couple waxing question

xinkid

New member
I was preparing my car for an upcoming company car show. When I was applying a 3rd layer of 476S to the hood (previous two layers applied over 2 days a week ago), I think tried to spread it *too* thin. I'm inexperienced with this wax by the way. What I really did was I stuck the edges of a 4" finishing pad into the tin can to scrub some wax onto it. Then I applied it to a fender using the PC and proceded to try to continue to apply what's left on the pad to the hood.



But, I saw basically nothing going onto the paint except an occasional half circle here and there.. But I found that if I tilt the PC so the edge of the pad has more pressure or press it harder flat onto the paint, I'll get more visible half circles of wax onto the paint. I was REALLY trying to apply a thin coat because the first time I applied by hand, it was a bear to remove some of the initial thick spots. I didn't do this to the whole hood by the way. When it eventually became impossible to put further visible wax by pressing, I put more wax onto the pad.



Well, the problem is this. After it hazed and got removed, I pulled the car out of the garage only to notice that the color of the hood was extremely uneven. You can actually see the half circles where I pressed onto the paint with the PC. The color was lighter there. I'm thinking what happened is that the pressure plus the 1000 opms of the PC removed the previoius layers of wax AND the #81 that was underneath. The places where the red was darker still had the #81 underneath. Do you think this is possible? I am a little bummed that now I have to repply #81 and start over because I don't think applying more 476S is going to even out the color.



So, how thin are you supposed to apply 476S? I think for me, I'm going to just stick the edges of the 4" pad into the tin can once for every panel. it seemed like I can get good think coats if I first "wipe" the pad across a body panel and then go up and down across to spread evenly what I just wiped onto.



second question is about semi spit-shining. I've read somewhere that if you quicly apply 3 layers of souveran, it's going to look better than 1 layer of souveran because of all the oils in the wax that are now on the paint. But that look won't last very long because the oils will evaporate. I'm thinking about doing this with Natty's Blue the night before the car show. Do you think the oils will stick around for at least 24 hours? :dance
 
Last Q first- That used to be called "concours waxing" and it generally works OK with most waxes. Give it a try and see.



First Q- this sounds like an unfortunate case of everything that *can* go wrong doing so :( Firts off, although I'm a bit of a fanatic about thin applications of LSPs, I don't try for ultra-thin with 476S. That's because 476S is a "hard" wax...it takes a bit of doing to get it from the can onto the pad and then from the pad onto the paint and this "bit of doing" can lead to trouble if you try to "force" the product if you know what I mean (that's what it sounds like you did).



I'd try for a *uniform* application of wax on the pad, not just on the outer edge but on the whole surface of the pad. I put a lot on the pad and then scrape off any excess that wants to come off. Then try to keep the pressure both minimal and uniform when putting the PC to the paint. Remember that even a finishing pad can be pretty aggressive when it's a 4-incher! The sufficient and uniformly distributed wax on the pad is all that keeps it from getting aggressive with regard to what's already there (again, this is what I think happened).



When/if you see the wax isn't going on in smooth, uniform, complete circles- *STOP* and change what you're doing. Better to waste product by putting it on thin (and gentle) than to cause the sort of problems that happened this last time.



Once you get it on the paint, you can continue to "work" it *gently* and thus spread it out over a larger area. This should help eliminate the so-thick-it's-a-PIA issue. Note that this is a bit like your idea to first spread it on the panel and *then* work it.



OTOH, don't work it so long that you end up turning it into some kind of solventy-polishing action. That's what happened the last time. I'd rather struggle to wipe off a too-thick application than redo the whole job ;)



I guess it might be a fine line between my advice to gently spread it out and the hazards of overworking it, but you'll have to find where that line is and try to not stumble over it.



FWIW, I use a MF bonnet to get most of my wax off. That way the machine does most of the work and any too-thick spots are the machine's problem, not mine :D



This is the only time I've heard of this happening, but I can certainly imagine it. You did a good job of explaining what happened and I'm pretty confident I have a good grasp of what went wrong, so see if the above-mentioned changes in technique sound like they might help.
 
Accumulator, thanks for deciphering my post, LOL. I appreciate your advice. Going to try it this weekend and see what happens.
 
I finally got time to redo the hood this weekend.



Yesterday I tried using the 4" finishing pad with #81 on speed 5 and some pressure to try to minimize the amount of polishing the paint has to take. It looked much better under my garage lighting (was raining outside).



But today when I pulled my car out, I saw the unevenness again under the daylight. :(

So I did the hood (again!) with #9 and a 4" polishing pad on speed 4.5 This time the unevenenss really went away after #9. However, I noticed that #9 left the paint a much lighter shade of red than #81. Perhaps #81 darkens paint or maybe it's the 476S. Dont know.. but I went straight to 476S after #9. There were still some unevenness but much less than before. I'm pretty sure it's because of my uneven application.. it's seems really hard to get an even coat of a paste wax.. it seem to go on the paint all at once and then you got nothing left on the pad to spread and will have to go back and get some off the paint. I also applied too thick this time, which is better I guess. When I removed it, I saw that I was wiping off white powdery residue. Oh well.. it's much better now. :)
 
xinkid- Glad to hear it's better but I wish it were *just* the way I think you'd like it...



The #81 (or some other Meg's "pure polish") will leave behind more trade secret oils than the #9, that's why those polishes make it look darker.



But it seems like the somewhat aggressive application of 476S might tend to mess with those oils :think:



A few ideas that come to mind:



Maybe you oughta switch to a larger pad when doing these final steps. It might make it easier to get a uniform finish.



Yeah, in *this* case thicker is better with the 476S.



Maybe you oughta try the wax by hand (shudder regarding the work, but seriously, it's not all *that* bad).
 
Accumulator, I agree. I did apply Natty's Blue by hand yesterday to other parts of the car. It actually felt better than with the PC. The strange thing is I don't remember it being that hard to apply evenly by PC. Yesterday was especially cold in the low 50's. That might have caused the wax to harden rather quickly.
 
xinkid- Yeah, I bet the cold temps would make a big difference with something as hard as 476S. Much as I like doing stuff by machine, that doesn't mean it's the right approach for everybody every time!
 
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