creating depth and wetness

W

widyhs

New member
Hi there I am a regular user of autopia and have come across many discussions on nuba over sealant. I just recently bought a black s550 and went through with menz nano on pc affter claying. The car was treated to swisvax cleaner fluid before applying concorso.



I noticed the car has depth but lacking in wetness. There was no shimmer and slickness to the paint. So I took out my Souveran paste wax and applied it on the body. It is showing better depth but still lacking in wtness. Put next to a black 3 years old bimmer, the bimmer looked like it is a darker black with better reflection even though there are fine swirls on the bimmer.



So, today I found out that topping a sealant over wax will give the paint a pop. I did tried with a metallic car and it does pop the silver speckles. Will the same idea work on a flat black paint?



TIA for the recommendations. I was thinking Jetseal over either Swissvax Concorso or Souveran cleaned off by Souveran liquid.
 
Flat black? seriously the only way to make that shine is to spray clearcoat on it. But it's flat for a reason. A good quality cleaner wax can give it a decent semigloss though.
 
widyhs said:
So, today I found out that topping a sealant over wax will give the paint a pop. I did tried with a metallic car and it does pop the silver speckles. Will the same idea work on a flat black paint?
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What does "topping a sealant over wax" mean? Topping a sealant means you applied the sealant first. But, then you said "sealant over wax" which means you applied the wax first??? Just a little confused.

Generally, applying a nuba "on top of" a coat of sealant works very well. However, the same can't be said for the other way around. Applying the nuba first, then applying a coat of sealant usually ends up as one big streaky mess as the sealant will refuse to bond the the nuba. Of course, there are a few exceptions to this rule.
 
mborner said:
What does "topping a sealant over wax" mean? Topping a sealant means you applied the sealant first. But, then you said "sealant over wax" which means you applied the wax first??? Just a little confused.

Generally, applying a nuba "on top of" a coat of sealant works very well. However, the same can't be said for the other way around. Applying the nuba first, then applying a coat of sealant usually ends up as one big streaky mess as the sealant will refuse to bond the the nuba. Of course, there are a few exceptions to this rule.
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Sorry, I meant wax on top of sealant. I was thinking of stripping off the wax and reapply with sealant first. Will sealant by itself create the shine that is normally seen on metallic cars? Dont feel like going over the entire process if the results are not going to be significantly better.
 
DWG has no fillers, it adds a great wet look, it has a little protection to it. You can use it below or on top of sealants or waxes. There was a pic on here somewhere with a gray car with DWG and UPGP a few layers of each I believe and it looked great. You have Swissvax Im sure DWG then the Swissvax would look great, or you can top the Swissvax with DWG or sandwich the Swissvax with DWG.
 
Keep in mind that black isn't just black, it's look will vary across certain manufacturers. BMW black will have a very different look than say, Corvette black (I know that isn't what we are dealing with here, but trying to make a point).
 
How many washes would DWG last through? I heard it disappeared quickly, and was used mostly for show.
 
it'll last one or two washes if used on top of your lsp. i layer mine under the lsp and have better results this way. for a show i would consider putting a layer on top.
 
Here is what I would do. Start over. (1) Use Men polish PO85RD with a finihing pad.

(2) Use a glaze RMG, Meg #7, or Danses wet glaze X 2....... (3) Pin. Sover. X 2 Apply to whole car prior to removing.



Prior to starting take 1 oz. of Opti inst. det OID put in a 16 oz prayer and fill it 1/2 full with water. Place in frezzer Without sprayer till frozen. Take it out and fill the rest of the way with water. Put in microwave for 30-40 seconds. Insert spray head in bottle. Shake you'll have a cold mix of OID.



Use this to help remove wax by misting surface.



If this doesn't work nothing will. I know you think I'm nuts, thats ok.....
 
wascallyrabbit said:
it'll last one or two washes if used on top of your lsp. i layer mine under the lsp and have better results this way. for a show i would consider putting a layer on top.
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Not to hi-jack this thread, but if I had 1 coat of DWG over a freshly polished paint and then applied UPGPx2 and then DWG over the UPGP, how would I know when the last coat of DWG has worn out? By that I mean the UPGP and DWG appearance is about the same the the beading when wet is about the same. When the DWG truly wears out wouldn't the UPGP still be beading water? I so, how can you tell if the UPGP or the DWG is beading the water? This has always been on my mind when reading other posts saying that the LSP has worn out. If only clean paint is under the LSP I can see how you would be able to tell, but if you have a sealant or glaze under the LSP would that not give you protection and appearance?
 
"glaze under the LSP would that not give you protection and appearance?" Yes...It would. PO85RD, RMG, PSouveran is a winner.
 
MDRX8 said:
"glaze under the LSP would that not give you protection and appearance?" Yes...It would. PO85RD, RMG, PSouveran is a winner.
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I agree, so is the beading from the glaze or from the LSP? If the lsp has worn out wouldn't the glaze still bead? So how do you know that the LSP is gone?
 
if you have a machine i would use:

CG Wet Mirror Finish with black pad

CG Jet Seal

and top it off with Pete's 53



i have used that on many a black car and gotten unbelievable results.
 
MDRX8 said:
Prior to starting take 1 oz. of Opti inst. det OID put in a 16 oz prayer and fill it 1/2 full with water. Place in frezzer Without sprayer till frozen. Take it out and fill the rest of the way with water. Put in microwave for 30-40 seconds. Insert spray head in bottle. Shake you'll have a cold mix of OID.
Click to expand...



What's with the freezing bit? Wouldn't it be simpler just to put it in the fridge? 40 degrees should be just as cold as your "thawed" solution. Plenty of people refrigerate their QD, but I haven't heard of the freezing. :nixweiss
 
ok sorry for sounding ignorant, but why would you chill your QD? i place my vodka in the freeze, but now my QD as well?? my wife is gonna kill me
 
MDRX8 said:
Here is what I would do. Start over. (1) Use Men polish PO85RD with a finihing pad.

(2) Use a glaze RMG, Meg #7, or Danses wet glaze X 2....... (3) Pin. Sover. X 2 Apply to whole car prior to removing.



Prior to starting take 1 oz. of Opti inst. det OID put in a 16 oz prayer and fill it 1/2 full with water. Place in frezzer Without sprayer till frozen. Take it out and fill the rest of the way with water. Put in microwave for 30-40 seconds. Insert spray head in bottle. Shake you'll have a cold mix of OID.



Use this to help remove wax by misting surface.



If this doesn't work nothing will. I know you think I'm nuts, thats ok.....
Click to expand...







This would be the best route to start fresh. I would say you can stick with your current wax unless you have others on hand. I have not tried the spit shine yet but I plan on it next time I use carnauba.



ADVS1 you chill the QD or you can use distilled water to mist the wax so it will harden and cure instantly. Atleast this is what I have learned by reading so if I am wrong guys please correct me.

Oh and Grey Goose in the freezer FTW :xyxthumbs
 
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