517-holy-sheet-exo-csl-csl-exo-longevity-test.html?highlight=holy+sheet

http://www.autopia.org/forums/detailing-product-reviews/186835-csl-exov3-water-behavior-testing-part1.html?highlight=csl+plus+exov2

I was able to observe a stronger darkening effect of v3 on top of csl (over v2 on top of csl) - as they are RIGHT next to each other on a black panel


late edit: I just realized I read your op wrong and you don`t want to top the csl...if that`s the case you need to get some CSL and c2v3, mix it according to gtech`s application instructions and use that

In my testing the CSL needed a decontamination wash at 5 months already.

I know you say not interested but what if I told you nothing I have tried to top the CSL + EXO with has stuck, NOTHING, no gloss enhancer I have found will stick to that combo.. talk about not having to do anything and easy maintenance!

I put zirkon on top of it, it looks a little better but does not perform any differently, if anything it beads and sheets a little slower now (but it`ll probably wash off with the next 2bm wash)
 
Dwhite0960 said:
I must say the thread and performance of the csl and exo is pretty impressive and a great selling tool
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yea, everybody calls about it...but nobody wants to pay to play :)


It`s so ridiculously easy to wash and keep clean too

I don`t actually offer EXO unless its on top of CSL
 
Thanks for the info looks like I`ll be topping the csl after all lol. I don`t mind swinging the extra bucks. I didn`t expect it to really make much difference but you have showed me the light
 
Dwhite0960 said:
Thanks for the info looks like I`ll be topping the csl after all lol. I don`t mind swinging the extra bucks. I didn`t expect it to really make much difference but you have showed me the light
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its fascinating to me to see over the past 5+ months how each product CSL and EXOv2 play independently and simultaneously how they play together on another section

I haven`t been able to observe much difference in exo v2 vs v3 as a topper for CSL except that my v3 topper side is darker than my v2 topper side .. I was afraid the water activity would not be the same but it seems to be almost identical
 
and if you`re applying it yourself,, yea its a no brainer to pony up the extra $50 or so for v3 and top that...but I can`t get a consumer to pony up for the $ a coating like that would cost them.
if you do the combo, which I believe is called CSL Black , don`t even bother with toppers .... even car pro ech20 as a qd will hurt the beading

I couldn`t keep high gloss on there for more than one wash, rapid wax came off after one wash, I just put zirkon on there and I bet it goes off with my next wash as well

buy a gallon of spray and wipe and use that as a QD (or the new mckees RW)
 
512detail said:
and if you`re applying it yourself,, yea its a no brainer to pony up the extra $50 or so for v3 and top that...but I can`t get a consumer to pony up for the $ a coating like that would cost them.
if you do the combo, which I believe is called CSL Black , don`t even bother with toppers .... even car pro ech20 as a qd will hurt the beading

I couldn`t keep high gloss on there for more than one wash, rapid wax came off after one wash, I just put zirkon on there and I bet it goes off with my next wash as well

buy a gallon of spray and wipe and use that as a QD (or the new mckees RW)
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Thanks for all the information it really helps me out a bunch. Depending on how this goes I might start offering it as a service, I just do a few side work jobs so Uncle Sam won`t break me further. I just got into true detailing around a year ago and am really enjoying it greatly.
 
Dwhite0960 said:
Thanks for all the information it really helps me out a bunch. Depending on how this goes I might start offering it as a service, I just do a few side work jobs so Uncle Sam won`t break me further. I just got into true detailing around a year ago and am really enjoying it greatly.
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better price it accordingly if you do it for $

as far as application I strongly recommend an applicator block with suede cloth over it

and if you don`t soak the micros or wash them within 2 hours you might as well toss them because they`re never gonna hold water again after that unless you soak them immediately after using and/or wash quickly afterwards
 
512detail said:
better price it accordingly if you do it for $

as far as application I strongly recommend an applicator block with suede cloth over it

and if you don`t soak the micros or wash them within 2 hours you might as well toss them because they`re never gonna hold water again after that unless you soak them immediately after using and/or wash quickly afterwards
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i will be doing it much cheaper than what it`s worth I`m sure. I would guess around 600 is what I`ll get including the detail and polish stages would be a stretch for me. I will have to crunch some numbers and go from there. I plan on buying some cheaper micros to use on the coating removal, I`m worried I will destroy a high dollar towel otherwise. I have tested these towels on a fresh polish job with good results so far. Is there any particular block and suede you reccomend over others
 
Dwhite0960 said:
i will be doing it much cheaper than what it`s worth I`m sure. I would guess around 600 is what I`ll get including the detail and polish stages would be a stretch for me. I will have to crunch some numbers and go from there. I plan on buying some cheaper micros to use on the coating removal, I`m worried I will destroy a high dollar towel otherwise. I have tested these towels on a fresh polish job with good results so far. Is there any particular block and suede you reccomend over others
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the towel GTECH uses is a 300 (or 320 gsm) 80/20 blend

I ordered some of the edgeless polishing cloths from AG on sale recently to see if they will be ok for coating removal because I want to just toss the towels or soak them, wash them and then use them once for nasty duty like wheels etc and then toss them (or Ron them- as I`m still trying to get that to catch on-haha)

as far as the applicator blocks I`m sure any would work...I like the carpro ones because they have the slits in them to put the edge of the suede cloth in- I`ve never used any other applicator block so all i`d say is check to see that it has the slits so you can put the suede cloth into the bock and not worry about having to rubber band it or make sure that you don`t drop it

the main difference I noticed with using exo v3 vs v2 (when on top of CSL) is that v3 has a much longer working time and spreads much further than v2 does IME, which I touched on in one of the aforementioned threads on the like
 
i`m actually about to do another two panels on my car with CSL + EXOv3 as I don`t want the opened bottles to go bad (at least that`s how I`m rationalizing it)...so I`ll see if I can take any mental notes and provide more user experience on my current thread (where the new ones are on my car)
 
512detail said:
i`m actually about to do another two panels on my car with CSL + EXOv3 as I don`t want the opened bottles to go bad (at least that`s how I`m rationalizing it)...so I`ll see if I can take any mental notes and provide more user experience on my current thread (where the new ones are on my car)
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Sounds awesome thanks again for the wealth of good quailty info.
 
Brandt how did you know the topper was not sticking to the coating? Could you see it pile up? I`ve never seen this on a coating. The closest thing that I can picture is when my windshield wipers scrape off Wolfgang Perfekt Vision off of my coated windshield. Is it something like that? Damn that is slick!
 
rlmccarty2000 said:
Brandt how did you know the topper was not sticking to the coating? Could you see it pile up? I`ve never seen this on a coating. The closest thing that I can picture is when my windshield wipers scrape off Wolfgang Perfekt Vision off of my coated windshield. Is it something like that? Damn that is slick!
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if it`s still there after a wash its not doing anything
I think it just washes off
it definitely does not stick to exov2, the exov2 side and the csl+exov2 side shed all water behavior effect after a wash with a ph neutral shampoo
I may be wrong but the diminished beading after one wash does not lie, it says something at least
I`d say it sticks to the CSL but not the EXO
I really think exo as a top layer on csl is all you`d need with that combo
no sense in wasting money on any fancy toppers
hell, even when I used ech20 as a qd it diminished the beading effect of the csl+exo a little bit compared to just those two alone

CSL+ c2v3 does almost the same thing as CSL+EXOv2 but not for as long and it doesn`t repel water as ruthlessly as csl+exov2

you`d really have to do the same test I did on my hood and drive in the rain and watch it the same way I have over the past 5+ months...it`s literally night and day difference when you add them together compared to them separately

the combo side was still beading like crazy on top of a dirty surface uncleaned for over a month while the other two seperately were overwhelmed with the hood`s filth

if I can find a single coating that behaves like this- I`d be happy to give it a go as well, still got some real estate left to test on

and with v3 on top of csl, you have a 7h coating on top of a 9h coating so that`s not too bad,, I think exov2 was 2 or 3h rating
 
Thanks a lot Brandt, now I am going to have to skip fishing for a whole weekend this spring to spend 2 days polishing my whole truck and putting CSL and ExoV3 on it. I figure it should pay that time back as year goes on in a lot quicker and less frequent cleanings though.
 
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