Critique Needed....

M

machboy

New member
Hey fellas, I've just started detailing on the side and have a bunch of cars lined up.

I was wondering if you pros could go over my process and see if anything i'm doing isn't the most efficient or yield the best results in my limited time with the vehicle. (hope that makes sense..lol)



Exterior:

Wash with Gold Class

Clay with Mother's

Rewash

#83 (if lots of correction is needed)

#80 (if minor correction is needed) *side note... I have Mother's Power Polish..but not sure what step it would replace.

AIO

KSG (unsure about)

NB (for darker paints ?)

Mother's Reflections (for lighter paints with flake?)



Tires and Interior is easier and am not worried about.

I'm trying to go for the best look in least amount of time. Without cutting corners of course.

I have NXT as well but it never lasted more than a month for me in this florida weather.



Thank you very much for any suggestions as i value your opinions greatly.



- Scott
 
Don't rewash after claying. Use the suds already on the car from washing as lube (and if there isn't enough, mix a spray bottle with soap and water) and clay. That way you basically save yourself a wash.



Mothers PowerPolish, from what I have researched, can fill in for DACP when used with a cutting (yellow lake country) pad and fill in for #80 with a polishing pad (white LC). According to Forrest @mothers.com, MPP even with a cutting pad leaves no hazing or micromarring, so you could go straight to AIO after polishing (although you'll get more gloss if you go over it again with a white pad or with #80).



I have zero experience and little knowledge about the LSPs, so I can't speak for them. But I have heard Mothers Reflections gives a warm, carnauba-like look, so it would be suitable for darks and solids.
 
I would offer a sealant as an upgrade for like $20 or so (depending upon your customer base). Also I wouldn't use Klasse SG unless they paid even more for that, because it is a little more of a pain than other products. Other than that I think the actual process looks good.
 
Pretty much what everyone else said. Klasse SG should be skipped totally, AIO is optional. I'd probably save the AIO for paint cleaning jobs (oxidized paint).



I'd also skip washing twice. Wash the car, then use soap suds as a lube for clay, then rinse. Saves time.



Other than that... Looks good!
 
HomicidalSloth said:
I'd probably save the AIO for paint cleaning jobs (oxidized paint).
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#83 DACP via rotary of PC will easily take care of oxidized paint. Skip the AIO unless you want to achieve a "hard edged" look to the paint or you're going to top it with a carnauba.



Btw, you didn't mention if you were using the rotary or the PC or if you're working alone or with a team.



Rotary is the way to go for speed but you'll probably need to use the PC to make sure holograms left by the rotary are cleaned up. Not all of us has Sean's rotary skills (:bow).
 
Black240SX said:
Shouldn't you rinse after washing to get the loosened dirt off, before claying?
Click to expand...



Yeah, that's what I meant, sorry. Wash with suds from bucket, rinse off car, then use your bucket of soap suds as a lube isntead of a different product, then rinse again.
 
wow some great input. Man you guys rock.



OK to answer some questions.

It is just me not a team.

And i use a PC not a rotary.



Great advice on the clay...saved me some serious time there. :2thumbs:





OK so it looks like i can drop the entire Klasse line. So what would i use after #80? Just go straight to my LSP?



It would be wash,clay,rinse,#80,LSP (going to just use the Reflections Line since it is cheaper and otc) keeping the NB for personal use.



#80 is a glaze and MPP isn't so #80 is more of a two step product correct? - polishes and glazes.
 
In my process I use



maxi suds II for a wash

mothers clay

rinse

ssr2 if moderate scratches or for most any finish. Or ssr 2.5 or 3 for anything worse.

Natty's Blue



I havent had any complaints and get a real nice wet look when done right.
 
If your thinking of doing this professionally/semi professionally, a rotary and the skills to use it are going to be needed. The PC just takes too long to remove defects, even more if its a hard paint. I would also think about getting a foam gun also. Using that will speed up your washing times by a good amount.
 
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