CRspotless Group Discount

M

marzen

New member
Hey Guys! I spoke with Donna at CRspotless.com and was told that she can give us a 10% discount on their DI water system instead of the 5% that Autopians get. We need 10 people together from here and other forums. I get the list and send it to Donna. We simply order directly through Donna and if you are on the list, then you get 10% off. Please only sign up if you are 100% sure in purchasing. I'd like to have a list by May 12,2006.
 
Is that 10% of any system or just certain ones? I'm on the fence about switching to the CRSpotless system from the one I'm using now supplied by a local DI-Water company.
 
I have spoken with Donna a couple of weeks ago and it seems like 10% off any DI system. In regards to the filter, I am not sure but I will find out for you.



The Autopian discount as I stated may be incorrect. I was under the assumption that this forum is the mecca of detailers and detailing enthusiast and thus appropriately should have this discount. Anyways, I will forward all inquiries to CRSpotless by Monday.



If you guys have other questions, just post them here and I will try to get you answers before the deadline, May 12.



Thanks.
 
Here is an update on this group buy.



www.CRspotless.com



This as you know is a system that produces Deionized water. It filters salts and other impurities that may lead to water spots. Wash your car and leave it to dry under the sun and not have worries getting water spots. Guaranteed as stated on their wepsite. There are systems available for every use and budget. For more information please check the website.



I have spoken with the folks at CRspotless and to reiterate here is what they are willing to offer if we get 10 people here and from other forums listed below.



1) Ten percent off any of their DIwater system, again just the system as a whole.



2) Autopia, PorscheCCA, BMWCCA, Harley Davidson, Roadfly all get 5% off total purchase. This includes filters and cartridges. This 5% is good for purchases made anytime and beyond this qroup buy's time frame.



Hope this helps. :bigups
 
100 gallons isn't bad if you're not wasting water. Using a pressure washer (as in one of the videos on the site) reduces water usage a good bit. Although if you do a lot, I can see how it can get expensive. Time is money and I know I'd like to now have to worry so much about drying the car/inducing marring. I think this unit definitely has a place in anyone's no-marring wash regimen.



Pre-discount pricing:

100 gallon unit (wall mount):

$1.90/gal initial price including system (100gal) / $1.71/gal after 10% discount

$0.32/gal refill 8-pk cartridges (400gal) / $0.30/gal after 5% discount

900 gallons price: $443 / $411



100 gallon unit (rolling cart):

$2.30/gal initial price including system (100gal) / $2.07/gal after 10% discount

$0.32/gal refill 8-pk cartridges (400gal) / $0.30/gal after 5% discount

900 gallons price: $484 / $447



300 gallon unit:

$1.03/gal initial price including system (300gal) / $0.93/gal after 10% discount

$0.29/gal refill 4-pk cartridges (600gal) / $0.27/gal after 5% discount

900 gallons price: $482 / $442



edit: I ran a bunch of numbers in excel and the cheapest to operate is, of course, the 300 gallon. The smaller ones will ever reach the per gallon price of the large one, but at 2100 gallons the cost/gal of the wall mount matches that of the largest unit ($0.37/gal discount including initial unit cost). From there on out, the price/gal is around $0.32-$0.37/gal (discount including initial unit cost) until you get into massive gallon amount (5000+).



Has anyone used any of the less-expensive water softening systems like the kits Autogeek sells?
 
-Lebowski- said:
Man you only get 100 gallons of the small system, thats not much for almost $200.
Click to expand...





The most common TDS range on municipally treated city water is 200 - 400 ppm, but there are areas where it can be siginificantly higher. The 100 gallon DI system is based on an estimated TDS of 350 ppm (Chuck @ CRS) and your filter consumption will vary based on your input water's current state (pH, total dissolved solids, dissolved minerals, etc.). So the lower the TDS in your water, the longer the DI filter will last.



Probably the most expensive part of a DI system is the filter resin. It is usually composed of an anion/cation mixed resin bed that costs ~ $9/lb.
 
chml17l said:
The most common TDS range on municipally treated city water is 200 - 400 ppm, but there are areas where it can be siginificantly higher. The 100 gallon DI system is based on an estimated TDS of 350 ppm (Chuck @ CRS) and your filter consumption will vary based on your input water's current state (pH, total dissolved solids, dissolved minerals, etc.). So the lower the TDS in your water, the longer the DI filter will last.



Probably the most expensive part of a DI system is the filter resin. It is usually composed of an anion/cation mixed resin bed that costs ~ $9/lb.
Click to expand...



Is there a simple inexpensive test that can be run on your water to see where your water comes in? I mean, if I've got 700ppm TDS I'd only be getting about 50 gallons out of each filter set, making the cost/gallon double.
 
The folks at Cr Spotless are good people but I've found that I can save money by purchasing my replacement resin from this company: http://www.kfswater.com/Resins/Resins.asp

The resin is the MB-1 and you get about a third more resin for the same price as purchasing it from CR Spotless. You don't have to buy replacement canisters. Just rinse out the ones that come with the unit and refill with your purchased resin. I've already purchased three times from this company and they're also good people to work with.
 
animes2k said:
Is there a simple inexpensive test that can be run on your water to see where your water comes in? I mean, if I've got 700ppm TDS I'd only be getting about 50 gallons out of each filter set, making the cost/gallon double.
Click to expand...



You can buy a simple TDS meter to test your water. Note--I just googled this page and I don't endorse or recommend the quality of this meter, but if you wanted to do a quick check of your water it would be a relatively inexpensive and easy way to find out. http://www.waterfiltersonline.com/water-tests.asp



That same link also has a home water test kit that checks-- Iron Hardness Copper Nitrates Nitrites Chlorine pH Alkalinity for $15.



Or, you can ask your local water authority. They may give you your water hardness in grains/gallon, so then 17 PPM of TDS ~= 1 grain of hardness.
 
If they definitively solve the spotting problems that they seem to be having now, you can count me in.



Ive been eyeing the system for a while and up until recently, never heard a bad word about it so hopefully they've located the problem and solved it.
 
Mike,



To open the canister all you have to do is unscrew the end cap, empty spent resin in a plastic garbage bag, rinse the canister with fresh water, and replace canister with new resin and re- screw end cap and put back in filter housing. It's a very straight forward procedure.



Mark
 
Mark Waldron said:
Mike,



To open the canister all you have to do is unscrew the end cap, empty spent resin in a plastic garbage bag, rinse the canister with fresh water, and replace canister with new resin and re- screw end cap and put back in filter housing. It's a very straight forward procedure.



Mark
Click to expand...



Mark,

How long does a canister last you ?

How many cars, or how many gallons before you need to replace would be helpful.



So. you get some MB-1 product, plus a canister from the company and your set ?

Is there a canister # you particularly favor ?



Thanks.
 
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